shinter Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 hi Folks I use Caustic Soda in warm water to remove paint from Diecast toys such as the Corgi toy Lorries . Unfortunately I have just found a coffee jar full of lorries that I put in over Christmas and forgot about. The paint has fallen off , but I have a crystal like deposit left on the bare metal which won't come off , even when I attack it with a wire brush in the Dremal drill . I guess an unwanted chemical action has taken place , anyone got any ideas for getting the stuff off ? thanks in advance Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
101.510 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I guess caustic soda is your preferred method of paint stripping; Nitromors is obviously another, the worst that happens with that if you leave it too long, is it dries out and forms like a 'shell' or 'skin' which isnt too hard to remove but there seems to be no other downside. I expect youve overcome the crystal like deposit problem by now (sorry dont read RM web very often!) I think probably the best you could do is scrape off the heaviest deposits with a blade or something, and maybe sandpaper smooth anything remaining. Hopefully anything remaining wont react with the paint when you get that far. There might be some sort of neutralising chemical you can rinse the castings in before you paint (?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic79 Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 There might be some sort of neutralising chemical you can rinse the castings in before you paint (?) Caustic soda is Sodium Hydroxide so you can neutralise with an acid, such as a vinegar solution. This is good practice when using caustic soda, regardless of the fact that the OP now has deposits on their model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 The deposits are zinc oxide, the material is an alloy of Magnesium and Zinc, and is the same white powder that appears with Mazak rot.. It indicates impurities in the metal, which usually are very low, and do not affect anything, but the Sodium Hydroxide has got at the metal structure, and may well have done permanent damage. It does mean that once the powder is formed, more damp may cause more breakdown of the metal.. With all Mazak die cast it is better to use Nitromors or Methanol based, and to remove asap. If the Caustic soda method is used, then only leave till paint shifts, no more, and then a mild acid wash, like vinegar to rid it of caustic. Another way is soaking in cellulose thinners, no possible harm to the metal, but slow and expensive. I frankly do not think you will be able to stop the oxide completely, apart from effective sanding away, if pitting of the metal has already occurred then it may be fatal to long term use. hope this helps, Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catkins Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 I don't know how you've got on with the replies above, but I use nail-varnish remover to strip die-cast paint work. It doesn't matter how much the nail varnish remover costs, because what matters is the ingredients, you are looking for a product called ACETONE. Acetone is a solvent, and can be used to lift paint and debond superglue, but it will also lift the natural oils out of your skin (your hands will feel cold), it is advisable to rinse your hands and models after being stripped. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinter Posted November 28, 2011 Author Share Posted November 28, 2011 Thanks for all the advice folks . As you would have gathered , I am very forgetful and had forgotten not only the Corgi lorries in the Jar , but also that I had posted a cry for help ! Clearly I need in future to revise my paint stripping procedures and find a way of reminding myself . kind regards m Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexTM Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi folks, Just came across this thread. I found Nitromors to be the best at stripping the models; you just have to remember to make sure you have removed every non-metallic part before going near the stuff. Wash off the gunge with warm soapy water and do it in a well ventilated place. Like a lot of these suggested chemicals, this stuff is not good for the skin so I would suggest heavy duty rubberised gloves (I use the type that can be found in the garden section of well known DIY stores). Once you have used them a few times you may find you get a bit of a tingling sensation - that's the time to get new gloves, although they'll still be fine for garden muck. Hope this is of help, even if late in arriving. regards, Alex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinter Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 thanks guys for all the guidance , it is much appreciated . I have now updated my methods , with succesful results . Although I have not been able to save the original vehicles, it has been a procees of positive discovery , in that as well as the deposits , the vehicles fall apart ( almost crumble ) An ideal situation when they are destined for a scap yard scene ! kind regards Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks for reviving this thread, I'm about to embark on stripping a corgi coach and was just wondering how to do it, saves me asking now. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks for all the advice folks . As you would have gathered , I am very forgetful and had forgotten not only the Corgi lorries in the Jar , but also that I had posted a cry for help ! Clearly I need in future to revise my paint stripping procedures and find a way of reminding myself . kind regards m If you're married then just leave the jar of them on the kitchen table or coffee table, you'll get reminded daily about them! doesn't work if you live on your own. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kittiwake Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Sorry to bring back life to this old thread, but I have recently been having problems removing the paint from old Hornby Dublo loco bodies using Nitromors stripper. On closer inspection I have found that the formulae has changed, because certain chemicals have been banned. Has anyone else had this problem, and have you any advice as to the way forward. I still have a few bodies to respray, and would like to get back to the bare castings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeharvey22 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 From comments elsewhere I believe that B&Q's own label stripper still includes the chemicals which will strip paint! On the Model Bus Federation forum users reported that Clostermann HD performed especially well. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Just came across this subject; I do NOT like chemicals. I use a cheap Nimrod gas solder 'gun' and wire brush. Make sure you have something to grip it well while you are doing this, though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
101.510 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 On closer inspection I have found that the formulae has changed, because certain chemicals have been banned. Has anyone else had this problem, and have you any advice as to the way forward. I still have a few bodies to respray, and would like to get back to the bare castings. what's changed is that the Nanny State decrees that the bloke in the street cant be trusted with the chemicals that used to be in Nitromors; so they remove them making the product as good as useless,and a waste of money. What they dont tell you is, you can still buy products which have the same makeup as the old Nitromors, but you have to be a 'professional' i.e. not the bloke in the street. Once you find a supplier (most places that mix/sell paint for instance) you can just go and buy it. I get my stripper in 5Litre tubs for about £27, which works exactly the same as the old Nitromors, but at that price is an absolute bargain. Previous to that a 375ml tin (yes,apart from changing the formula, they made the tin smaller and charge the same price) of Nitromors was almost £12. There is a similar situation whereby supposedly lead is banned from being used in paint. It isnt banned, I have a local paint manufacturer who confirmed it- but the rules and regulations about using lead in paint manufacture are so strict, it costs the manufacturers a fortune to comply, and so it ends up not being worth their while. Thats the only reason lead has all but disappeared from paint you can buy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I recall using brake fluid to strip paint off models - way back in the early '80s. It certainly removed Humbrol enamel quite effectively. I expect there is an EU regulation that means this is frowned on now and/or they have altered the formula so that it is no longer capable of stripping paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted April 4, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2014 Brake fluid is still the same but there are now strict regulations on disposal, you can't just pour it down the drain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
river ewayon Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Brake Fluid is good and still doesn't affect plastics in my experience. Is water soluble to boot. Fairy Power spray works well on some paints as does Dettox. For METAL ONLY Nitromors can be effective but the best I have found is B&Qs own Diall paint stripper. Comes in a white plastic bottle, smells quite nice, is alcohol based so relatively benign, cheap at 2.99 a bottle and best of all Bl**dy effective. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted December 31, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2015 Brake Fluid is good and still doesn't affect plastics in my experience. Is water soluble to boot. Fairy Power spray works well on some paints as does Dettox. For METAL ONLY Nitromors can be effective but the best I have found is B&Qs own Diall paint stripper. Comes in a white plastic bottle, smells quite nice, is alcohol based so relatively benign, cheap at 2.99 a bottle and best of all Bl**dy effective. Ah yes! see here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/101903-inappropriate-stripper/ for what that stuff does to a plastic loco body.....!!!! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
river ewayon Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 That bought a laugh! The loco definitely scrap. When I saw the title I got a little excited with the mention of strippers. Came down with a bump when the photo of the bottle came up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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