Sandy Harper Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Here is the scratch built inner chassis and the WM bogie frames attached and fitted with the Peartree wheelsets. Bogies temporarily fitted to check the ride height. The rear bogie is unpowered. Sandy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Well that was an interesting exercise! I have never used Delrin drive before, but it worked, and I am quite impressed. I had a bit of a job squeezing the Delrin cog in between the gearbox and the inner frame but after filing the bushes down to leave about 1mm on the inside of the frame and carefully removing about 4 mm from the Delrin cog bush (it has a 1mm extension on one side of the cog and about 5mm on the other) it just fitted! The amount of adhesion from the bogie is quite amazing compared to just driving on one axle. I also needed to cut a big hole in the floor, to allow the motor to poke through, and added 5mm to the depth to get the bogie ride height somewhere near. Pickups were made from phosphor bronze strip and attached to a length of Paxolin which was in turn soldered to the bogie side frame. I am picking up from one side on one bogie and from the other side on the rear bogie. The rear bogie, unpowered, was built using coach disc wheels. Sandy 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Neat, but it does look awfully like the chain is going to rub on the side of the gearbox, which may not be a good thing. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 Thanks for all the 'likes' Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 I was awaiting the plates for the 'Barney' before I could take the final photographs. Here she is. Regards Sandy 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 MMMMMnnnnnn lovely model Sandy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Wonderful model. I like the tablet collector. No wonder there are always discussions about what colour a loco was painted. even using modern cameras, paints, etc. Change the lighting or angle and you end up with a loco in two different greens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Where is the luscious button when you need one? Well done, Sandy; that's very tasty. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Ex GWR railcar complete. Regards Sandy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 That is very nice looking beastie. I have always wanted to build one but the opportunity just has not arisen as yet. Hoping some one may want one, one day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Thanks Guys, Not an easy build with very basic instructions. Adding the detail takes for ever, working out where the seats go etc. The etched sides are wrong as the windows should be a few mm higher so that the cantrail red line fills the space between the cantrail and the top of the window. I have had to leave a gap to make it look right but I don't think it detracts from the overall look. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Remember this? It has now reached the top of the pile for painting. Etched primer applied and possibly some sky blue later today. Regards Sandy 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 I do, Sandy. I had to take a millimetre out of the chassis because the builder (not its owner) had set the frames with the bushes precisely 29.2mm across the faces. Great for straight test tracks but not much help on anything less than the most gentle of curves. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 I do, Sandy. I had to take a millimetre out of the chassis because the builder (not its owner) had set the frames with the bushes precisely 29.2mm across the faces. Great for straight test tracks but not much help on anything less than the most gentle of curves. Jim I suspect he had built it to 'scale' Jim from a drawing, as any frame extensions, above the footplate, in fine scale, usually need to be separate pieces due to the frames normally being narrower. In this case the frame extension between the rear of the smoke box and the leading splasher, above the footplate, was part of the chassis. As there is a prominent handle attached to the outside of the frame extension, if fitted, the chassis could not be separated from the body! I have made new frame extensions and attached them to the footplate and will remove the surplice extension from the chassis. When I ran it, before disassembly for painting, it happily negotiated 6ft curves. Good job. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) Now here is an interesting miss-calculation by the designer!! As is my usual practice with kit built locos (steam)! I build the rods first as good running emanates from them. Second job is to assemble the chassis. From the attached photo my problem was obvious straight away! If you are wondering, the kit is an Oakville 02 diesel shunter 0-6-0 and driven by a jackshaft. I had to think about how to resolve the problem and I think the easiest solution was to use Slaters 'square' bearings running in a 'U' shaped hornblock behind the cut outs in the frames. They were originally etched holes which were also too big for the bearings!!! The cut outs were made so that one side of the bearing was a close fit to one edge to stop it turning I made the six new horn blocks from some scrap etch, there was plenty of spare on the chassis etch, and after cutting out the first one to the correct size I just soldered it on to another piece of scrap and cut around it using a cutting disc in the mini drill until I had six. Remembering to leave a little metal around the inside edges so that I could get a nice sliding fit for the bearings. One of the rods needs a bit of attention!!!! Every thing is now nicely jigged up and I am awaiting the arrival of the wheels before going any further with brakes etc. The Jackshaft outside weight is a laminate of three layers of N/S with the instruction to solder one end to a length of 3/16" axle stock then quarter and solder the other end! No help there to the novice builder!!! My plan is to drill out the axle hole to take a standard 3/16" bearing then drill the bearing, through the top hat, which will be on the inside, to take a small screw that will trap the jackshaft on to the axle this will allow removal for painting and facilitate quartering. Of course I only need to do this on one side. That's the plan anyway!! The series of Photos that follow should make the process a bit clearer. I filed a flat on the top hat part of the bearing and then drilled and taped it 10BA. I decided there was not enough 'meat' in the metal to hold the screw under tension so I soldered a 10BA nut over the hole, re-taped and cut a screw to length so that it would be hidden behind the fly wheel. Regards Sandy Edited April 8, 2016 by Sandy Harper 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 (edited) Finished! Sandy Edited May 9, 2016 by Sandy Harper 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Guyan Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Wow , i am very, very impressed. Thank you so much Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Wow , i am very, very impressed. Thank you so much Tony. I have just noticed that I forgot to add the crest on the middle splasher! Now sorted!!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
auld_boot Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Neat move with the jackshaft fitting, I'll be stealing that idea when I get around to building an 06. Are you certain it's 02 shunter? The 02's I think of are 0-4-0 with no jackshaft. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 16, 2016 Author Share Posted May 16, 2016 Neat move with the jackshaft fitting, I'll be stealing that idea when I get around to building an 06. Are you certain it's 02 shunter? The 02's I think of are 0-4-0 with no jackshaft. Absolutely right! That's what you get for delving into something that you have a very shallow knowledge of! It should read a D2/12 Pre-tops. Thanks for that. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 That's a bit of kitchen towel stuck to the cab side, not solder!! Regards SAndy 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Nice looking build. I too like the way you sorted the lay shaft Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 Thanks Guys, It's an old generation kit and not without it's issues. The chassis was an almost total redesign by me to suit split axle pickup but it wouldn't have worked anyway due to axle hole size and misalignment. The cab steps did not fit, the internal steps were etched too small, and I had to make replacements out of scrap etch but otherwise the rest of the cab went together square. I'll tackle the engine bonnets next and see what that brings? regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 More like plain badly designed, although that's not untypical of some of the early kit designers. There are others who did a good job of design, and still do. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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