Paris

[samkiller42]

Hi All,

 

As part of my trip to France in Oct, i'm Corail Lunea'ing it from Toulouse to Paris, as such, i'm getting into Paris around 7am, but felt i should stick around Paris for a while, as it's been many many years since i last visited. Anything worth visiting or watching while i'm there. My considerations are that i'm going to be on my own, and will have luggage.

 

So, is it worth kicking around for a few hours, or should i just get on the next available Eurostar?

 

Travel Date is Weds Oct 10th.

 

Cheers,

Sam

[Pacific231G]

Paris can be magcal early in the morning though it can be a bit chilly in October. There are left luggage lockers at Gare du Nord (or were last time I was there) so maybe go there first and dump your bags then maybe just spend a few hours wandering around just enjoying being in Paris sitting in a café having a drink without bothering with the usual tourist trail stuff. If you want an actual destination a slightly off the wall choice might be the Musée des Arts et Metiers which is pretty good, has a railway gallery (though a lot of the models are oldish Jouef) and has a very curious half railway half plateway built into the floor used- before they had rubber tyred trolleys- to move the exhibits around without damaging the floor of the town chateau it's in. Just be aware when you go back to Gare du Nord that the Metro is fairly slow and the UK Border Agency there can be very slow- they almost caused me to miss my Eurostar last time I went that way en route from Bordeaux- so allow plenty of time and maybe don't try to pack too much into whatever time you have.

[The Stationmaster]

Very similar - first get yourself and luggage to the Gare du Nord and get the bags into the Left Luggage (which I too am presuming is still operational?). Then breakfast - some places near the station are very pricey for what they are although the Relais Nord (on the left as you look at the front of the station from outside) used to be quite reasonable and considerably less expensive than various places in the opposite direction but obviously the further you get from the station the cheaper prices tend to be. Eating on the station is variable in price and what you get for it, the Alize is good but pricey (assuming it is still going). Looking at Google Maps the Relais Nord is now Chez Clement so might have changed somewhat?? Incidentally there used to be quite a good breakfast in the Terminus Nord hotel opposite the station front but I haven't got a clue about how much it would be likely to cost.

 

If you fancy buying some food & wine for a d-i-y breakfast there is an excellent market (Marche St Quentin) on the nearby Boulevard de Magenta on the corner of Rue des Pets Hotels - easy to find on Google Maps and a fairly close walk from the station. There are now no model railway shops in the vicinity as far as I'm aware - unless one has opened in the past couple of years.

 

If you have a railway interest the Gare De L'Est is still fascinating and has much of the atmosphere, still, from its rebuilding in the interwar years and is fairly close to Gare du Nord so easy to walk to but I think nowadays possibly better to stick to the main thoroughfares and not take the shortcut.

 

Main think to remember - as already noted - is to think about time. The Metro is not a quick means of getting around over short distances and while the RER is much faster the walk to get to some of it at Gare du Nord is more like a route march. And allow plenty of time for check-in. If you're at the station with time on your hands the larger bookstall near the Alize in roughly the centre of the back of the old concourse is the best one for model and prototype railway mags.

[Gwiwer]

I always enjoy the morning procession into Gare de L'est which as others say has a lot of charm and variety but do heed to advice about sticking to main streets. That quarter is "home" to a fair number of somewhat seedy characters, mostly very young, who enjoy preying on tourists.

 

Gare du Nord can be a parade of expensive high-speed hardware which looks good lined up but lacks the charisma of the loco-hauled and regional services down the road.

 

When things quieten down I'd suggest Metro to somewhere in the Latin Quarter where you can enjoy coffee and croissants perhaps with a view of Notre Dame and then a visit to the Musee d'Orsay (itself a former railway station) where the view out from inside the clock across Paris to Sacre Cour is worth making the visit.

[Fat Controller]

I've never had any hassle from the ex-colonial inhabitants in Paris, in the four years that my wife was living and working there. If there is a problem for tourists in France, it comes from Eastern Europeans from some of the poorer countries who indulge in pick-pocketing on the Metro and elsewhere- I've had several attempt to 'dip' me.

The 'Alize' at GdN, like many buffets at French stations, has been taken over by Autogrill, the Italian motorway service operator; the last time I tried using it, they claimed they couldn't do any hot food, as they'd run out of gas.. This was at 20:00, so we decanted to one of the cafes opposite, which are all pretty reliable.

