Any Question Answered

[Chris Higgs]

Hi Justin

 

Although not the same type of underframe hopefully this shows that the end I think you are referring to isn't bent into a U shape but flat.

 

CovHop_1.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Sadly that is not the same.

 

Chris

Edited November 21, 2018 by Chris Higgs

[PaulCheffus]

Sadly that is not the same.

 

Chris

Hi Chris

 

I know that but the part I think he is referring too is similar in the white circle.

 

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited November 21, 2018 by PaulCheffus

[Chris Higgs]

Hi Chris

 

I know that but the part I think he is referring too is similar in the white circle.

 

CovHop_1.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Err, no. On the Southern wagons it does fold back on itself into a U shape and goes behind the V hanger.

 

On the BR designs it is as you say flat.

 

Chris

[justin1985]

Thanks Chris, just the image I needed. I'll print a copy to keep with the instructions in case I ever build any more!

 

Managed to get them on more or less correctly and without snapping on one wagon; one with some bodging/improvising replacements for the bits that snapped off. The third I've freelanced into an unfitted layout - that one can masquerade as a pre-grouping LSWR version (incorrect, I know, but close enough).

 

Justin

[Lacathedrale]

I'm sorry, I know it's rude to call attention to ones own question when the conversation has moved on - but I was hoping I could get a quick yes/no as to whether I can safely remove and refit switchblades to a completed all-soldered PCB turnout, in the sense that I will be able to use standard roller/button gauges to get new blades re-laid correctly? My assumption is yes, since I can use roller/buttons to gauge the curved switchblade against the curved stock rail, then roller/triangle gauges for the straight - but I'd much prefer to get confirmation than ruin an otherwise perfectly fine piece of trackwork!

[Ian Morgan]

I have managed to remove a rail. I used some thin paper (Rizla) and push it between the rail and the sleeper while the solder is molten to stop it reattaching when you take the heat away. Don't linger too long with the soldering iron or the copper will eventually come away from the sleeper.

[Caley Jim]

I always lay the stockrails first then fit the crossing and finally the closure rails and switches, so there's no reason why you can't refit the switches using the gauges as you suggest. As Ian says, getting the old ones out without damaging the sleepers will be the tricky bit.

 

Jim

[Lacathedrale]

I assumed I would be ruining the point blade as a matter of course by removing it, so twisting and yanking away from the PCB timber was the name of the game - but I realise you're quite right about ensuring I don't delaminate the timbers. Thank you.

 

The switchblade filing jig is very useful, or at least, ends up consistent (so far!) but I need to replace the wet & dry affixed to it already: does anyone know what grade I should be looking at? I'm going to go with 240 unless I hear otherwise.

Edited November 24, 2018 by Lacathedrale

[Lacathedrale]

Hi chaps, with the warning that Store 3 was going to close up for Jan and Feb, I thought it might be appropriate to get a project for the new year (I confess I probably have enough to keep me going, but you never know) - to get a 2FS Class 08 I see that the association has a chassis and wheels listed - but basically nothing else. I appreciate this may be another step further than the chassis-kit I have for my Jinty, but it would be great to get equipped for it so i can start as soon as I feel ready.

From the store I think these are a given:
3-681 Farish 08 Chassis
3-007 *3 (4'6" spoked outside crank wheels)

Then at this point I'm somewhat adrift - I know I need muffs, gears (3-364?) /gearboxes, crankpins (3-107 and 3-109?) and a motor (3-253?) but I would hope for some guidance or advice if at all possible. Does anyone have instructions for this chassis kit which might elaborate?

As an alternate thought, maybe it would be easier to simply send the wheels to be reprofiled?
 

[PaulCheffus]

Hi chaps, with the warning that Store 3 was going to close up for Jan and Feb, I thought it might be appropriate to get a project for the new year (I confess I probably have enough to keep me going, but you never know) - to get a 2FS Class 08 I see that the association has a chassis and wheels listed - but basically nothing else. I appreciate this may be another step further than the chassis-kit I have for my Jinty, but it would be great to get equipped for it so i can start as soon as I feel ready.

 

From the store I think these are a given:

3-681 Farish 08 Chassis

3-007 *3 (4'6" spoked outside crank wheels)

 

Then at this point I'm somewhat adrift - I know I need muffs, gears (3-364?) /gearboxes, crankpins (3-107 and 3-109?) and a motor (3-253?) but I would hope for some guidance or advice if at all possible. Does anyone have instructions for this chassis kit which might elaborate?

