3D printer for O gauge stock

[njee20]

Definitely some fiddling with settings needed, that doesn't look great. I'd up the layer size, no need to go all the way to 0.05 in one go (that's just the default), but you could try 0.03 or something in the middle. You need to increase exposure times as you increase layer sizes. That said I'd say yours is over exposed. Assume it's O gauge? Just trying to get an idea of size. You can definitely get waaaaaay better detail than that!

 

These are N gauge FWIW, the handrails are 0.3mm diameter, printed at 0.05mm layers too:

Untitled by njee20, on Flickr

 

How did you print that on the bed? If you printed it that way (ie open face to the bed) you'll need drain holes to avoid suction warping/destroying the model, that probably explains the poor finish on the base too - you don't want to present a large flat area to the bed, you're fighting gravity. Angle in the Y axis a bit. This is how I orientate the JIAs above, it means all the marks from the supports are on the base, where I don't really care about them and they're easier to remove:

 

JIA Supported by njee20, on Flickr

[MarcD]

What angle are you printing at?  I printed flat last time.

Marc

[njee20]

30-50 degrees depending on the wagon, never ever flat!

[billbedford]

These are about to ship

[njee20]

$10,000 though. Ouch. The Peopoly Phenom L is similar size isn’t it?

[MarcD]

I tried 30 degs both in roll and pitch and these were the results. better than the last go but still not usable let alone sell-able. going to move the angle to 40deg in the morning and see what happens. in the meantime any suggestions will be welcomed!

 

Marc

 

[njee20]

My Saturn turned up yesterday, not had a chance to play yet, but looks like your settings still aren’t right. There’s a lot of distortion there, which suggests inadequate supports, which is leading to warping. 

[MarcD]

The damage is always at the end closest to the plate i was wondering if i lifted it up would that make it work?

 

Marc

[njee20]

One way to find out... if nothing else you’ll learn about what works and what doesn’t. 

 

The temperature having dropped suddenly is playing havoc with my prints, warm your resin before printing, that’ll help. It’s much more viscous at low temperatures. 

[monkeysarefun]

Have you printed out the rook test piece that should be on the USB stick? If not, you really should, it will be a gauge to see if its your settings, the resin temperature , the printer setup, levelling  etc.

Edited September 28, 2020 by monkeysarefun

[njee20]

I'd personally try one of the other resin exposure tests that are out there - the Facebook groups are always full of them! The rook is a bit binary - they print, or they don't! The exposure tests will show you a little bit more. I've still not even plugged my Saturn in, job for this week...

[MarcD]

The rooks are perfect so the problem is a picnic issue.

if I get 30 mins this evening I/m going to have another go with the tal-y-llyn wagon

 

Marc 

[njee20]

That's really positive though, as you can rule out things like levelling, and actually your exposure settings are potentially ok, which points squarely at supports. Are you using Chitubox and the auto supports? Or doing them manually?

[MarcD]

I'm using chitubox and I did use the automatic supports. I printed a chassis for a small NER gunpowder van this afternoon. Some of the supports came away from the plate which caused some damage but usable for me. 

Apart from the slight damage it was the correct shape. It was 6.5mm away from the plate and I increased the diameter of supports at 1mm and an angle of 45deg.

Marc

[njee20]

If supports consistently come away from the plate try upping your base exposure by 5 seconds.

On supports I use the settings from [url=https://www.wargaming3d.com/2018/12/31/the-complete-and-utter-idiots-guide-to-3d-printing-in-resin-for-wargamers]this article[/url], and generally find them very good.

 

I usually use light supports generally, and vary the density to suit the model. 

Edit: sorry, doesn’t like neater links!

Edited October 1, 2020 by njee20

[MarcD]

I have gone for a heavy set of supports this time but I have had to remove some that would have interfered with the model. There was to much movement in the smaller ones for 7mm. There is now a raft under the whole of the model so none of the pads can come off and fall into the tank. In 5 hours I should  have a result, fingers crossed.

Each print is getting better than the last, so I'm going in the right direction.

Marc 

[MarcD]

It looks like I have cracked it. The printer has just finished it's run and I have a North British 1 plank and a chassis for a North Eastern gunpowder van. I'm going to leave them to the morning to clean up but they are looking very crisp from the quick look I have had.

Marc

[MarcD]

We I have cracked even though Mr Cockup did make a little visit. I had taken out some supports on the leading edge an that caused a little bit of sagging on the 1 plank, too much to us it but its my fault for removing supports. They are back on in slightly different orientation and the printer is running again.

