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Some of you, especially those modelling 7mm Diesel Hydraulics, will have followed my Class 22 build thread on RMweb3, here:-

http://www.rmweb.co....php?f=8&t=32246

 

To be honest I'm still not keen on the "blog" idea; yes it keeps the writer's own words to the fore, but I for one found all the postings by you chaps on my 22 thread really encouraging, especially when as you may recall, things didn't go too well at times...

So my main place for documenting this kit-build will be here- after all it's what this Sub-forum is for!!!

My Blog "F-Unit's Comedy Soldering Show" can be found on this link, which will have some of this posted across as-and-when...

 

Well thanks for joining me as I pretend to be a proper modeller again and display more Comedy Soldering and a complete inability to do things the easy way...

 

 

Monday 9/11/2009

 

:D :D :D

 

Me is a happy bunny today...

 

Class14A006.jpg

 

Got my Class 14 kit at last... happy0045.gif

 

It comes in a nice stout box which hopefully will hold it when it's built.

There are several sheets of etches and six bags of whitemetal & brass castings...

Class14A010.jpg

Class14A011.jpg

Class14A012.jpg

 

As is usual with O scale loco kits you have to get motor/wheels/gears seperately. The RMweb member who I bought this kit off had got these parts as well, plus a set of 'plunger' pick-ups...

Class14A013.jpg

 

There are 20 pages of instructions and diagrams, which are going to make interesting reading in the next few days, but unfortunately the very first Step is missing from them...

 

...

 

 

...

 

 

...

 

 

...

 

 

...

 

 

...

 

"Step 1: Find space on your Workbench"...

 

Class14A007.jpg

 

<img src='http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_wow.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':icon_wow:' /> <img src='http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_rolleyes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':icon_rolleyes:' /> <img src='http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_redface.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':icon_redface:' />

 

<img src='http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_wave.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':icon_wave:' />

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Good to see you back at the bench (not before it) :rolleyes: and I'm looking forward to the build. I too can't get my head round blogs so I will stick with the old analogue process.

Keep up the good work

Mike

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Lovely stuff - A nice Teddy Bear to cuddle :D

 

I have another in 4mm to do soon. If someone does one in 2mm we could make the set ... the three bears :D

 

Did I miss it - who is the kit manufacturer ?

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Hi Jordan, :D everything looks like it got to you ok... looking forward to watching this one ;) Phill says Its a good way to reduce my backlog of kits ha ha :rolleyes: :rolleyes: says a better way is to get some built (I really must make an effort!!!!) perhaps you might spur me on with this build??? Regards Ross :)

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Did I miss it - who is the kit manufacturer ?

Sorry, yes the kit is by PRMRP as iploffy says...

although my thanks go to Ross on this occasion for doing a very good deal with me :icon_thumbsup2:

 

Thanks for the support so far!!! :icon_wave:

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Sorry, yes the kit is by PRMRP as iploffy says...

although my thanks go to Ross on this occasion for doing a very good deal with me icon_thumbsup2.gif

 

Thanks for the support so far!!! icon_wave.gif

 

 

oops soz missed a P ot of the name biggrin.gif must go and do something less interesting now

 

Ian

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Hello Jordan,

 

Good luck with your build,........erm, I mean clearing the workbench.blink.gif That really is quite ridiculous !. You must spend a lot of your time searching for things. The words `needle` and `haystack` come to mind.

Anyway, keep us posted as you go. Always good to see other peoples work.

 

Regards

 

Ian

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Hi Jordan,

 

Great loco the 14, I (nearly) built one of the Oakville versions some years back and gave up in the end as the errors seemed to be compounding themselves.

 

Good luck with the build, hopefully a better jouney than the 22. Incidently, I hear that JLTRT are bringing out a 43 then a 22 and then a 14 - is it something that you said?wink.gif

 

best wishes

 

Mike

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Good luck with your build,........erm, I mean clearing the workbench.blink.gif That really is quite ridiculous !. You must spend a lot of your time searching for things. The words `needle` and `haystack` come to mind.

 

Not really, Ian... everything I need was all there somewhere... :D

 

Anyway, firstly the workbench got a bit of a tidy...

 

Class14B002.jpg

 

It might still be a bit messy for some tastes, though!!

 

The basic chassis (nickel silver) has been soldered up- two sideframes and three spacers. I have a small magnet (I think it's out of some long-forgotten motor) which is perfectly square, and a great help in keeping things in postion.

 

Class14B003.jpg

 

A tip I've seen is to put rods through the axle holes and put the piece on a grid to check everything's square... looks good to me..??

 

Class14B001.jpg

 

I'm slightly concerned that the wheelbase of this loco is 111mm and if built as planned is rigid. I would like to spring at least one axle, but currently am not too sure how to go about it... any ideas from anyone..?

This is more an area of expertise for builders of Steam locos I'd have thought.

