Any Question Answered

[justin1985]

On the traction engines etc, I just had a thought that Osborn's Models had been advertising their own range of 3D printed models recently. Sure enough they do both a generic traction engine and a roller.

 

https://www.osbornsmodels.com/arch-laser-a3d0023-n-gauge-traction-engine-unpainted-43445-p.asp

 

I'm not sure they look like that much of an advance over the white metal varieties to be honest. Probably not pushing the boundaries of 3D printing too hard there ... Look at those rivets!

 

I didn't know Scalelink had done a range of cast vehicles? I'll keep an eye out for the bits boxes at shows...

[Steven Draper]

Not sure it is the right post but Just wanted to say a massive thanks to all the 2mm folk I chatted to at Railwells - Lots of support and encouragement while enjoying some fine models

 

So home and enjoyed putting my track sample togeather, think I got the rail the correct way up too.

 

I know I’m speaking to the converted but wow, its lit my fire

Edited August 12, 2018 by Steven Draper

[Wyvern]

I am currently converting a new farish 4f to an approximation of a SR Q class. I just wanted to check whether model strip is able to remove the paint finish from the plastic body shell or whether something else would be more suitable?

[Chris Higgs]

I am currently converting a new farish 4f to an approximation of a SR Q class. I just wanted to check whether model strip is able to remove the paint finish from the plastic body shell or whether something else would be more suitable?

 

Assuming it is a paint finish - a number of Bachmann models these days are moulded in the requisite colour. Not entirely sure whether you really need to strip off the black paint before repainting. And I suspect you will not find too many people that have actually tried.

 

Chris

[Steven Draper]

Thanks for all the help so far - 2 questions have been playing around in my mind. 

1. My little test track section 120mm. - It isn't stuck down, but the track is somewhat wobbly laterally. It looks a bit prototypical via a long lens, but is this just a factor of the short lengths of track and not being attached to a base? If not, how do you get the track pretty wobble free 8^)


2. This might sound a bit odd, but if I wanted to practice making a loco / wagon look finer scale while running it on my small N gauge project prior to building my 2mm project, is it possible to simply adjust the B2B of the 2mm axles (or are they pretty much solid ) or assemble a drop in set using a N B2B gauge ??? 

[Nigelcliffe]

Answer to qu1 - use a ruler to lay the rail against ?  Or any other straight edge. 

 

Answer to qu2 - wagon and coach wheels are a fairly easy slide along the axles, though you run the risk of making them wobbly (risk higher with spoked types, the solid ones and 3-hole are more robust).  BUT, a 2mm wheel tread is too narrow for the specification of N gauge track, so risks falling into the turnout crossing area.  In practise it might work, or it might not, but being "outside the specification" means it cannot be assumed to work.    Better option there might be to try building 2mm wagon kits, but using the 12.25mm "N conversion" axles with Bachmann N wheels on them (supply your own wheels), and then if going full 2mm, replace those axles with proper 2mm ones. 

- Drop-in 2mm diesel wheelsets are solid, really solid, can't be adjusted 

- The conversion wheelsets for recent Farish steamers (eg. Jinty, Pannier) would be adjustable on back-to-back, though suspect you'd have to shorten the axles to get down to an N-gauge back-to-back.  Then, when pulled out there may not be enough axle to ensure a really good fit in the muff holding them together.  And you hit the problem with wheel tread specification mentioned for wagon wheels.

 

 

- Nigel (who makes quite a lot of 2mm wheels for the shops )

[Steven Draper]

Answer to qu1 - use a ruler to lay the rail against ?  Or any other straight edge. 

 

Answer to qu2 - wagon and coach wheels are a fairly easy slide along the axles, though you run the risk of making them wobbly (risk higher with spoked types, the solid ones and 3-hole are more robust).  BUT, a 2mm wheel tread is too narrow for the specification of N gauge track, so risks falling into the turnout crossing area.  In practise it might work, or it might not, but being "outside the specification" means it cannot be assumed to work.    Better option there might be to try building 2mm wagon kits, but using the 12.25mm "N conversion" axles with Bachmann N wheels on them (supply your own wheels), and then if going full 2mm, replace those axles with proper 2mm ones. 

- Drop-in 2mm diesel wheelsets are solid, really solid, can't be adjusted 

- The conversion wheelsets for recent Farish steamers (eg. Jinty, Pannier) would be adjustable on back-to-back, though suspect you'd have to shorten the axles to get down to an N-gauge back-to-back.  Then, when pulled out there may not be enough axle to ensure a really good fit in the muff holding them together.  And you hit the problem with wheel tread specification mentioned for wagon wheels.