If you want a memorable view of Paris, it's worth going to the Tour de Montparnasse, immediately in front of Montparnasse station- it has a viewing floor which enables you to look down on the Eiffel tower, and which is enclosed so you can avoid the worst of the weather.

[Gwiwer]

My experience of the "colonial"members of the Paris street community has been varied. But around Gare du Nord / Gare de L'est I found on successive visits that they were mainly young (some teens, often younger) and held hands out expecting to receive at least a cash handout. Ignoring them resulted - sometimes - in you being tripped up from behind while a firm "Non" and walking decisively onwards was always let go.

 

Everyone's experience will differ. Paris should not be discounted on the grounds that it has young street beggars and pickpockets. Most major cities do. The point is to be aware of them, their techniques and an appropriate response.

 

Paris can be dirty by the standards of some other cities. The same area in question stinks of human urine for example as those same young people think it normal to relieve themselves in shop doorways. Parisienne culture also accepts the feeding of pet dogs at restaurant and cafe tables. While I don't like that either I accept it is part of their culture and when in Rome ..... or Paris .....

[SNCF stephen]

If the model shops on Rue Douai are open then you could visit 5 within the space of 100 metres.

[Joseph_Pestell]

rue de Douai is walkable from Gare du Nord. About 15 mins, I think.

 

None of the Paris stations are as interesting as they used to be. But since you are arriving at Austerlitz, worth having a bit of a look round as plenty of loco-hauled arrivals early morning. In my day of course, night trains from the SW were mostly hauled by 2D2s.

 

Line 2 of the Metro is good as quite a lot above ground with views over Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est.

 

Pont Cardinet, first station out of St Lazare is a good spotting location but not so interesting as when it had 3rd rail Standard units to Auteuil.

 

The other line which retained 3rd rail for so long, Issy to La Defense, is worth a visit if trams interest you.

[The Stationmaster]

I've never had any hassle from the ex-colonial inhabitants in Paris, in the four years that my wife was living and working there. If there is a problem for tourists in France, it comes from Eastern Europeans from some of the poorer countries who indulge in pick-pocketing on the Metro and elsewhere- I've had several attempt to 'dip' me.

The 'Alize' at GdN, like many buffets at French stations, has been taken over by Autogrill, the Italian motorway service operator; the last time I tried using it, they claimed they couldn't do any hot food, as they'd run out of gas.. This was at 20:00, so we decanted to one of the cafes opposite, which are all pretty reliable.

If you want a memorable view of Paris, it's worth going to the Tour de Montparnasse, immediately in front of Montparnasse station- it has a viewing floor which enables you to look down on the Eiffel tower, and which is enclosed so you can avoid the worst of the weather.

Sorry to hear the latter - the upstairs bit of the Alize was pricey but extremely good a few years ago when in original ownership.

 

And yes - Eastern Europeans are the menace in Paris not the North Africans. Last time we were in Paris there seemed to be a plague of them and the first thing they said to anyone they accosted was 'Do you speak English?' to which it was advisable to reply in any language but English or just give an extremely puzzled look and a shrug.

 

There is a time when the North Africans need to be watched and that is when there is a security alert on - easy to see if one is on operation as there are police going round unaccompanied except for a couple of armed soldiers. If they stop North Africans to search them they tend to be very rough and rifles tend to swing about a bit sometimes so keep well clear just in case the rifle butt comes flying in your direction by accident - knowing Parisiens pass by well out of range on such occasions.

 

But notwithstanding our various tales of woe Paris can be very interesting if you've never explored it in the past (it just used to get a tad boring when going there frequently but with no time to explore - as was my lot for some years).

[trisonic]

 

 

But notwithstanding our various tales of woe Paris can be very interesting if you've never explored it in the past (it just used to get a tad boring when going there frequently but with no time to explore - as was my lot for some years).

 

Rome is rather like that too. Given the opportunity to explore and it opens right up in front of you (people are friendly as well).

 

Best, Pete.

[Fat Controller]

Sorry to hear the latter - the upstairs bit of the Alize was pricey but extremely good a few years ago when in original ownership.