Two issues to overcome would be- a) the connecting rods are all one-piece; and it's suggested that the plunger pick-ups are fitted through the spring casting at the top of the wheel. This would leave little room for vertical movement of the axle whilst still keeping the pick-up in contact with the inside of the wheel rim?

The axle that it's logical to spring, if any, is the right-hand one as looking at the chassis above; the one 'wheel' axle on it's own past the Jackshaft axle.

 

All help gratefully received (yes, already :icon_rolleyes: :icon_razz: :icon_redface: ) !!!

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Incidently, I hear that JLTRT are bringing out a 43 then a 22 and then a 14 - is it something that you said?wink.gif

 

 

 

:icon_rolleyes: yes I heard that too... just typical, isn't it...??? :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mutter: :icon_frustrated:

 

Mindyou, I bet my deal here cost nowhere near as much as any JLTRT Class 14 will...:icon_winker: :icon_razz:

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Hi Jordan

 

There's no need to spring any axles on a wheelbase as short as 111 mm, unless you really want to.....

 

It should get round most curves without difficulty, but I can't see springing helping in that respect in any case. Just make sure there is reasonable sideplay in the centre axle - the minimum consistent with getting round your curves - but not too much or the plunger pick-ups will be tricky to get right.

 

Looking forward to another entertaining narrative - in the nicest possible sense!

 

Richard

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Thanks, Richard. I was thinking of springing more in terms of keeping all wheels in contact with the track, for good pick-up, more than getting round curves, especially as, small as Withyn Reach is, it does have track on inclines...

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Thanks, Richard. I was thinking of springing more in terms of keeping all wheels in contact with the track, for good pick-up, more than getting round curves, especially as, small as Withyn Reach is, it does have track on inclines...

Hi Jordan :icon_wave:

 

I would have thought with enough weight, appropriate gearing & a flywheel fitted motor you should be fine :icon_wink:

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Hello Jordan,

 

ohmy.gif, (takes sharp intake of breath through gritted teeth !). Come , come now gentlemen, are we not giving the wrong impression of how to encourage our newly accredited 7mm modeller of `how to do it` ?.

There are others of greater standing than I who have used fixed axles in the past, but most of us use some form of floating axles whatever the wheelbase.

I would suggest Jordan you cut the coupling rods and form a joint, then fit some sliding axleboxes to the frames. I am happy to help you out here with both the required axleboxes for the two floating axles, and a drawing and instructions of how to go about making jointed rods.

 

My own Mod Hall thread is about to be deposited with some photographs of how I altered the coupling rods etc, slightly different to your quest but it will give you an idea of the work involved. Alternatively, send me the rods and I will joint them for you. I suggest you PM me if you require ?.

 

Other than that, keep up the good work matey !wink.gif

 

Regards

 

Ian

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Hello Jordan,

 

ohmy.gif, (takes sharp intake of breath through gritted teeth !). Come , come now gentlemen, are we not giving the wrong impression of how to encourage our newly accredited 7mm modeller of `how to do it` ?.

 

 

No we are not, Ian. We are merely pointing out there is no necessity to undertake all the extra work. If the track is well laid, and the chassis is constructed square, the loco will run fine, whether fixed or not. (Ducks head below parapet)

 

Yours

 

Richard

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No we are not, Ian. We are merely pointing out there is no necessity to undertake all the extra work. If the track is well laid, and the chassis is constructed square, the loco will run fine, whether fixed or not. (Ducks head below parapet)

 

Yours

 

Richard

 

I would tend to agree with you, given that the track is ok it will run fine rigid. if it is the first coupled loco you have built I would be inclined to keep it simple, otherwise you are going to need to go into hornlock alignment etc

 

However if it were me doing the build i would have made provision for springing and fitted the hornblocks etc,etc before assembling the frames. for the record I spring everything wagons, coaches and locos :lol::lol:

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I would tend to agree with you, given that the track is ok it will run fine rigid. if it is the first coupled loco you have built I would be inclined to keep it simple, otherwise you are going to need to go into hornlock alignment etc

All the advice is most appreciated, but if I can pick up on 28ten's comment here, it IS my first coupled loco build, and with my ability also, KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) would be the way I prefer to proceed.

 

Another thing, which may or may not have been taken into account, is that although this is an 0-6-0 loco, it has four axles... so it isn't quite as simple as springing the centre wheelset...

It will be driven off one of the pair of axles together on one side of the jackshaft axle, therefore to me it looks like the easiest option is to spring the single wheelset at the other end with a joint in the connecting rods at the jackshaft axle (which ends are A and B anyway on a 14, anyone know?). Jointed connecting rods I do think would be a good idea regardless...

I do intend to weight it well, the gear wheel looks enormous so about 40:1 possibly (what ratio is it, Ross, can you remember?), but the motor is a single shaft so can't have a flywheel. I will see how well it runs 'as is' before deciding on whether to replace it or not.

 

Onwards and Upwards....:)

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