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2 hours ago, Kirby Uncoupler said:

Hi Everyone,

    Even if I lived to 150, I still wouldn't have enough time to convert all my kitbuilt and RTR OO models to P4. So being a one-man-band, i'll keep the P4 for branch lines and smaller projects, my main line layout will have to be using the best in OO. OO RTR has vastly improved in the last 20 years, so I have reclaimed some old baseboards from my previous layout, for further use. The track had been laid on 5mm foam rubber, plus rectangular holes had been cut for Peco point motors, which of course, will now be in the wrong place.

    I'm not sure if Tony, and others, will approve of this technique, but rather than cutting out bespoke wooden plugs to fill the voids, I applied sticky tape to the undersides, then sprayed in small blobs of expanding foam. After a few minutes, the foam pushes into all the recesses, the tape is strong enough to stop it dripping, and the excess rises up like a mushroom. About an hour or so later, I cut the excess off with a razor saw, leaving the top surface flush, ready for an underlay. The old shredded foam is bagged, and kept for scenery.

20200930_140104.jpg.fb8f194f3b69dcd11de7081ce02d7838.jpg

20200930_140137.jpg.a1737c3e714f6e3f624daa6778a43d3a.jpg

20200930_140948.jpg.24c5263aba93d3ecffee8cb2d0979f5d.jpg

 

I find cork sheet a bit too firm, and these days quite expensive, i've preferred foam rubber for years, which gives the track a bit of vertical movement, even after ballasting. 

These days I live on the Isle Of Wight, and i've run out of foam rubber, and haven't found a source here, and then there's Covid, I haven't been on the mainland since December! Then it dawned on me, I have reams of free bubblewrap from deliveries, would that do the job? So I have glued several sections on with impact adhesive, bubbles downwards, which leaves a lovely flat surface for track and ballast. Time will tell, if I glued it on the walls, I could make my own padded cell.

                                                   Cheers, Brian.

 

1278598174_LayoutProgress20200906_150731.jpg.32c6a373d374c7133acbd18b271e3516.jpg

 

Enjoy popping the bubbles when you pin the track down!

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1 hour ago, Theakerr said:

The mystery of the electronic media.  On Tuesday I made two posts, one is on the thread the other seems to have disappeared.   So, to the other.  Does anyone have a way of removing the overhead electric warning flashes from a Hornby loco without damaging the finish?

Thanks

There isn't a way of doing it without affecting the finish to some degree.  T-Cut on a cotton bud will remove them but will leave glossy polished areas behind. 

 

That can be dealt with fairly easily if you intend to weather the loco but if you want to retain the pristine factory finish, it will require the application of some satin/matt varnish over the patches and a successful match will rely on both skill and luck. 

 

The treated patches will usually remain visible, at least from some angles, and the only certain solution is a new coat of varnish over the entire loco.   

 

John  

Edited by Dunsignalling
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12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Jonathan,

 

What is 'ridiculous money' for a DJH Raven A2 kit? I paid £110.00 last year for the one shown, which considering it has a full set of wheels (though not the correct 12-spoke bogie ones) and a motor/gear-mount seemed exceptional value. That said, I won't use the open-framed D13 and Romford gears/etched-mount when I build it, saving those as spares. I'll fit a DJH motor/gearbox.

 

I wonder whether the limited edition of 175 pieces was for all three kits combined (mine is no.156, and suits the first two) or 175 of each type? I can't believe that 175 would be made of the one with the Gresley boiler/cab (which I've never seen). 

 

I suppose it would be possible to buy an A3 boiler and cab from SE Finecast, remove the superheater header covers and extend the smokebox, and make a larger saddle to make CITY OF RIPON from the DJH kit I have. I'd have to make the Cartazzi frames, of course, but I already have an appropriate eight-wheeled tender.

 

Or, since I have no need of a Raven A2, offer the kit for sale on ebay (not that I know how to!). Complete with the correct 12-spoke bogie wheels!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I have nearly finished building a DJH "City Of Ripon" with Nick Easton etches for the footplate and cab, plus SE Finecast A1 boiler with the smokebox machined off and a new scratch brass replacement.  The smokebox saddle is also a scratch replacement.   

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Jrg I am interested in your "shopping list" once you are all the way through... I bet the parts would more than exceed the the value of the unbuilt kit. Though yours will be a heap more detailed and accurate than the original! I have been thinking over the discussion but I dont think I would be interested in building any of the versions at the end of the day!... now I just need to finish off what I have already started! 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Morgan,

 

The box 'proclaims' that only 175 kits were made as a limited edition. It's unlikely that more were offered, but I've no idea.

 

This 'limited edition' tag can be 'abused' (not by DJH I'm sure) but by slightly altering a model's specification, and then offering it again. In the die-cast field, I've photographed too many items from 'limited editions' not to remain sceptical. In the same way I'm always suspicious of 'collectors' editions'. 

 

You've made a lovely job of that A2. I'll bet the person you built it for is delighted.

