04 removal from a M7 00 gauge.

[AdeMoore]

04 motor removal to test, I’ve history here Stewart Ingham helped massively with a Jinty I bought 2nd hand here’s another that struggled to run now it won’t !

I want to try the motor out the chassis but can’t seem to see how to get it out!

Thats the culprit, I only want to get it going to move it on. 
Make way for my G6!

Cheers for any assistance.

Ade

Edited December 15, 2020 by AdeMoore
PT

[AdamsRadial]

From memory, the front of the motor has two lugs at the bottom that slide into cutouts in the block hidden behind the leading wheels, you have to do a bit of wiggling to get it going to and fro sideways and upwards at the same time? Mine is packed away and I can't get to it to confirm. Have you looked on the Hornby website for the service sheets?

Edited December 13, 2020 by AdamsRadial

[Steamport Southport]

Lendons are better source. The Hornby site mostly only has newer models.

 

http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/?button=button2&servicesheets=none

 

 

 

Jason

 

 

[Butler Henderson]

Definitely two lugs that slot into the chassis at the front, as the rear fixing bolt has been removed then it should pull out backwards.  The one possibility that might be causing the non removal issue if the bolt was lost and its been glued in place.

Edited December 13, 2020 by Butler Henderson

[Halvarras]

That was my thought BH, when I saw the rear end fixing bolt was missing. It should just pull out backwards as you say, with a bit of wiggling. It shouldn't have been necessary to glue the two lugs in at the front end, but they're not visible.

 

Ade, can you get a small flat-bladed screwdriver in under the mounting lug at the back end and do a bit of levering? Failing that, try same in the small gap visible between the chassis block and the magnet housing, behind the rear wheel. If the motor has been glued in, which looks likely if you obtained the model with the bolt missing, hopefully this should break the bond. The all-metal construction should stand up well to such an attack but don't go at it too hard, and please be sure to avoid injury if it suddenly gives!

[DCB]

The M7 motor is often a tight fit, a good fault, The motor should pull back slightly and then you have to lift the magnet end of it over the cut out for the magnet securing bolt and pull it backwards   The M7 is a nice chassis possibly Triang's best. 

[AdeMoore]

15 hours ago, AdamsRadial said:

From memory, the front of the motor has two lugs at the bottom that slide into cutouts in the block hidden behind the leading wheels, you have to do a bit of wiggling to get it going to and fro sideways and upwards at the same time? Mine is packed away and I can't get to it to confirm. Have you looked on the Hornby website for the service sheets?

 

15 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

Lendons are better source. The Hornby site mostly only has newer models.

 

http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/?button=button2&servicesheets=none

 

 

 

Jason

 

 

 

14 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:

Definitely two lugs that slot into the chassis at the front, as the rear fixing bolt has been removed then it should pull out backwards.  The one possibility that might be causing the non removal issue if the bolt was lost and its been glued in place.

 

13 hours ago, Neil Phillips said:

That was my thought BH, when I saw the rear end fixing bolt was missing. It should just pull out backwards as you say, with a bit of wiggling. It shouldn't have been necessary to glue the two lugs in at the front end, but they're not visible.

 

Ade, can you get a small flat-bladed screwdriver in under the mounting lug at the back end and do a bit of levering? Failing that, try same in the small gap visible between the chassis block and the magnet housing, behind the rear wheel. If the motor has been glued in, which looks likely if you obtained the model with the bolt missing, hopefully this should break the bond. The all-metal construction should stand up well to such an attack but don't go at it too hard, and please be sure to avoid injury if it suddenly gives!

 

13 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

The M7 motor is often a tight fit, a good fault, The motor should pull back slightly and then you have to lift the magnet end of it over the cut out for the magnet securing bolt and pull it backwards   The M7 is a nice chassis possibly Triang's best. 

Thanks all for your swift replies I’ll have a go this evening I was perhaps being to gentle!

cheers.

[AdeMoore]

BTW all taken apart by me so screw was in not glued or anything like that.

[AdeMoore]

 

Was being to soft! Try it tomorrow bit late now to head up to the railway room.

[AdamsRadial]

There's no problem too big that can't be sorted out by a dam good thrashing.

[vikingsmb]

check with lendons, they have a lot of triang spares, and local to me as well which is a bonus  

[AdeMoore]

Thanks both.

well the motor is fine.

 

I metered out the connections all good but should the positive show a connection to the chassis tag after the suppressor?  In my book that’s a short circuit but not sure after a capacitor as such?

which leaves the chassis which is now just 2 pairs of wheels. Don’t think they run that freely so more work there when I check what’s best to do.

Thanks all for the help so far.

Cheers

Ade

Edited December 22, 2020 by AdeMoore
Spelling

[DCB]

Either you mic is very good or that motor is running rough, they sound like that when they have a wire off the commutator.  Does it run slowly and start and run slowly, they should run very slowly off load on a suitable power unit.

[AdeMoore]

1 hour ago, DavidCBroad said:

Either you mic is very good or that motor is running rough, they sound like that when they have a wire off the commutator.  Does it run slowly and start and run slowly, they should run very slowly off load on a suitable power unit.

I think it did David since been returned to the chassis which was clogged up with dirt on further inspection. I have cleaned it up now and runs better.

Next I have to repair the firebox lamp connection one is ok that sits under the spring brush clamp, the other wasn’t sure where it was supposed to go now looking online see it must of come away from the TV suppressor in a previous life so I’ll solder that back on.

Thanks for the comment, thinking about it the Jinty Stewart repaired for me sounds much the same so I assume it’s ok.

Cheers

Ade