 

And yes - Eastern Europeans are the menace in Paris not the North Africans. Last time we were in Paris there seemed to be a plague of them and the first thing they said to anyone they accosted was 'Do you speak English?' to which it was advisable to reply in any language but English or just give an extremely puzzled look and a shrug.

 

There is a time when the North Africans need to be watched and that is when there is a security alert on - easy to see if one is on operation as there are police going round unaccompanied except for a couple of armed soldiers. If they stop North Africans to search them they tend to be very rough and rifles tend to swing about a bit sometimes so keep well clear just in case the rifle butt comes flying in your direction by accident - knowing Parisiens pass by well out of range on such occasions.

 

But notwithstanding our various tales of woe Paris can be very interesting if you've never explored it in the past (it just used to get a tad boring when going there frequently but with no time to explore - as was my lot for some years).

I found Welsh to be quite useful when dealing with the East Europeans..

One feature of the Alize remains unchanged- the full length window on to the concourse next to the urinal. They now charge to use the loos, but seem to have given up on cleaning them- they were pretty dire when I was there last.

Austerlitz is an interesting station. Next to the main terminal platforms, the RER towards Gare d'Orsay drops into tunnel- originally the line crossed the forecourt on the level. Another curious feature is the Metro line which crosses above the platform ends at 90 degrees to the buffer-stops.

[samkiller42]

Thank you all for the comments, recommendations and insight.

 

I didn't go up the Eiffel Tower when i last visited, so that's a possible idea as well, Weather and Funds dependant.

 

Cheers,

Sam

[Fat Controller]

Thank you all for the comments, recommendations and insight.

 

I didn't go up the Eiffel Tower when i last visited, so that's a possible idea as well, Weather and Funds dependant.

 

Cheers,

Sam

Unfortunately, the Eiffel tower queue would probably take most of your morning- that's why I suggested the Tour Montparnasse.

[EddieB]

Agree with not being to hasty to move on from Austerlitz, what it lacks in quantity is usually compensated by quality! (I'm not sure what they currently use as station pilots - my last time there was BB8100s).

[trisonic]

Interesting - I've never been to Gare d'Austerlitz. Just googled it, looks delightful. Much quieter since the South Eastern TGV's leave from elsewhere?

 

Best, Pete.

[Joseph_Pestell]

SE TGVs have always left from Gare de Lyon so not much change due to that. There were even a few loco-hauled services diverted from GdL to Austerlitz but I think those are all now going to Bercy.

 

More generally, the advent of TGVs has led to a reduction in overnight trains many of which came into Austerlitz. And, of course, TGVs from Bordeaux, Toulouse, etc go into Montparnasse whereas the trains they replaced went to Austerlitz.

[Fat Controller]

Interesting - I've never been to Gare d'Austerlitz. Just googled it, looks delightful. Much quieter since the South Eastern TGV's leave from elsewhere?

 

Best, Pete.

The South-Eastern TGVs have always used either Gare de Lyon; Austerlitz serves the old Paris-Orlean routes; those to Toulouse via Limoges, for example. Until LGV Atlantique opened, it would also have sent trains to Bordeaux, but these are now TGVs running on conventional lines beyond Tours. It still deals with sleeper trains to South-Western France and beyond (including the Talgo one to Spain). A lot of the daytime trains are 'renversible' (push-pull), so station pilots are normally only required for the overnight trains. The 8100s have gone, I believe- when I was there last, a BB63000 diesel was being used.

[trisonic]

I meant that Gare d'Austerlitz must have been much busier before the advent of the TGV's.........strange how inflections even in writing can come over.

 

Will try and pay a visit next time I'm in town....any other interesting locales tucked away in Paris that have not been mentioned, worth a punt?

 

Cheers, guys, Pete.

[Fat Controller]

I meant that Gare d'Austerlitz must have been much busier before the advent of the TGV's.........strange how inflections even in writing can come over.

 

Will try and pay a visit next time I'm in town....any other interesting locales tucked away in Paris that have not been mentioned, worth a punt?

 

Cheers, guys, Pete.

Sorry- my misunderstanding...

Just north of Gare de Lyon, there is an elevated urban trail that uses the old line that used to run to Bastille

http://goo.gl/maps/eCSKz

It's shown as 'La Coulee Verte' parallel to Avenue Daumesnil.