 

They were, indeed, very long; with an eight-wheeled tender, the longest British Pacific? Longer than a Princess Royal? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Dear All,

I  have a friend who has a limited edition model which comes with a certificate that states ‘Number 107 of a limited run of 100’

(can’t actually remember the numbers but I think you’ll get my drift)

Robert

 

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I’m currently building an Isinglass kit for a LNER buffet car, E43134E, as converted from an ECJS open third. This seems to have some strange roof furniture as shown in the picture below. (This is a heavy crop of a photo on Steve Banks’ web site here https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/347-lner-buffet-cars. I will remove if requested).

 

E8EE6320-510F-4842-BDB6-3E5B26A6FF9D.jpeg.e0d0ab8a354cab95299a9848dde0d268.jpeg

 

There is what looks like a standard LNER rectangular monsoon vent but nearer the camera are two objects which look like miniature torpedos. Does anyone know what they are? I intend to make them out of an old sprue turned down at the ends but if there is a commercial source anyone knows of that might be a better bet.
 

Andy

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11 hours ago, Theakerr said:

The mystery of the electronic media.  On Tuesday I made two posts, one is on the thread the other seems to have disappeared.   So, to the other.  Does anyone have a way of removing the overhead electric warning flashes from a Hornby loco without damaging the finish?

Thanks

 

There is considerable variation in how well numbers, lining and warning flashes are applied to the basic paint finish.  Some are able to be removed far more readily than others.

 

I first try using a dulled Stanley knife blade, not totally blunt but where the sharp point has started to wear down.  Holding this almost flat to the surface (avoid scratching the paint finish with the pointy bit),  very gently scrape the surface of the flashes and see if they start to wear away.  Some will come away in thin layers creating a fine powdery residue, sometimes they almost ‘pop’ off, but a bit of patience and care will often do the trick.  Try removing the red flash from its white background first, this will get you into the technique without touching the base paint finish.

 

If the application is too firmly affixed for this method, then as already suggested, T-cut will remove it, but leaves a polished area behind.

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1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

There is what looks like a standard LNER rectangular monsoon vent but nearer the camera are two objects which look like miniature torpedos. Does anyone know what they are?

 

Andy,

 

The best suggestion I've had so far has been gas flues.   On the original picture it is possible to see that this looks like a single pipe passing through the roof then branching into two, each turning down almost to the roof again (presumably when in motion that created a draught to draw fumes out of the pipe).

 

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36 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

For info, the following page on said gentleman's website has a very useful aerial view of a catering vehicle (departing Newcastle), including the shape of the 'Monsoon' vent (I had to tackle one myself recently)

https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/266-lner-restaurant-cars

Yes, I had noted that picture - unfortunately no ‘torpedos’ in it! The best bet for the monsoon vents are the Mike Trice shapeways 3D prints If you can afford the outrageous postage costs.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KYXFLPQC4/lner-restaurant-ventilators-18?optionId=59976012&li=shops
 

 

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14 hours ago, Theakerr said:

The mystery of the electronic media.  On Tuesday I made two posts, one is on the thread the other seems to have disappeared.   So, to the other.  Does anyone have a way of removing the overhead electric warning flashes from a Hornby loco without damaging the finish?

Thanks

It is funny that you should ask that question as I have just tried the T-Cut method on a Princess body. Not very clear photos from my phone, 1st photo is of the untouched side.

 

IMG_0954.jpg.22146f74bd1ca8964715a9d74e9321ac.jpg

 

Second photo of the other side with almost removed number (and some rivet detail)  and removed warning flash with resultant polished area.

 

IMG_0953.jpg.53a8fe272bde25f27c3ffc6edcf54025.jpg

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33 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Yes, I had noted that picture - unfortunately no ‘torpedos’ in it! The best bet for the monsoon vents are the Mike Trice shapeways 3D prints If you can afford the outrageous postage costs.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KYXFLPQC4/lner-restaurant-ventilators-18?optionId=59976012&li=shops
 

 

I only needed one so I made me own! Not too difficult once I had the picture to work from

(cruel close up)

20201002_124702.jpg

Edited by LNER4479
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3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

I’m currently building an Isinglass kit for a LNER buffet car, E43134E, as converted from an ECJS open third. This seems to have some strange roof furniture as shown in the picture below. (This is a heavy crop of a photo on Steve Banks’ web site here https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/347-lner-buffet-cars. I will remove if requested).

 

E8EE6320-510F-4842-BDB6-3E5B26A6FF9D.jpeg.e0d0ab8a354cab95299a9848dde0d268.jpeg

 

There is what looks like a standard LNER rectangular monsoon vent but nearer the camera are two objects which look like miniature torpedos. Does anyone know what they are? I intend to make them out of an old sprue turned down at the ends but if there is a commercial source anyone knows of that might be a better bet.
 

Andy

 

Afternoon Andy,

 

Here's a better view of the roof detail on one of the GC allocation. You can see the arrangement quite clearly I think.