 

 

- Nigel (who makes quite a lot of 2mm wheels for the shops )

 

 

Thanks Nigel, that is a really useful explanation regards the wheels 8^) 

 

Some track and a turnout will be ordered soon for a winter test project so I will lay carefully against a ruler or curtain rail curve to see if I can eliminate most of the lateral wobble 8^)

[Donw]

Sounds to me like you are kinking the rail threading it though the easitrac sections. I suggest by pulling the rail though your thumb and finger you can straighten it or create a gentle curve. The end is first treated by taking sharp edges off so it will slide through the chairs. I find holding the chairs onto a flat surface then ease the rail through. Do not bend the rail to align with the chair adjust the chair by pushing the sleeper sidways to meet the rail. You end up with one rail correctly shaped through a section. The other rail can then be slid through. You can fit several sections onto the rail. When It comes to fixing it down I make any final adjustments to the curve before fixing.

 

Don

[Caley Jim]

Using the Easitrac jig makes threading the rail in so much easier as the sleepers are held firmly in line.  I would say that it is well worth purchasing one, even for just a small project.

 

Jim

[Steven Draper]

Thanks - Yes I filled off the sharp edges and it pushed through easily - however nothing was fixed down for construction and the sample track is very short and handled a lot !!  I will purchase a jig for the mini test project 8^)

[chrisveitch]

Does anyone have any great product suggestions or ideas for a stock box to hold a small 2FS collection (or I guess N gauge for that matter)? By "small" I mean 3-4 locos and a dozen wagons or so, which is about all I'll ever be able to manage. I have one of two readymade plastic boxes but none is exactly the right size or has proper foam padding etc. to keep everything safe. I'm happy to accept pointers to existing threads which I've been too lazy to find myself. 

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[justin1985]

I've bought several wooden boxes intended for artists to use as storage - sometimes sold as brush cases, or as cheap art material sets (sometimes in The Works etc.)

 

Depending on the exact dimensions, some suit two layers of 2mm/N stock on their sides by making an insert tray, or stock standing upright on its wheels within the box. I make dividers (and/or trays) using mount board and self adhesive closed cell foam from eBay. Its a little bit of work - but only an evening or so. 

 

I've made up three or four of these now, one for open wagons, one for vans etc etc - but I'm running out of space, and annoyingly it doesn't seem possible to get exactly the same size ones I had before. 

 

There are quite a lot of different designs of artists boxes out there - Amazon looks better than eBay at the moment. It looks like the nice three drawer ones sold for art pencils and pastels etc might be a bit too shallow though.

 

Of the supposedly custom designed N gauge storage boxes, I think the ones people tend to use in the UK all seem to use an open-cell foam which looks a bit suspicious to me in terms of long term stability. I do like the KATO ones for coaches though (same as supplied with their N gauge Eurostar etc) - they have very dense foam pre-cut into coach sized shapes, and from the outside look like a green plastic ringbinder, complete with a card slip case - very professional.

 

One thing I'd never use again, after the theft of Bill Blackburn's wagons from Copenhagen Fields/the MRC, is an aluminium "flight case". Those cases might seem ideal because they're usually designed to protect high-end optics and electronics etc. But for exactly that reason, it turns out they're prime targets for opportunistic thefts - people assuming they'd find high end cameras or audio equipment etc. inside. 

 

Justin

[chrisveitch]

I've bought several wooden boxes intended for artists to use as storage - sometimes sold as brush cases, or as cheap art material sets (sometimes in The Works etc.)

 

Depending on the exact dimensions, some suit two layers of 2mm/N stock on their sides by making an insert tray, or stock standing upright on its wheels within the box. I make dividers (and/or trays) using mount board and self adhesive closed cell foam from eBay. Its a little bit of work - but only an evening or so. 

 

I've made up three or four of these now, one for open wagons, one for vans etc etc - but I'm running out of space, and annoyingly it doesn't seem possible to get exactly the same size ones I had before. 

 

There are quite a lot of different designs of artists boxes out there - Amazon looks better than eBay at the moment. It looks like the nice three drawer ones sold for art pencils and pastels etc might be a bit too shallow though.

 

Of the supposedly custom designed N gauge storage boxes, I think the ones people tend to use in the UK all seem to use an open-cell foam which looks a bit suspicious to me in terms of long term stability. I do like the KATO ones for coaches though (same as supplied with their N gauge Eurostar etc) - they have very dense foam pre-cut into coach sized shapes, and from the outside look like a green plastic ringbinder, complete with a card slip case - very professional.

 

One thing I'd never use again, after the theft of Bill Blackburn's wagons from Copenhagen Fields/the MRC, is an aluminium "flight case". Those cases might seem ideal because they're usually designed to protect high-end optics and electronics etc. But for exactly that reason, it turns out they're prime targets for opportunistic thefts - people assuming they'd find high end cameras or audio equipment etc. inside. 

 

Justin

 

 

Thanks Justin - I'd seen closed cell foam in use but didn't know what it was called, so that's really been useful. Also I'd agree with your views on flight cases - very nice, but a honeypot for opportunists. 

