Chris Higgs Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 A single piece of brass or p/b wire folded into a sort of seriffed U shape and mounted along the c/l axis of the loco under the moulding. Grooves and the start of holes fore and aft on the moulding would help to spring the wire into, and then keep it in, place. Presumably it only needs to keep the radial truck in place when the loco is lifted. Yes, thanks, that should do it. Although I have gone with two wires as it makes my engineering mind more settled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wotan Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hello, A question, making my first stab at a replacment chassis, I'm using the j39, but plan to keep the tender drive mechanism ,( any suggestions on a motor replacement to improve on the farish Offering? ) I'm making the replacment loco chassis to basically do what the farish original did but with association wheels etc, Thought this might be a good learning opportunity as well before meddling with gears, maybe next time? Is the secondary inner loco frame essential doing it this Way?. Any tips gratefully recieved. Many thanks Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Hello, A question, making my first stab at a replacment chassis, I'm using the j39, but plan to keep the tender drive mechanism ,( any suggestions on a motor replacement to improve on the farish Offering? ) I'm making the replacment loco chassis to basically do what the farish original did but with association wheels etc, Thought this might be a good learning opportunity as well before meddling with gears, maybe next time? Is the secondary inner loco frame essential doing it this Way?. Any tips gratefully recieved. Many thanks Michael The second layer of etch is equally useful for a push-along loco chassis as it is for a driven version, as the extra stiffness is still beneficial. I think Bill Blackburn used a Maxon coreless for his tender conversion of a B1, the J39 is in essence the same tender. Its low maximum revs made the result very smooth running. Chris Edited March 19, 2017 by Chris Higgs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bécasse Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Yes, thanks, that should do it. Although I have gone with two wires as it makes my engineering mind more settled. radial truck 4.png If I am right in thinking that it is just a retainer not only will a single wire be perfectly adequate, but it will be a lot less fiddly to fit than two. The 3D print may appear large in the drawing but it is surely minuscule in reality. By the way, although I suggested using brass or p/b wire, I suspect that in practice I personally would use a reshaped staple for the purpose. They are easier to bend accurately than wire and they keep their bent shape well (which is, of course, what they are designed to do). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted March 20, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2017 The second layer of etch is equally useful for a push-along loco chassis as it is for a driven version, as the extra stiffness is still beneficial. I think Bill Blackburn used a Maxon coreless for his tender conversion of a B1, the J39 is in essence the same tender. Its low maximum revs made the result very smooth running. Chris On my J39 I used the Maxon motor, which is a big improvement. The tender chassis can be made to fit the motor quite easily, which is Araldited into place. Bill also changed the gear ratio, but I'm not sure how. Tim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 If I am right in thinking that it is just a retainer not only will a single wire be perfectly adequate, but it will be a lot less fiddly to fit than two. The 3D print may appear large in the drawing but it is surely minuscule in reality. By the way, although I suggested using brass or p/b wire, I suspect that in practice I personally would use a reshaped staple for the purpose. They are easier to bend accurately than wire and they keep their bent shape well (which is, of course, what they are designed to do). I would use guitar strings. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) On my J39 I used the Maxon motor, which is a big improvement. The tender chassis can be made to fit the motor quite easily, which is Araldited into place. Bill also changed the gear ratio, but I'm not sure how. Tim He changed a couple of the spur gears for Association ones to change the overall ratio from 20:1 to 36:1. It is described in the Apr 2016 2mm Magazine. Chris Edited March 20, 2017 by Chris Higgs 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Here's my design for a 3D-printed radial truck. The idea is that you just plug two Association bearings into the holes in the truck proper, and the truck holder is glued into the slot in the frames. I'll have to get one made and see if the truck slides smoothly enough within the holder, or if the friction is too high, and I have to make etched parts to fold up and provided the actual sliding surfaces. The radial truck is universal, it should be useable in any loco requiring one. Any ideas on how to hold the truck in so it doesn't keep falling out? radial truck 1.pngradial truck 2.pngradial truck 3.png The radial trucks arrived from Shapeways today and work a treat. Just a little polishing with a fibreglass brush and they slide left to right very nicely. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) Also received are new and simplifed motor mounts for coreless motors (7mm, 8mm and 10mm diameter). You simply glue the motor onto the mount. You can cut the mounting pins off if you want to just glue the mount to your frame spacers Height adjustments if needed made by inserting plastikard (or similar) shims under the base. Chris Edited March 28, 2017 by Chris Higgs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted March 27, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 27, 2017 interesting will they be a shop item ? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 interesting will they be a shop item ? Nick Currently under discussion Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Also received are new and simplifed motor mounts for coreless motors (7mm, 8mm and 10mm diameter). You simply glue the motor onto the mount. You can cut the mounting pins off if you want to just glue the mount to your frame spacers. Height adjustments if needed made by inserting plastikard (or similar) shims under the base. How useful! Is there a possibility for a mount for 6mm diameter motors too? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 How useful! Is there a possibility for a mount for 6mm diameter motors too? In principle yes. But where would you use it? I have gone down to 7mm because at that size the motor can fit between the wheels. If we are talking narrow gauge prototypes we need a mount that is slimmer still than the ones I have shown. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Hall Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On my J39 I used the Maxon motor, which is a big improvement. The tender chassis can be made to fit the motor quite easily, which is Araldited into place. Bill also changed the gear ratio, but I'm not sure how. Tim I squeezed a Mashima M16K into my coarse scale J39, the result being the slowest runner I have ever owned. The downside is that I had to take out a fair amount of cast weight to get it to fit, so it wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, about twelve wagons is as much as it can manage. My fiddle yard takes ten wagons 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wotan Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I squeezed a Mashima M16K into my coarse scale J39, the result being the slowest runner I have ever owned. The downside is that I had to take out a fair amount of cast weight to get it to fit, so it wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, about twelve wagons is as much as it can manage. My fiddle yard takes ten wagons That's an interesting option thanks for posting.... I have to say as I'm sure many know already and apologies if it's obvious to say fitting an ct elektronik chip in has transformed the running of the farish motor. Feeling rather chuffed finally getting a working 2mm steam loco moving up and down and running how i had hoped for using the option of an association loco chassis and wheels and the farish tender drive with turned down wheels.... Now what's the shopping list needed for the black5 Chassis? Best wishes Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) A spurt of activity over the weekend meant that I finished the artwork for the following chassis: GWR 42XX/72XX 2-8-0T/2-8-2T GWR 56XX 0-6-2T GWR 47XX 2-8-0 You'll probably spot that the first two are related to me working out how to do a radial truck. Chris Edited April 4, 2017 by Chris Higgs 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 What is happening about distributing your eagerly awaited chassis to us chassis deprived persons please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Is it safe to presume that the 2-8-2T fits the WW body? How different is that modern 2-8-0 from the ones I wish to model? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 What is happening about distributing your eagerly awaited chassis to us chassis deprived persons please? There was a delay as I needed to sort out the radial truck thing on the 61XX. I hope to send them to the etchers this week now. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) Is it safe to presume that the 2-8-2T fits the WW body? How different is that modern 2-8-0 from the ones I wish to model? A 47XX is hardly modern! Just bigger. Bigger boiler, bigger wheels, bigger wheelbase... As far as I know Alan Doherty's 42XX and 72XX are dimensionally accurate and are some of his nicest work. So it should fit. I suppose I should dig out my examples and check for mounting holes etc. But remember he does those etches in both 1:152 and 1:148. I may well be doing the etched chassis in both as well but the 1:148 will be first. I have a sheet being drawn up with true 2mm versions of most of the GWR chassis I have done on it. Chris Edited April 4, 2017 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 4, 2017 The 47xx was much more a mixed traffic loco than the 28xx, used for fast overnight freights I believe and some passenger work in the summer. I think that was often a Saturday holiday train. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 Is it safe to presume that the 2-8-2T fits the WW body? How different is that modern 2-8-0 from the ones I wish to model? The ones you are wanting to model being the 28XX in original condition? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Kind of. I'm working towards 2863 approximately as at 1921 and 2811 a little later in life. Possibly better to do my own. I think the 72xx I have is the slightly smaller size. It's a long time since I looked at because there are bits that went wrong and some that I couldn't figure out the best way to do either (bunker curves) at the time. Seems it will wait some time more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAustin Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 A spurt of activity over the weekend meant that I finished the artwork for the following chassis: GWR 42XX/72XX 2-8-0T/2-8-2T GWR 56XX 0-6-2T GWR 47XX 2-8-0 You'll probably spot that the first two are related to me working out how to do a radial truck. Chris Chris, Will the 56xx chassis be useable with the Beaver body kit. If so, I need 4. Mark A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) Chris, Will the 56xx chassis be useable with the Beaver body kit. If so, I need 4. Mark A That was the idea. However, I don't really know whether the Beaver model is scaled at 1:152 or 1:148 (or something else altogether) as I don't own one and wil probably never be so lucky as to obtain one. Obviously you would need whichever scale is best suted. Measurements, particularly the length over the outside of the bufferbeams and between the bufferbeams would be greatly appreciated. Chris Edited April 12, 2017 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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