 

As an alternate thought, maybe it would be easier to simply send the wheels to be reprofiled?

 

 

Hi

 

The link at the top of the chassis section with the i in a blue circle will give you all the information you require.

http://2mm.org.uk/products/info/?prodnum=h-etched-loco-chassis-kits

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited November 27, 2018 by PaulCheffus

[Lacathedrale]

Paul, I am so sorry - thank you for linking me - I was expecting to see the 'i' next to the item name, but it is there as clear as day.

[John57sharp]

I’m wondering if there are any instructions available specific to 2-351 Wagon Chassis: Etched NS: 12' WB: 21' over Headstocks: Suits Parkside Kits/Farish Bodies? I’m using it under the Grampus kit.

TIA

John

[Valentin]

Hello,

 

I am slightly confused about the general instructions for the etched replacement chassis for RTR locomotives, and the arrangement diagrams, with regard to the Graham Farish BR Class 03/04.

 

The "Required Parts List" section in the instructions states:

 

"[...]

2 x gear muffs

2 x axle muffs

Spur gears as appropriate (see the arrangement diagram for the specific loco)

[...]"

 

From studying the arrangement diagram for the 03/04 chassis, my understanding is that I need three M0.4/14T gears: a spur gear and two final driving gears: one for the rear axle and another one for the middle axle, in which case I would need three gear muffs and one axle muff.

 

And am I correct in assuming that I would need another axle muff for the jackshaft?

 

Thank you,

Edited December 2, 2018 by Valentin

[robin2247]

Hello,

 

I am slightly confused about the general instructions for the etched replacement chassis for RTR locomotives, and the arrangement diagrams, with regard to the Graham Farish BR Class 03/04.

 

The "Required Parts List" section in the instructions states:

 

"[...]

2 x gear muffs

2 x axle muffs

Spur gears as appropriate (see the arrangement diagram for the specific loco)

[...]"

 

From studying the arrangement diagram for the 03/04 chassis, my understanding is that I need three M0.4/14T gears: a spur gear and two final driving gears: one for the rear axle and another one for the middle axle, in which case I would need three gear muffs and one axle muff.

 

And am I correct in assuming that I would need another axle muff for the jackshaft?

 

Thank you,

Hi Valentin

I have not built this kit but I believe you will require.

 

2 gear muffs for the worm wheel and centre axle

3 axle muffs for the outer axles and the jack shaft

1 30/1 worm set

2 M0.4/14 t gears and

12 axle bearings

 

Hope this is of use

Robin

Edited December 2, 2018 by robin2247

[Izzy]

What you need depends on whether you drive off just one axle, either the centre or rear, or both. The chassis has been cleverly arranged to give these options. Mine, which I am just completing, drives off just the rear axle, ( because of my keeper-plate arrangement so I can drop the wheels out). So 2 axle muffs plus 2 gear muffs. For the jackshaft I used a smaller 2.3mm muff which gives a bit more wiggle room.

 

Izzy

[Valentin]

Thank you, both. All clear now regarding the muffs and gears. As for the jackshaft, are each of these formed of three layers plus the overlay then somehow glued to a stub axle?

[Izzy]

Thank you, both. All clear now regarding the muffs and gears. As for the jackshaft, are each of these formed of three layers plus the overlay then somehow glued to a stub axle?

 

Erm, yes and no, well in my case anyway! I formed the layers using wire through the crankpin holes to align them (which becomes soldered into place and so forms the crankpin), and then just opened up the hole gently to take the axle, standard 1.5mm. Soldered these in place and then cut down to size as stubs. The drawing/etching standard is such that this gives a good concentric result.

 

Izzy

[Valentin]

Many thanks for the explanations, Izzy, very clear.

 

How to you plan to fit the motor? Or maybe if you already fitted, in which case you may share a photo?...

[Izzy]

Many thanks for the explanations, Izzy, very clear.

 

How to you plan to fit the motor? Or maybe if you already fitted, in which case you may share a photo?...

 

I posted a few shots a while back in the workbench thread here:-

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65499-whats-on-your-2mm-work-bench/page-64

 

It's been finished since then - just - and fitted with a stay-alive unit. When I get the chance I'll post a few more shots if it's of any help to anyone. The stay-alive is fitted into the cab below the window line and makes all the difference to performance. I would now suggest that they need to be considered as a basic fitment where space allows and DCC is used with small locos such as these.

