GreenDiesel Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I recently bought a Metcalfe kit -- I was planning to build it as a low-relief corner shop for my small 00 switching layout. Are these kits fairly easy to assemble and how durable are they? It looks like it should be quite easy & well-explained but just thought I'd check. One of the guys at my local hobby shop recommended these kits saying that they would be suitable for my switching layout (which is about a foot wide by 48" long). Thanks in advance, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nnich Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I recently bought a Metcalfe kit -- I was planning to build it as a low-relief corner shop for my small 00 switching layout. Are these kits fairly easy to assemble and how durable are they? It looks like it should be quite easy & well-explained but just thought I'd check. One of the guys at my local hobby shop recommended these kits saying that they would be suitable for my switching layout (which is about a foot wide by 48" long). Thanks in advance, Rob Rob I have built several. IMHO they are slightly superior to SuperQuick whilst very similar in concept. They are fun to build and will repay care in construction with a superior model. They usually come with a selection of signage for shops/pubs/warehouses etc and are fairly easy to customize As for durability - I've had several on my layout for years and they have stood the test of time well. If your layout room is subject to extremes of temperature or humidity then some simple internal bracing with balsa will help the structural integrity Norm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDiesel Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Rob I have built several. IMHO they are slightly superior to SuperQuick whilst very similar in concept. They are fun to build and will repay care in construction with a superior model. They usually come with a selection of signage for shops/pubs/warehouses etc and are fairly easy to customize As for durability - I've had several on my layout for years and they have stood the test of time well. If your layout room is subject to extremes of temperature or humidity then some simple internal bracing with balsa will help the structural integrity Norm Thanks, Norm! I might try to work on mine in the next day or so then. It does feel quite durable. Even though it does get quite humid here in the summer, I think my layout room (in the basement) should be OK as it's quite cool down there. Will also have to watch that my kids (or their friends) don't damage it. Cheers, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 One tip is to get a cheap pack felt-tip pens. Then run the most appropriate colour along the edges to cover up the white. This goes a long way to improve the look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDiesel Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 One tip is to get a cheap pack felt-tip pens. Then run the most appropriate colour along the edges to cover up the white. This goes a long way to improve the look. Thanks -- that sounds like a great idea. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 With damp possible, treat the lot with Dull-cote varnish after building, both inside and out and the edges. other varnishes will work, but Dull-cote dries fast, and is a Testors Canada product. You may also prefer to use a waterproof grade of PVA glue, outdoor grade etc, although ordinary will work as well for grip. Adding extra internal bracing, and the internal floors, always helps, again treat with varnish. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted June 25, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 25, 2011 Rob: come, sit beside me at the next railway show. I expect to be demonstrating card kits again. Who's selling them? No, don't tell me; I have trays of them stored away i case I get another room to fill. Metcalfe are pretty good. (Unless you get the original set with no pre-cuts -- they're merely good). I use yellow carpenter's glue as it sets faster than white -- you might want to use white glue for the first couple of kits. I haven't needed any protection on the card. You need a nice flat board, wax paper, aluminimum foil, and a lot of clothespins and clamps. A brand new X-acto blade or scalpel. Toothpicks for applying glue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westcountryman Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Hi, I totally agree with all of the comments which have gone before, such as using either ink or acrylic to 'colour in' the exposed corners, & using matt varnish if used in a damp atmosphere, such as a shed or garage. If you find that you do enjoy building these kits, it is a simple improvement to add certain details, such as plastic drainpipes, guttering, chimney pots, so as to add to the overall detail. There are many popular kits to choose from for these additions, but normally, a fiddle about in your 'kit spares' box will provide plenty of suitable material. Weathering the card on Metcalfe kits is simplicity itself, as the card will take watercolour pencils, dry brush acrylics, or weathering pencils. A few dabs of dilute PVA and a quick scatter with a pinch of flock, will suitably disguise any Metcalfe kit. The big plus of these kits, rather than the expensive 'ready to plant' structures, is that they are very simple to modify, using simple, easily available materials. Final hint is even though these kits are generally 'pre-cut' & are a simple job to press out of the