[Caley Jim]

Another useful lining to protect and restrain stock is self adhesive draft-excluder strip which I use to line my cassettes.  The stuff I have is 'Stormguard' brand and is closed cell self adhesive foam with a thin clear plastic (polythene?) outer surface.  This not only removes any risk of small projecting parts snagging on the foam, but also prevents the foam reacting with, and sticking to, the surface of the models.

 

Jim

[richbrummitt]

I really like the ones sold by JB Model World (no connection). They are of a good quality.

 

Edit to add link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/jbsmodelworld I tend to go for the one with 5 long slots (landscape) format and make dividers out of the foam that pulls out to reveal the slots - it cuts easily with a knife/scissors.

Edited August 27, 2018 by richbrummitt

[Nigelcliffe]

I've got a couple of small thin wooden boxes which had a first-life as chocolate boxes (usually from Germany), nice little brass catch to hold them shut.  Can easily have dividers from picture mount board.

 

Or, for the hoarders of ancient stuff that might be useful - the 35mm film canister.  A few of which house small 0-4-0 locos.  

[justin1985]

I really like the ones sold by JB Model World (no connection). They are of a good quality.

 

Edit to add link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/jbsmodelworld I tend to go for the one with 5 long slots (landscape) format and make dividers out of the foam that pulls out to reveal the slots - it cuts easily with a knife/scissors.

These are the ones I've tended to be a bit suspicious of in terms of the foam. The one I got, at least, looks a bit too much like PECO "foam underlay" grade material, to my eyes. (I.e. the stuff that disintegrates after a few years, sometimes sticking to things in the process)

 

I'm not sure how long they've been around, but I wonder whether anyone has noticed any issues with the foam degrading? I'd be happy to be told I'm just paranoid on this!

 

Justin

[PaulCheffus]

These are the ones I've tended to be a bit suspicious of in terms of the foam. The one I got, at least, looks a bit too much like PECO "foam underlay" grade material, to my eyes. (I.e. the stuff that disintegrates after a few years, sometimes sticking to things in the process)

I'm not sure how long they've been around, but I wonder whether anyone has noticed any issues with the foam degrading? I'd be happy to be told I'm just paranoid on this!

Justin

Hi

 

My stock has been stored in the JB Models foam trays for at least the last ten years with no ill effects.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[nick_bastable]

Hi

 

My stock has been stored in the JB Models foam trays for at least the last ten years with no ill effects.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

I have a vague memory that light degrades foam  although to be safe I have lined my JB boxes with acid free tissue 

 

Nick

[PaulCheffus]

I have a vague memory that light degrades foam  although to be safe I have lined my JB boxes with acid free tissue 

 

Nick

Hi

 

Ah mine are in a 12 drawer filing cabinet so they don’t get much light.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Valentin]

Hello,

The only primer I have ever used on models is a 400ml rattle can of black "Acid Etch Primer". The label reads that "[the primer] is ideal for priming difficult metals such as galvanized steel and aluminum etc, as well as ferrous metals"; I successfully used it on brass and nickel-silver but I am not sure if it's suitable to prime white metal (pewter).

Can anyone advise on this?

Thank you,

Edited September 10, 2018 by Valentin

[Caley Jim]

I always just use primer from a rattle can, in fact the footbridge for Dunallander is sitting in front of me in grey primer.  I've just finished cleaning out the slots for the glazing before starting painting the white around the windows.

 

I've found these primers to be perfectly OK on brass, nickel silver and white metal.  On my locos which are in CR goods black livery, that's all I use.

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

I always just use primer from a rattle can, in fact the footbridge for Dunallander is sitting in front of me in grey primer.  I've just finished cleaning out the slots for the glazing before starting painting the white around the windows.

 

I've found these primers to be perfectly OK on brass, nickel silver and white metal.  On my locos which are in CR goods black livery, that's all I use.

 

Jim

 

I have had some issues with the paint finis flaking off on some etched coach sides after I masked and sparayed onto a Halfords primer base. I shall be trying the new Halfords etching primer for my naxt batxh of coaches.

 

Chris

[John57sharp]

I have finally progressed with my 08 Gronk One, and I am now looking to ass cranks and wheel weights. Looking at the photos I have, the counterweights seem to go opposite the cranks, is this generally correct? I can’t think why they should be any other way, but they don’t show up often in photos.

 

Thanks

 

John

[Caley Jim]

I have finally progressed with my 08 Gronk One, and I am now looking to ass cranks and wheel weights. Looking at the photos I have, the counterweights seem to go opposite the cranks, is this generally correct? I can’t think why they should be any other way, but they don’t show up often in photos.

That's how they should generally be as they are there to balance the mass of the cranks and coupling rods.  On the driven axle of a steam loco, however, they may be different as there they also have to balance the mass of the connecting rods, eccentric etc.

 

HTH

 

Jim