richbrummitt Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 This looks nice, and something to aspire to for me as a beginner. Is this Chris' chassis? How does it compare to the Wolsey chassis? (still not received membership docs so can't order anything yet and getting itchy fingers!) It does look nice. It doesn't look like anyone elses design. I presume you mean worsley, as in worsley works? Personally I would prefer to build one of Chris' chassis kits: everything will be designed to match the association parts with the minimum head scratching from the builder. Worsley Works kits are good, but usually require some additional parts and ideas to be created/sourced by the builder and so not quite as suited to a beginner in the case of loco chassis. Regarding the membership. Be patient! Good things come to those who (pay the membership fee and) wait 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeld Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Yes the pictures I posted are of the chassis designed by Chris,and even unfinished it transforms the Farish body which sits on top. Ive not got a good record when it comes to building chassis,but this one gave me the confidence that it is possible (shame about the cradle/jig not working on the first etches but will be put right). The only thing I added to the original design was a vertical strengthening spacer near the gearbox,just to give it a bit more rigidity. But these are really good for newcomers to the scale. Anyone thinking about 2FS go for it,the society offers so much in parts and possibilities. I've stuck to re-wheeling diesels in the past but I can see I can develop my locos further now...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Patience is a virtue that I'm not always blessed with. I may just send another app form just in case it didn't arrive - our postie's got previous form for missing post... Can I buy one from Chris while in membership limbo? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) Please don't send another form in without checking with the membership secretary whether the first one arrived - it will not help!!! You can't buy anything without your membership number (and shop listing) which will be in your membership pack - the kits are sold through the Association shop, not via Chris. Andy Edited February 21, 2012 by 2mm Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 21, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2012 Patience is a virtue that I'm not always blessed with. I may just send another app form just in case it didn't arrive - our postie's got previous form for missing post... Can I buy one from Chris while in membership limbo? Nth Degree, have you thought about thinking a little sometimes before hitting the send button. Jerry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Don't worry, I'm not serious about sending another form, though our post service does like to lose things around here. It's only been a little over a week and I can wait another week or so before I contact anyone to see if it's been received. I'm not having two items of post in the wilderness with my credit card details on, some faith please. I was serious about patience though, bitten fingernails to prove it. There's no 'humour' button on this forum, and I absolutely refuse to use smileys or txt spk. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armchair Modeller Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Patience is a virtue that I'm not always blessed with. I may just send another app form just in case it didn't arrive - our postie's got previous form for missing post... Can I buy one from Chris while in membership limbo? This chassis has been withdrawn temporarily due to a small problem with the etch, I believe. You may have to be a little more patient than you think! Worsley Works etches are very basic and leave the builder to work out a lot for themselves. The chassis kits sold through the 2mm shop have nearly everything thought out for you by someone who is very familiar with 2mm components. Even for an experienced modeller, the 2mm designs are likely to be by far the best option where there is a choice available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 It's probably better to describe Alan Doherty's stuff (Worsley Works) more clearly. Alan is not a 2mm modeller, he stops modelling at 3mm scale. He does etch dozens of things and is very accomodating at making stuff available, which makes his range incredibly useful. The basic dimensions are usually good, but they are not "thought out for building in 2mm scale". So, a loco etch may contain some frames, but working out how to fit the motor and gears is left to the builder, or the design of the chassis parts is for a 3mm (or larger) scale set of parts. In contrast, the chassis designs Chris has produced, along with those by David Eveleigh, Nigel Hunt and Bob Jones (Fence Houses) are designed to be built in 2mm scale. - Nigel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks Nigel, that explains the situation very clearly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I absolutely refuse to use smileys or txt spk. Smileys are great because they can easily clarify an emotion or context for the reader. Text speak is awful and in my opinion is completely unacceptable anywhere other than in a text. Acronyms are another matter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Snip...Text speak is awful and in my opinion is completely unacceptable anywhere other than in a text. . Not even there! Makes my blood boil - & the problem is texters don't know where the limits are. I've started receiving e-mails (and in one case a project outline) in it. God forbid, the OED will start recognising it! Rant off! (Mind you I also get told off for using acronyms... Those used by Sussex Police are different to those used by the Met - and British Transport Police don't recognise either...) Briliant thread by the way. I'll read through it at work tommorrow. Back to the layout! Regs Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 (Off topic) As an employer, I am amazed at the awful standard of CVs and letters I get from people applying for vacancies, and these are degree-educated people! (On topic) I find it equally amazing, in a positive sense, at the standard of 2mm modelling. I only hope that I can find a way of trying to emulate that standard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armchair Modeller Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 We don't all reach the highest standards, but it doesn't stop us enjoying the hobby 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Stubbs Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 New chassis jig for the 03 arrived this morning. The frames now have the bearings soldered in, and are sitting in the jig with the axle steel rods through the jig and frames, waiting for me to fettle up and fit the ocb spacers. But that's tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 New chassis jig for the 03 arrived this morning. The frames now have the bearings soldered in, and are sitting in the jig with the axle steel rods through the jig and frames, waiting for me to fettle up and fit the ocb spacers. But that's tomorrow. Here's a quick tip I don't put in the instructions. The quickest way to cut the spacers to length is with a Xuron track cutter and file smooth. Beats cutting them with a saw. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeld Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Got my 03 chassis up and running,have to say rather chuffed at my first effort....... All went together very well,hardest thing I found was getting the motor mounted,worm in, still not 100% right, instead of using Nigel Lawton's special motor shaft sleeves, I used a bit of 1.5mm outside diameter,1mm inside diameter tube,maybe its not quite concentric? and gives off a bit of motor vibration? Just the crankshaft and brakes to fit to finish off... IMG_1501.MOV 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Finally started on 57XX. I started on the rear wheel drive frames, as practice. The frames were quite easy to separate from the etch, and bend up, but what is that extra bend line for on the frame spacer piece? Having ascertained the body needed a lot of surgery for these frames, I opted for the centre drive frames. These were not so easy to separate, or get my cutters in - I'm using the Xuron ones. However success. Pleased to see the axle holes etc accept the bearings accurately, but I'm concerned that the holes for brake supports clash with frame spacers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Simms Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Got my 03 chassis up and running,have to say rather chuffed at my first effort....... All went together very well,hardest thing I found was getting the motor mounted,worm in, still not 100% right, instead of using Nigel Lawton's special motor shaft sleeves, I used a bit of 1.5mm outside diameter,1mm inside diameter tube,maybe its not quite concentric? and gives off a bit of motor vibration? Just the crankshaft and brakes to fit to finish off... Very nice, but you should be aware that somebody's been drawing on your trainset! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Finally started on 57XX. I started on the rear wheel drive frames, as practice. The frames were quite easy to separate from the etch, and bend up, but what is that extra bend line for on the frame spacer piece? It's not a bend line, but a seperation line. Some people will prefer not to leave the metal running right across the spacer with only a small off-centre isolation gap. So as an alterative you can use the hole as a drilling jig for the spacer, then remove the centre section. Having ascertained the body needed a lot of surgery for these frames, I opted for the centre drive frames. These were not so easy to separate, or get my cutters in - I'm using the Xuron ones. However success. Pleased to see the axle holes etc accept the bearings accurately, but I'm concerned that the holes for brake supports clash with frame spacers. This is no problem. You can either make sure the wires mounting the brakes are short enough to fit into the frames but not not foul the spacers, or simply drill a little into the spacer to give the wire a hole to sit in. I prefer the latter as it requires less precision work. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bogieman Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Please does anyone have a Chris Higgs 57xx Grafar chassis etch they're not planning on using for a while, could thus wait until they are in stock in the shop again and would be prepared to sell to me? I've finally managed to locate a 57xx body at a reasonable price but now find the etch is out of stock! I have wheels, gears, motors the whole set up but thought stupidly that the etch would be easily available when everything was ready to go. I wanted to use it's building to write an article on some ideas I had for building one, although my ideas might not work out of course. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bogieman Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 With the 57xx etch chassis conversion now available can anyone summarise the pros and cons, advantages and disadvantages or just the difficulties of using the rear axle drive compared to the centre axle please. I'm just about to start and would appreciate guidance on which to use. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I decided that the amount of metal to remove to fit the motor in did not justify the extra work. After all, the loco is light enough anyway. And it's pretty awful metal to do anything with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bogieman Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) I decided that the amount of metal to remove to fit the motor in did not justify the extra work. After all, the loco is light enough anyway. And it's pretty awful metal to do anything with. That's very interesting as I hadn't realised the metal removal was to fit the motor. I had been under the mistaken impression that it was a cosmetic exercise to give a clear view under the boiler. What therefore is the biggest motor one can fit after say minimal removal of metal? And does it mean that even with the drive on the centre axle for this conversion you had to remove metal to fit the motor? I'd appreciate knowing what size motor you managed to use or that one can get in? It would be useful to have comments from others who has done it one of either ways and the difficulties involved in removal metal to get a motor in.. Many thank for advice. Edited April 24, 2012 by bogieman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 That's very interesting as I hadn't realised the metal removal was to fit the motor. I had been under the mistaken impression that it was a cosmetic exercise to give a clear view under the boiler. What therefore is the biggest motor one can fit after say minimal removal of metal? And does it mean that even with the drive on the centre axle for this conversion you had to remove metal to fit the motor? I'd appreciate knowing what size motor you managed to use or that one can get in? For the rear axle drive you have to remove metal both to accomodate a decent size motor, and to leave daylight under the boiler. WIthout removing metal you could only get in a 6mm coreless motor, with metal removal you can get in an 8mm. Anything larger and you will obscure the space below the boiler that this method is designed to create. These rear axle frames are really for advanced modellers. To do a really proper job you also really need to make a new footplate from brass, as Julia did on her Pannier. Removing metal from Farish bodies is a right pain because of the alloy they use. You will get through a few tools on you milling machine or Dremel. For the centre axle drive no metal removal is needed, although you may wish to remove a tiny bit to position a 10mm coreless motor further forward. The new Association can motor (8mm by 10mm by 16mm) can be accomodated without any body changes. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 That's very interesting as I hadn't realised the metal removal was to fit the motor. I had been under the mistaken impression that it was a cosmetic exercise to give a clear view under the boiler. What therefore is the biggest motor one can fit after say minimal removal of metal? And does it mean that even with the drive on the centre axle for this conversion you had to remove metal to fit the motor? I'd appreciate knowing what size motor you managed to use or that one can get in? For the rear axle drive you have to remove metal both to accomodate a decent size motor, and to leave daylight under the boiler. WIthout removing metal you could only get in a 6mm coreless motor, with metal removal you can get in an 8mm. Anything larger and you will obscure the space below the boiler that this method is designed to create. These rear axle frames are really for advanced modellers. To do a really proper job you also really need to make a new footplate from brass, as Julia did on her Pannier. Removing metal from Farish bodies is a right pain because of the alloy they use. You will get through a few tools on you milling machine or Dremel. For the centre axle drive no metal removal is needed, although you may wish to remove a tiny bit to position a 10mm coreless motor further forward. The new Association can motor (8mm by 10mm by 16mm) can be accomodated without any body changes. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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