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Wright writes.....


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8 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Jesse,

 

I don't know; the way you describe yourself! You're none of those things...................

 

Everything's BR, so probably not. 

 

One Hornby Brit that needs fixing.

One Bachmann K3 (a good runner).

One Bachmann B1 (typical split chassis wobble).

One Bachmann J39 (A good runner).

One Millholme 2P (heavy, and with a K's HP2M motor! Yet, it runs).

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

No Tony it's clear to see he's a Big Sh1 t . :o

76039 a  34E  Neasden Locomotive from 1954 until 1962.  That I saw regularly.

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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Well,

 

The K3 has sold (to Wingman, above). 

 

41660836_BachmannK3.jpg.e735eb6e8eec982a4cb3fd31f950e9e9.jpg

 

Anyone interested in the weathered J39?

 

1321427023_BachmannJ39.jpg.7c3c3beea02245179b2348bc38fb6518.jpg

 

A very nice runner......

 

 

Ordinarily I'd be very interested in the J39, but it would need a repaint and it would be a crying shame to disturb such a finish

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7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Comet do the refurbished H38, which would be right for the 1940s.

 

Good evening St Enodoc,

 

Unfortunately, Comet made a bit of a cock up with the refurb H38. The windows for the first class bays are larger than the third class bay windows on the real thing. Comet have etched them all the same size as the first class windows. The result is that the carriage looks far too open with too much glazing real estate and not enough room for the pillars. As a result of this, the window have been re spaced and are now in the wrong place. The Hammond etch is the best, if you can find one, but it is only suitable for the carriage in pre 1947 condition.

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6 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Ian,

 

to be fair to Hornby, their Crimson and cream is OK and quite nicely executed. They could do with a more realistic finish though, as they do have a very plastic look. Their war time / post-war greens, or rather green is a bit naff, they could benefit from a repaint, you have all the advantages of painting your own.

 

RC424, is that acrylic? I hardly ever touch the stuff. When compared to enamels, I find acrylics generally too coarse if a  good smooth surface is required. They are very convenient for anything black, like a bogie that will be weathered. Even then, I only use them if time is an issue. If I had a problem with a slightly gritty enamel pigment, I would recommend either a gloss  varnish mix with the paint in the airbrush cup/bottle, or a slow build up of very thin layers on a low pressure. The latter might work with acrylics, I'm not sure.

 

Acrylics can give a less than smooth finish when sprayed if it's too warm. The paint dries in the air before it hits the model. 

Edited by Anglian
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20 minutes ago, Anglian said:

 

Acrylics can give a less than smooth finish when sprayed if it's too warm. The paint dries in the air before it hits the model. 

 

Good evening Anglian,

 

that applies to any paint, especially if you are spraying from too far away,  with the wrong paint mix on too high a pressure. You can compensate for temperature to some extent by working closer with a wetter mix and adjusting your pressure to suit. Inevitably, enamels are much more adaptable to taking advantage of the subtle control possible with an airbrush. The acrylics would require lots of tedious fathing about with retarders and other such chemical warfare stuff.

Edited by Headstock
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37 minutes ago, gr.king said:

And now for something a little different...

 

These items haven't been just a lockdown project, by any means, the Restaurant Composite with central kitchen having been on the go over a year ago, and the Restaurant Pantry third started well before the end of last year. Those who peruse the modelling section of lner.info may already have seen plenty of what's been going on, and an image plus very brief account of the RC has recently appeared in the LNER Society journal. I've been tackling the job the hard way of course, without the aid of any kits, and with only incomplete information available, that, plus life's many distractions, accounting for the very long time taken to get this far. It hasn't all been my own work, several others having helped with information, Mike Trice having come up with some lovely 3D printed bogie sides and GN buffers, as well as Dave Sutton having conjured up etched bogie frames. The carriage sides, ends and roofs seen here are home produced resin castings. The models are not complete in every detail, and they never will be, as getting this far has taken enough work, although I will add one or two final touches. I'm glad that the naked eye does not normally see anything like the number of imperfections that these macro photographs reveal!