On the subject of Gare d'Austerlitz, you might like to investigate this link, which has some old aerial views of the area:-

http://forum.e-train.fr/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47677&start=90

[trisonic]

Ah, Yes! Like the High Line in Manhattan which just keeps getting better (and longer): http://www.thehighline.org/

 

Some great stuff on that site if you dig into it.

 

Thanks, Brian. Pete.

[AndyH]

Hi all,

I used to live in Paris for 7 years, so agree with quite a few of the points.

Austerlitz is great for variety of stock and motive power. ligne 10 from gare du nord direction place d'italie. (The neighbouring Jardin des Plantes has the galerie de l'evolution which is good for 30minutes if raining).

 

Gare de lyon is good for TGV spotters of all sorts. As mentioned the Promenade Plantée, is just a lovely walk in the morning, and there was an interesting architectural and museum modelmakers in one of the arches below, and is minutes from gare de lyon. Other remnants of the Petite Ceinture remain.

 

Some of the stations on ligne 14 on the metro, from gare du nord ligne 4 direction porte d'orleans and change at chatelet, are interesting and Bercy, the former wine warehouses now a park is quite good (links to the Seine and a great new bridge that goes to the Bibliothèque Nationale. If you had time one of the TGV depots for gare de Lyon and gare de Bercy is just a 10minute walk along the rue de charenton (used to live off there).

 

RER from gare de l'est to noisy le sec is short and cheap but lots to see sometimes.

La Vie du Rail shop tucked away on rue d’Amsterdam near Saintr Lazaire, the station is not to be recommended in the morning rush, slightly mad.

 

Could go on.

Hope this helps.

Andy

[Fat Controller]

Andy,

La Vie du Rail shop has moved over the last few months- I saw some mention in the French press, but didn't where they'd moved to. I doubt if it would be anywhere quite as attractive as the 'hotel particulaire' they were housed in. Nearby is 'Au Pullman', a reasonable shop, en-route to rue du Douai. Other shops are to be found at :-

rue de Reamur- Central Trains, which stocks the major manufacturers, and also stocks a lot of spares. It's also just around the corner from one of the two best food-shopping streets in Paris, rue Montorgeuil.

Boulevard du Temple- M Citerne. A small, somewhat old-fashioned shop, which Lynne described as 'very friendly and helpful' when she went looking for something for me.

[samkiller42]

So my travel is all booked for October, Still working on my travel into London, but the fun commences at 06:52, With the following:

Eurostar

Paris Nord

RER Line D

Paris Gare Du Lyon

TGV Duplex

Marseille

Corail Teoz

Montpellier

TGV

Carcassonne

 

And for my return at 22:32,

Toulouse

Corail Lunea

Paris Austelitz

A 4 hour stay in Paris, the reason for this thread.

Then on to:

Gare Du Nord

Eurostar

London

Then it's work my way home on pretty useless 377's.

 

Hopefully chucking in some local TER, TGV France/Spain, and i'm aiming for some Renfe action too, And with 8 days to fit it all in.... simples.

 

Sam

[BB17005]

My personal preference for rush hour would be Gare de St Lazare.

If you enjoy loco-hauled stock , 80% (I'm 2 years off ) of formations are commuter push-pull with the locos on the concourse end !

I haven't seen the morning arrivals but I have seen the evening departures ,30 trains in 30 minutes !

 

The loco propelled stock will be the newish BB 27300s , I'd hope that there are still some BB 17000s still around though as there are still a good 70 on the books.

 

The Seine Maritime trains, Rouen/Le Havre will probably be in the hands of the BB 15000s now as all but 7 of the BB 16000s have been withdrawn.

The only units there last time I was there were Z 6400s.

 

My mouths started watering !

 

Have fun !

[JeffP]

Ten years since I was in Paris, but I stayed for four nights with wife and friends.

While they stayed abed, I got up every morning at 0630 and went to a different station for a look.

Austerlitz was my favourite, but St Lazare was great too.

 

I also walked along the easternmost platform from gare de Lyon, down therough the TGV la Poste shed into what used to be Charolais depot.

I did the same from off the Metro/RER station one stop out of Austerlitz, (Boulevard Massena?) down to Paris Sud Ouest. Both sheds alowed me to wander round and photograph what I wanted. I doubt you could do that now.

 

Gare de l'Est was good too, with trains coming in with portions from Moscow amongst others!