 

The powder van chassis was perfect and a lot better than the last one the Shapeways produced.

 

Very silly question I'm using "Washable resin" and I have washed in hot soapy water but it still sticky what am I doing wrong? should I still be using alcohol to clean or is the resin not curing fully?

 

Marc

[njee20]

Water washable, presumably? Do you mean it's still sticky before curing, or after?

 

I've not personally used any of the water washable resins, you certainly can still use alcohol if you want, but warm water should suffice (that being the point after all!). Be wary of making it too hot, you risk distortion of the print.

 

Good job on the succesful print though! On the other hand I appear to have broken my Saturn before even using it! There was a sticker over the LCD saying "remove this before use", I pulled the corner of the film it was attached to and pulled an inch or so, but judging by the amount of resistence it's the actual polariser on the screen, and the screen protector which should have been there was omitted on mine. Bit annoying to say the least. I watched a couple of unboxing videos which definitely have a film I didn't. Have emailed Elegoo, and I'm trying a print, but I'm not sure I fancy my chances on that portion of the screen; may have a Mars-sized print area on my Saturn! 

[MarcD]

Not good.

I haven't cured anything should I be?  If yes and I'm expecting this to be the answer I presume its more UV light or just leaving it out for a week?

 

Marc

[njee20]

Yep, you have to cure the prints - you can use UV lamps or leave them outside in the sun. Given we're coming into winter some sort of UV lamp is probably wise. 2-4 minutes is usually enough with a dedicated lamp.

You can get handheld ones, or use something for drying nails like this, or you can get proper cleaning and curing stations, like the Elegoo Mercury Plus or the Anycubic Wash & Cure. The all in one solutions are great, but designed for the Mars/Photon sized beds, the build plate for the Saturn won't fit in the Mercury Plus, and you may find that the prints won't fit in either if you're maxing out build volume.

[MarcD]

Well that will be a job for Monday. Does it have to be 405nM? or will any UV light do?

 

Marc

[njee20]

Needs to cover that wavelength, but the overwhelming majority do. 
 

interestingly my Saturn prints perfectly, despite having removed a third of the polariser, and it looking pretty knackered now, so I don’t think the screens are all that fragile... I’m intrigued to see what Elegoo say, given I damaged it acting on the instructions of their sticker!

 

FWIW I’ve printed in Anycubic grey, using the stock settings in Chitubox, which I think is 30 second base layers, 3 second normal exposure. 

[njee20]

Minor thread resurrection, but the announcement of the new batch of Heljan 60s has me desperately trying to resist. I figure if I can print some of my wagons then I could do a wagon repair depot or something, with a couple of locos and 5-6 wagons. 

 

To that end I’m going to try upscaling one of my designs to O and seeing if I can get a decent print! I have to split the bodies up, I’m hoping they’ll go back together nicely afterward, I’ve not tried that before. Trying the Drax IIA biomass wagon, because it’s a simple design with nice smooth body sides.
 

I’ve made a couple of tweaks because obviously in O detail will be more obvious. I’ve no idea how you’d normally attach bogies or anything, I’ve gone with M4 threads in the pivots. I’ll print the bogies too, so I figure it doesn’t really matter. Wheels plus some three link couplings on order, eek!

 

Each print uses ~£9 of resin, so not one I want to get wrong. If it works though it should be formidable. ~430mm long!

Watch this space...

 

[woko]

7 hours ago, njee20 said:

Minor thread resurrection, but the announcement of the new batch of Heljan 60s has me desperately trying to resist. I figure if I can print some of my wagons then I could do a wagon repair depot or something, with a couple of locos and 5-6 wagons. 

 

To that end I’m going to try upscaling one of my designs to O and seeing if I can get a decent print! I have to split the bodies up, I’m hoping they’ll go back together nicely afterward, I’ve not tried that before. Trying the Drax IIA biomass wagon, because it’s a simple design with nice smooth body sides.
 

I’ve made a couple of tweaks because obviously in O detail will be more obvious. I’ve no idea how you’d normally attach bogies or anything, I’ve gone with M4 threads in the pivots. I’ll print the bogies too, so I figure it doesn’t really matter. Wheels plus some three link couplings on order, eek!

 

Each print uses ~£9 of resin, so not one I want to get wrong. If it works though it should be formidable. ~430mm long!

Watch this space...

 

Good luck with that dude, be interested to see the results