 

Buffet car cnversion GC section roof detail.jpg

Edited by Headstock
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The mystery of the electronic media.  On Tuesday I made two posts, one is on the thread the other seems to have disappeared.   So, to the other.  Does anyone have a way of removing the overhead electric warning flashes from a Hornby loco without damaging the finish?

Thanks

Thank Gentlemen for the replies.  I have tried using a toothpick and aircraft perspex polish with essentially no impact.  I have some t-cut and will give it a try.  I think at this point the aim will be not to remove it but to dull it down so that it doesn't jump out.  I don't mind a little weathering and will be OK with it on the front end but not so keen on the body.

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7 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Andy,

 

Here's a better view of the roof detail on one of the GC allocation. You can see the arrangement quite clearly I think.

 

Buffet car cnversion GC section roof detail.jpg

Thanks Andrew,

 

It’s interesting that your picture has a square item instead of the second cylindrical thing. The Isinglass drawing warns that different vehicles had the details in different positions. To misquote our leader ‘the joys of coach picking’!

 

Andy

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11 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

There is what looks like a standard LNER rectangular monsoon vent ...

 

Andy

Before people start incorrectly referring to these as Monsoon ventilators this is what an LNER Monsoon Ventilator looks like:

Image351.jpg.c7391dc257bea9b29320275ea6d36d87.jpg

 

The vent you are referring to is a Extractor Fan Zinc Cowl. I have (I think) posted a drawing of these previously but havn't a clue where.

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24 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks Andrew,

 

It’s interesting that your picture has a square item instead of the second cylindrical thing. The Isinglass drawing warns that different vehicles had the details in different positions. To misquote our leader ‘the joys of coach picking’!

 

Andy

 

Evening Andy,

 

I think that the 'cylindrical thing' is just an elongated type of torpedo vent, to accommodate a larger pipe. I suspect that the 'square item' is a later addition, a replacement for the same type of second T vent, that seems to be common on other Buffet conversions. The image is quite late on ( maroon drab with orange and black go faster stripes) perhaps it reflects BR's make do and mend philosophie on older stock, rather than an original feature. 

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7 minutes ago, MikeTrice said:

Before people start incorrectly referring to these as Monsoon ventilators this is what an LNER Monsoon Ventilator looks like:

 

The vent you are referring to is a Extractor Fan Zinc Cowl. I have (I think) posted a drawing of these previously but havn't a clue where.

 

'T other type I refer to as 'butterfly fan vents, for obvious reasons, but that is my own nomenclature.

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4 hours ago, grob1234 said:

Just a little tangent from me...

 

There was a discussion a while back about the Comet V2 chassis, and the Cylinder Block covers.

 

I found mine to sit low by a couple of mm, so I checked against the drawing:

IMG_7087.JPG.422019cf63eeb7ece51e60914de4b34c.JPG

 

I discovered that the comet cylinder casting was about 2mm to short:

 

IMG_7088.JPG.e189035cacd04b2e8b944812b0c97d20.JPG

 

I soldered a slug of spare whitemetal on top of the original casting, and now after dressing back, it sits perfectly:

 

IMG_7089.JPG.f6b03e43228f8570bfb838778dbec092.JPG

 

Hopefully, having not altered the gemoetry of the valve gear, it'll all work without any modification, plus I think the modified cylinder block captures the taller look of the prototype:

 

GA_at_SVR.jpg.7c1bef14adad2d7928cdb389933e16d2.jpg

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gresley_conjugated_valve_gear#/media/File:GA_at_SVR.JPG

Looks much better, Tom,

 

Has the vacuum ejector pipe broken on your model?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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25 minutes ago, MikeTrice said:

The vent you are referring to is a Extractor Fan Zinc Cowl. I have (I think) posted a drawing of these previously but havn't a clue where.

Found it:

 

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47 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Evening Andy,

 

I think that the 'cylindrical thing' is just an elongated type of torpedo vent, to accommodate a larger pipe.

I think the 'cylindrical things' are the cowls for the boiler and stove. Probably these:

243227222_IMG_9348-Adjusted.JPG.d11efe915abf49678aaee84af56f26c0.JPG

 

779974552_IMG_9350-Adjusted.JPG.845a4b31b2f66fafe8f261f84092924f.JPG

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30 minutes ago, MikeTrice said:

I think the 'cylindrical things' are the cowls for the boiler and stove. Probably these:

 

 

Evening Mike,

 

I'm sure that's what they are but not so much that shape on some. Some photographs seem to show coned ends rather than curved, similar to torpedo vents. They lack the space between the roof and the curved ends of the cowling as seen in the drawing. That could be a BR feature, as others closely resemble your drawing, as below.

 

cowling.jpg

Edited by Headstock
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15 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

as is well-known, I have no time for friction-fit drivers

 

Not wishing to re-hash previous discussions (but with 2061 pages, left with not much choice), could you please explain why Tony? I've recently started using Gibson drivers, and I think they are far superior to Marktis/Romfords in appearance - not that I think those wheels are particularly bad though.

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