 

Two twelve-wheel East Coast Joint Stock clerestory roof carriages of 1900 vintage, in the condition in which they may have been in the mid 1930s:

 

IMG_1415rmw.jpg.a2cf21f5d9d263489a1fd28983b3503a.jpgIMG_1395rmw.jpg.c7d8dec034dde3a902f2065c93aa3f60.jpgIMG_1397rmw.jpg.1b425a70273b0fe92a7c8fe356f9e804.jpgIMG_1402rmw.jpg.63e222a44af11e5de9735c2ff0c4d71d.jpgIMG_1413rmw.jpg.5d061f862984e49aa5a0b5848f6c0860.jpg

Wonderful work, Graeme,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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I've spent part of this morning titivating the old Millholme 2P, donated by a chum to raise funds for CRUK.

 

1010460304_MillholmeLMS2P01small.jpg.ddc1850eb49b9d13c918ca4351dff931.jpg

 

895929837_MillholmeLMS2P02small.jpg.9bbc5c2258a861afb766204d0305035c.jpg

 

I've no idea who built it/painted it, but it now runs quite smoothly (despite its K's HP2M motor!). It's got Romford drivers, which help.

 

Using a cliche, it is what it is.

 

I'm tempted to keep it myself, and donate to CRUK personally. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

I have found a few more of Dad's photos. All taken in March 1948. Three were on a shed visit to Annesley on 28th March 1948 and the last was a 3F on the 1.05pm Mansfield to Nottingham train on 10th March. Locos are J1 No 5009, J50 8935, A5 9816 and 3F 3529.

 

976596623_J50Annesley1948.jpg.7b6d7388131747d165e2e4b2a6b27c00.jpg

 

How often do modellers run a 3F on a passenger train?

 

Great photos - but interesting lamp storage on the J50.

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1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

 

Great photos - but interesting lamp storage on the J50.

 

Yes, I had spotted them. I am not sure if it was just a place to keep them before lamping up to go off shed or if they were kept there during use.

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8 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Yes, RC424 is one of Humbrol's  acrylic railway colours. My preference is for Railmatch enamels, but I've never seen that in Australia (certainly not Perth) and I don't have a cream. I have about 5 pots of the Humbrol cream (and 6 of their crimson - but that seems even grittier) that I bought from a model shop that closed down about 2 years ago. Neither of them brush very well either. Your tip of mixing a bit of varnish in the cup has made me think maybe I could try the same with an acrylic varnish on a practice piece; thanks. I also have a variety of acrylic thinners so I'll have a play over the weekend.

When I painted my A2 I decided to use an Humbrol  Acryclic (Western Green) because I thought it slightly better than the Tamiya Dark Green.  After some playing I found that using distilled water and a nearly 50:50 mix ration it goes on thinly requiring multiple sprays but not too badly at all.   One thing that did catch me was how fast it separates, literally 10 minutes.  Fortunately it was an early coat so I was going to have to put another coat on anyway.  Another problem I found was that due to the thinness of the mixture it could run into corners and would actually separate out as it dried.  FYI I do not have a pressure gauge on my compressor and I cannot alter the pressure which is fixed at about 20 psi.  Lowering the pressure might have minimized the latter problem but I think care with spraying is more important.

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13 hours ago, Wingman Mothergoose said:

I’ve been using Ford Rosso Red as BR crimson, seems to look the part 51ECAA6C-88D6-4F66-A53F-82A6BC580042.jpeg.31d4abc0aeb73fc76376a3be72db3d41.jpeg


Chris G

Yes, but that's a UK colour - we can't get those down here.

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8 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Good evening St Enodoc,

 

Unfortunately, Comet made a bit of a cock up with the refurb H38. The windows for the first class bays are larger than the third class bay windows on the real thing. Comet have etched them all the same size as the first class windows. The result is that the carriage looks far too open with too much glazing real estate and not enough room for the pillars. As a result of this, the window have been re spaced and are now in the wrong place. The Hammond etch is the best, if you can find one, but it is only suitable for the carriage in pre 1947 condition.