 

I will say that whatever motor you use trying to add as much weight to make up for fitting the etched chassis is useful. You loose quite a bit, the Farish chassis is a good proportion of the total loco weight being a mazak casting.

 

Izzy

[Valentin]

I plan to recycle a replacement chassis for the 0-6-0ST Hunslet Austerity (J94) which was my first ever attempt to convert a RTR locomotive to 2mm fine scale but I am not sure if it's worth the trouble. I stripped it down to nearly the bare metal (only the spur gear bearings have been speared). The frame has a few bends but not major and the bearing holes are slightly too large, at 2.55 - 2.6mm photos below). I did only the left frame but I thought I ask the more experienced opinion: shall I go ahead and to the right frame or is it better to scrap the chassis and get a new one?

 

 

Edited December 2, 2018 by Valentin

[Donw]

I plan to recycle a replacement chassis for the 0-6-0ST Hunslet Austerity (J94) which was my first ever attempt to convert a RTR locomotive to 2mm fine scale but I am not sure if it's worth the trouble. I stripped it down to nearly the bare metal (only the spur gear bearings have been speared). The frame has a few bends but not major and the bearing holes are slightly too large, at 2.55 - 2.6mm photos below). I did only the left frame but I thought I ask the more experienced opinion: shall I go ahead and to the right frame or is it better to scrap the chassis and get a new one?

 

 

 

I think this is a case of the time/money balance. Sort of time and a bit of spare cash buying a new chassis makes sense.  Sort of money and enough time you can recycle the old one. Obviously your skill level can also be a factor for example how do you intend to ensure the new bearings are correctly in line if the holes are oversize ?

 

Don

[queensquare]

I plan to recycle a replacement chassis for the 0-6-0ST Hunslet Austerity (J94) which was my first ever attempt to convert a RTR locomotive to 2mm fine scale but I am not sure if it's worth the trouble. I stripped it down to nearly the bare metal (only the spur gear bearings have been speared). The frame has a few bends but not major and the bearing holes are slightly too large, at 2.55 - 2.6mm photos below). I did only the left frame but I thought I ask the more experienced opinion: shall I go ahead and to the right frame or is it better to scrap the chassis and get a new one?

 

 

 

Bearing holes being fractionally large wont be a problem so long as you use the coupling rods to set up the spacing. Have a look at the way Kieth Gloster has made some simple jigs to do this here  http://2mmkeag.blogspot.com/2018/11/november-2018-meeting.html

 

Jerry

[Crosland]

Bearing holes being fractionally large wont be a problem so long as you use the coupling rods to set up the spacing. Have a look at the way Kieth Gloster has made some simple jigs to do this here  http://2mmkeag.blogspot.com/2018/11/november-2018-meeting.html

 

Jerry

 

The problem is you need a way to make the reduced axles "This picture shows the 1.5mm axle steels in place which have been drilled to take .5 crank pins" No mention at all as to how that was achieved I don't (yet) possess a lathe or a drill press accurate enough for this.

 

I once did something similar in 00 using progressive sizes of brass tube to step up to 1/8 inch. I'm not sure (haven't looked) if you could do the same to get from 0.5mm crankpin dia. to 1.5mm axle dia.

[queensquare]

The problem is you need a way to make the reduced axles "This picture shows the 1.5mm axle steels in place which have been drilled to take .5 crank pins[/size]" No mention at all as to how that was achieved I don't (yet) possess a lathe or a drill press accurate enough for this.

 

I once did something similar in 00 using progressive sizes of brass tube to step up to 1/8 inch. I'm not sure (haven't looked) if you could do the same to get from 0.5mm crankpin dia. to 1.5mm axle dia.

This is very true, I'm lucky enough to have both a lathe and drill press but it's a good point. The Association often asks what could usefully be added to the shop, I would suggest that a set of 1.5mm jig axles would be a useful addition.

 

Jerry

[Donw]

Bearing holes being fractionally large wont be a problem so long as you use the coupling rods to set up the spacing. Have a look at the way Kieth Gloster has made some simple jigs to do this here  http://2mmkeag.blogspot.com/2018/11/november-2018-meeting.html

 

Jerry

 

I would also use the coupling rods aligned with the top of the frame to do so. My comment was to indicate that you needed to think beyond just cleaning up the frame. Simple jigs are often a good idea.

 

Don