Jump to content
Worsdell forever

Worsdell Forever's LNER F8 2-4-2T Scratchbuild.

Recommended Posts

Well this is me throwing my hat into the ring. I've not decided yet what to build, there's a couple of projects I'm planning, just need to work out which is achievable in the time available.

Edited by Worsdell forever

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I've had a quick think and the most achievable would be an ex NER class A - LNER class F8. in 4mm scale OO gauge.

 

It will be built from Brass and will use available castings for the dome, smokebox door and backhead. The chimney might be a problem as it was unique, it was the same height as class O/G5 but slightly fatter. I will use Gibson wheels, Mashima motor and a High Level gearbox.

Edited by Worsdell forever
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK.. I just KNEW it.. now I am going to HAVE to do a 3mm one aren't I? :P (check my post ;) )

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I've had a quick think and the most achievable would be an ex NER class A - LNER class F8. in 4mm scale OO gauge.

 

It will be built from Brass and will use available castings for the dome, smokebox door and backhead. The chimney might be a problem as it was unique, it was the same height as class O/G5 but slightly fatter. I will use Gibson wheels, Mashima motor and a High Level gearbox.

 

That was one of my kit possibilities. I even got the GA from NRM. There was a pretty good drawing in a model mag some years ago. I have a copy of that. Early NER chimneys did have a fatter base but the top was pretty standard. No doubt F8s swapped chmneys from time to time. Check the green bible!

 

ArthurK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you were to build it P4 and paint it NER green it would look good on a certain future layout....

 

They'd all long gone by 1947...

 

(Otherwise you don't feel like making 2 do you?)

 

Mike

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any plans for sideplay on the front and rear axles? Unlike many NER classes the frames were set at 4' 0" (inside) apart throughout. Others had the frames tapered inward at the front (locos with bogies) or set parallel but narrower at the rear (0-6-2Ts and 4-6-2Ts). Perhaps your track curves are very gentle.

 

ArthurK

Edited by ArthurK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let battle commence... (well, not quite yet)

 

post-7104-0-88050800-1332017449.jpg

 

Mike, only building one and it will be in OO.

 

Arthur, I'll probably try to build the frames closer together and maybe a little taper at the ends. May also try a basic radial axlebox and try to incorporate a bit of side springing.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let battle commence... (well, not quite yet)

 

Mike, only building one and it will be in OO.

 

Arthur, I'll probably try to build the frames closer together and maybe a little taper at the ends. May also try a basic radial axlebox and try to incorporate a bit of side springing.

 

This looks fun, perhaps you need a 290 to go with it to get the full past and present effect?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This looks fun, perhaps you need a 290 to go with it to get the full past and present effect?

 

Not quite (although I have one finished and one kit to build) they were rebuilds from BTP's... :no:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, but I think some G6's out lived the F8's.

 

They were both replaced by steam railcars and EMU's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The long levity of the G6s was probably due to their Push-Pull usage. I don't think that any F8s were so fitted. As for the 290s they were not used on passinger duties although some were fitted with train brakes for stock working.

 

ArhurK

Edited by ArthurK
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've made a start! :O

 

Footplate cut out and front bufferbeam made. Next will be the rear bb followed by the footplate valances, then the frames will be started.

 

post-7104-0-92208600-1332458189.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice one! Good luck with it. There was an F8 that we ran on the late Malcolm Crawley's Thompson's End layout. It used a lot of parts from one of the George Norton (London Road now) kits. It was done many years ago but I seem to think that it was an N8, N9 or N10 and apart from a new footplate, to lose the holes where the wheels went through and new frames, most of the kit parts were about right. Again this is from memory but I think that the leading wheels were mounted in the frames and the trailing ones were on a pivoted section of frame, rather like the 0-6-2T kit was designed. The wheelbase of the 2-4-2T was about the same (or maybe was identical) with the 0-6-2 so it seemed reasonable not to bother with any pivot arrangement at the front.

 

Now, is that scratchbuilding or kit building?

Edited by t-b-g

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most likely the N8, NER class B, the F8 was class A. I had thought about modifying a kit but as the 'difficult' part, the frames, would need to be scratchbuilt I decided to do it all.

I'm thinking of just having the drivers without side play and the leading and trailing wheels with side play. My Q5 goes round some tight curves Ok so this one should be Ok.

Edited by Worsdell forever

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, definitely made a start and you also have something to show for it, which is more than I do! All I've done so far is loads of photo taking and measuring!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish you the best with this build. Have you thought about tighter front and rear wheels witht the movement on the drivers, this may stop some of the waddle with this wheel arrangement. Or are you going to use centralising springs front and rear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We were discussing the F8 at Ormesby recently after I pointed out that ours is actually an F4. The theory was advanced that the F8 is actually an F4 with smaller wheels, given that Worsdell took the drawings with him from Stratford to Darlington.

 

That may or may not be true, but you might be able to source the castings from Alan Gibson and his F4/5 kit.. I don't think John Redrup is very keen on doing spares and I'm not sure what's in Dave Alexander's range or Arthur's which might be of use.

 

Unless you're going to be turning them up yourself....which wouldn't entirely surprise me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a chimney from 247 and it matches up to the drawing ok so might use their other castings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Paul

 

Most of the castings that you will need are the same (or very similar to) those of the J24 and J73 which are in my range. I have brass castings for the Ramsbottom valves (and others) and most of the other boiler fittings. I also have white metal castings of chimney, dome, smokebox door and backhead. Drop me a PM if you are interested.

 

ArthurK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Falcon Brass also list one , hopefully better than a Jidenco version ??? they also sell the chassis seperately

Edited by micklner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Falcon Brass also list one , hopefully better than a Jidenco version ??? they also sell the chassis seperately

It will be the same, I do not think they have been updated. But for the time they were a great advance. I have nmade one or two they do make into nice locos witha little work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.