Thanks Andrew, I didn't know that. Nevertheless my Comet kit will get built and used on the layout in due course. Only you and I will know...

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6 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Thanks Andrew, I didn't know that. Nevertheless my Comet kit will get built and used on the layout in due course. Only you and I will know...

 

Good morning St Enodoc,

 

Apart from not getting ripped off, I have no interest in the dodgy Comet kit. Your secret is safe with me, honest.

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Having taken a shot of the old Millholme 2P from a different angle yesterday, I've had a go at getting pictures of the other 2Ps on LB (from a similar angle).

 

1324314237_2P40454small.jpg.898acac3328525977c86a7385b720c5c.jpg

 

This is also a Millholme 2P, which I altered to make a Midland-built example (RH-drive), adding a MR tender from SE Finecast.

 

1295005282_2P40585small.jpg.9fe680a840dc8504ded6758472ca7119.jpg

 

A Palitoy 2P loco/tender body on top of Comet frames ( I gave the tender-drive nonsense away!). I'll have to alter the shedplate; were any 2Ps ever shedded at Southend? 

 

Both these 2Ps are more-detailed examples than the one shown yesterday (I haven't decided yet whether to keep it or not). 

 

410089111_4F44423small.jpg.17e62f6c1d7e03fe3f606d1d9ea34c85.jpg

 

And another MR-style loco on a Notts-Lynn service. 

 

This is the ancient Acro kit I built a year or so ago. 

 

I'm always experimenting with new photographic angles on LB, even though it means trying to prop the camera up in awkward places. 

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13 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Having taken a shot of the old Millholme 2P from a different angle yesterday, I've had a go at getting pictures of the other 2Ps on LB (from a similar angle).

 

1324314237_2P40454small.jpg.898acac3328525977c86a7385b720c5c.jpg

 

This is also a Millholme 2P, which I altered to make a Midland-built example (RH-drive), adding a MR tender from SE Finecast.

 

1295005282_2P40585small.jpg.9fe680a840dc8504ded6758472ca7119.jpg

 

A Palitoy 2P loco/tender body on top of Comet frames ( I gave the tender-drive nonsense away!). I'll have to alter the shedplate; were any 2Ps ever shedded at Southend? 

 

Both these 2Ps are more-detailed examples than the one shown yesterday (I haven't decided yet whether to keep it or not). 

 

410089111_4F44423small.jpg.17e62f6c1d7e03fe3f606d1d9ea34c85.jpg

 

And another MR-style loco on a Notts-Lynn service. 

 

This is the ancient Acro kit I built a year or so ago. 

 

I'm always experimenting with new photographic angles on LB, even though it means trying to prop the camera up in awkward places. 

 

How does the smoke from the stove in the signal box get from the chimney inside the box to the chimney on the outside of the roof? I have just been building a pair of MR Signalboxes, so I have been paying close attention to such things. Usually, the stove would be below wherever the chimney comes out on top.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, micklner said:

Not too sure about what the multicolor Beach tent is being used for by the box, and the strange shaped  back to front buffers !!.

 

Multicoloured? Beach tent?

 

It's a corrugated iron 'thunder box'! 

 

Based on a prototype picture, it had once been painted white, but was obviously fading. Perhaps I should paint the roof.

 

'Strange shaped back to the front buffers'? I assume on the Acro 4F. Have you ever built an Acro kit? 

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2 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

How does the smoke from the stove in the signal box get from the chimney inside the box to the chimney on the outside of the roof? I have just been building a pair of MR Signalboxes, so I have been paying close attention to such things. Usually, the stove would be below wherever the chimney comes out on top.

 

 

 

 

Good afternoon Tony,

 

I have no idea. 

 

The stack is in the right place (from the prototype) and I just put the stove on the rear wall, assuming a crank in the pipe internally. You can see the stove through the windows.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited by Tony Wright
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