mastercard, use a new, sharp blade in a craft knife, as the printed faces of the kit can get easily torn. Good luck with the kits, & don't forget to show how you got on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Hi, Rob, You've picked a good product to both learn on, and to kit-bash with a little more experience under your belt. If you haven't started yet, I'd advise scanning your model sheets and saving the results so that in the event of a 'slip-up' you can print out a little bit to stick on and repair the damage! Plenty of good advice given, especially W'Countryman's tip to use a knife to cut the little tabs or you WILL end up tearing the face-papers. Herewith some photographs of one of the very first Metcalfe kits, the corner pub 'PO203' with it's black exterior paintwork suitably adapted to represent a 1920s pub. The kit was withdrawn a long time ago and had lain in my drawer for very a long time! The makeover includes thin card over-lintels, Scalescenes slate paper roof, and re-printed bay window frames. I coloured the original acetate window frames using a yellow watercolour pencil 'dry'. Another tecnique to vary the appearance of Metcalfe models is to use a suitable emulsion paint to represent rendering. Copyright N. Metcalfe I hope this gives you some ideas, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahram Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 I have built a few of them and they are very good, I also bought some guttering and down pipes from I think Wills? or Ratio? and they add to the kits in a big way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Ava_Hay Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 I have used the Station Platform kit to build Readstoke's platforms which are on my gallery. Highly recommended. Not a building but the kit idea is still there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahram Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Chubber your buildings look superb, how did you do the chimneys? I cannot seem to get good looking ones as recommended by Metcalf. I have found it very difficult to get them to look convincing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Either of these might help, but for the rolling 'twixt finger method, be prepared to get some grief when you forget your fingers are messy and a. Scratch your ear/nose b. Open the [white] 'fridge door..... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/23681-country-pub-and-narrow-boat-in-n-gauge/page__p__236735__hl__%2Bmetcalfe+%2Brolling+%2Bpots__fromsearch__1#entry236735 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/28521-flexible-chimney-pots/page__p__299004__fromsearch__1#entry299004 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahram Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Brilliant, thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted June 27, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2011 I have built a number of Metcalfe kits over several years. Without exception the quality is superb. Crisp clear print, sharp cut pieces, adequate (and usually precise) instructions including the odd potential pitfall being flagged. They stand up well and will accept weathering as we have seen above applied by "dry" methods including delicate application of powders. My preferred method of construction is using a fast-grab "craft glue" product. The largest structure to date has been the stone viaduct which is a substantial 4-arch double-track kit (which can equally be built as single track) and which stood the test of living outside on the railway for over four years in all conditions of heat and cold, damp and dust. The legs had balsa inserts and the deck was strengthened with an MDF insert but the structure would have taken the weight of track, ballast and trains on its own. Had it been on an indoor layout it would probably be still in use. I will reccomend Metcalfe kits without hesitation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 IMHO the instructions for the Metcalfe range are a lot simpler to follow than the Superquick range. I used all sorts of kits from the Metcalfe range on my pervious layout which was based in my garage. They stood up very well to damp over a period of several years without any special coatings. They are also easy to bash around and do your own thing. The only disadvantage is that they are really popular and if you don't try to go a little bespoke on them - e.g. the excellent corner pub (above), then your layout will look pretty similar to thousands of others using Metcalfe products. Enjoy! And happy modelling. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve22 Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Excellent photos, Chubber, an inspiration to us all to do even a little more to our kits. Thanks for the original question Rob, we've all learned something from this. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Excellent photos, Chubber, an inspiration to us all to do even a little more to our kits. Thanks for the original question Rob, we've all learned something from this. Steve. Thank you, Steve and Barham, for your kind remarks, The simplest change to a row of Metcalfe buildings would be to use Scalescenes roof papers on one of them. I'm surprised Nick Metcalfe hasn't included an a alternative sheet of overlay, say, on the back of his very comprehensive instruction sheets! Doug [Keep doin' it with card, the ecologically sounder way of structure modelling.....] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDiesel Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 A little late here, but thanks for all of your advice & feedback. I'm not too worried about the popularity of these kits because I live in Canada and there are only a few British outline modellers here, so I should still have a unique or "not-that-common" building when I'm done. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 A little late here, but thanks for all of your advice & feedback. I'm not too worried about the popularity of these kits because I live in Canada and there are only a few British outline modellers here, so I should still have a unique or "not-that-common" building when I'm done. Rob Me again. I find most layouts seem to feature Metcalfe buildings so you may not be as unique as you think. Chimneys can be obtained from the Wills Building Detail pack or Dart Castings. If you don't want the chimneys coming off, drill for 0.032" wire and anchor them into the chimney base. For gutters I have come to prefer Evergreen halfround glued to a piece of flat strip to give the impression of a soffet. For downspouts some suitable dia brass rod bent to shape. Wind some fine wire round the rod in two or three places to simulate brackets and solder (I suppose superglue would work too). Drill a hole in the wall and insert. Use superglue to fix. I have never used matte varnish for the Metcalfes I built but did for the Scalescenes buildings I made. The problem with paper/card is that if you make a mistake it's difficult to repair since the paper is so easily damaged. A coat of matte varnish protects the paper making it less susceptible to water damage if you need to wipe off excess white glue. The Scalescenes roofs look very good even if they are tedious to do. If you have an exhibition layout, Metcalfe (and Superquik) buildings will deteriorate rapidly (well, mine did). I was never happy with my Metcalfe (and Superquik) buildings (my workmanship no doubt) so I rebuilt mine to a similar design on the same footprint in plastic card and Slaters material sheets. So much better. Results can be seen at the link below. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDiesel Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Me again. I find most layouts seem to feature Metcalfe buildings so you may not be as unique as you think. Chimneys can be obtained from the Wills Building Detail pack or Dart Castings. If you don't want the chimneys coming off, drill for 0.032" wire and anchor them into the chimney base. For gutters I have come to prefer Evergreen halfround glued to a piece of flat strip to give the impression of a soffet. For downspouts some suitable dia brass rod bent to shape. Wind some fine wire round the rod in two or three places to simulate brackets and solder (I suppose superglue would work too). Drill a hole in the wall and insert. Use superglue to fix. I have never used matte varnish for the Metcalfes I built but did for the Scalescenes buildings I made. The problem with paper/card is that if you make a mistake it's difficult to repair since the paper is so easily damaged. A coat of matte varnish protects the paper making it less susceptible to water damage if you need to wipe off excess white glue. The Scalescenes roofs look very good even if they are tedious to do. If you have an exhibition layout, Metcalfe (and Superquik) buildings will deteriorate rapidly (well, mine did). I was never happy with my Metcalfe (and Superquik) buildings (my workmanship no doubt) so I rebuilt mine to a similar design on the same footprint in plastic card and Slaters material sheets. So much better. Results can be seen at the link below. John Hi John, Great to run into you again! Initially, I bought my Metcalfe for my 1x4' switching layout. I was going to kit-bash it into a low-relief building. I now think I will make it full-size, as per its instructions, for my larger layout. I hope it will be strong enough. I prefer Hornby's Scaledale range because they are so well-done and realistic but mainly because they are very tough and durable. Buildings made from fragile plastic or card kits can easily get damaged. My kids are pretty good around our layouts but even they (or their friends) can occasionally damage something. At any rate, I hope to have a go with the Metcalfe building in the next week or so, and just see how it turns out. Cheers, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locksmithengineer Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 I have a metcalf goods shed about to get the full scalescenes roof treatment. Already added the signage. Metcalfe kits are great, very attractive but you cannot beat scalescenes for texture. They are my first port of call now. Then metcalfe, then good old superquick (with scalescenes brick papers on standby of course :S) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 ....Don't forget, piccies please when completed! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
driver3260 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Does any one know where I can get the instruction sheet for the Metcalfe 00 gauge platform kit, Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I have recently been given a pack of these, [now where did I put it??] they are at least ten years old but don't think the instructions will have changed! I'm out all day tomorrow but will copy them off Wednesday to email you if you don't get a quicker answer elsewhere....so in the meantime p.m. me your email address. Poop-poop! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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