Sandy Harper Posted November 23, 2016 Author Share Posted November 23, 2016 I notice that the 4-4-0 looks to have been sand blasted whereas the diesel wasn't. Any particular reason why one and not the other? They were actually both grit blasted but, due to the problems I had with the chassis of the diesel, the body languished on the shelf for some considerable time and became tarnished. I cleaned it up with Scotch 3M pads and another trip through the sonic cleaner before painting. I am told that the tarnish should not affect the adherence of the paint, but! The coach was not grit blasted but there was very little excess solder on it and a wash and scrub was sufficient. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Thanks Sandy, I have a lot of tools in my workshop but i usually end up using the same half dozen tools every time as i know exactly what they will do. A sand blaster is one of those luxury tools you never know if it would be worth exploring or not. Unfortunately I don't know anyone local who'd let me play with one.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 24, 2016 Author Share Posted November 24, 2016 Thanks Sandy, I have a lot of tools in my workshop but i usually end up using the same half dozen tools every time as i know exactly what they will do. A sand blaster is one of those luxury tools you never know if it would be worth exploring or not. Unfortunately I don't know anyone local who'd let me play with one.... I'm very lucky to have one close by that I can use. As an occasional modeller I don't think you could justify the cost, and mess, they make. The grit gets everywhere and is very abrasive so you don't want it in your workshop! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 GWR Totem A An elegantly ugly wagon! Sandy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 I'd like it even more if it had the rather substantial shackles with which to anchor the load. It does look a bit blank without them. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 I'd like it even more if it had the rather substantial shackles with which to anchor the load. It does look a bit blank without them. Jim Not finished yet James! I am still trying to build a jig to fabricate the complicated shape of the shackles so that I can knock out 14 of them, all the same shape! Not quite there yet. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted November 26, 2016 Share Posted November 26, 2016 OK. I am more used to doing the detail and then the painting. More seriously, since you will need 14 of them, and I think the same design is common to a few other wagons, including the chaired sleeper wagons, it might be easier to make one and then use it as the pattern for getting them cast in brass in bulk. There may even be a small queue of people who would want them if such were available. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 26, 2016 Author Share Posted November 26, 2016 OK. I am more used to doing the detail and then the painting. More seriously, since you will need 14 of them, and I think the same design is common to a few other wagons, including the chaired sleeper wagons, it might be easier to make one and then use it as the pattern for getting them cast in brass in bulk. There may even be a small queue of people who would want them if such were available. Jim Yes, if I can build the jig that may well be a route to go down. I can get them cast in the jewelry quarter in Birmingham through a friend and at quite a reasonable rate. I have seen some of his casting work and it is very clean. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 I've never been "brave" enough to try this or other "interesting methods some folk try, has anyone tried it ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 27, 2016 Author Share Posted November 27, 2016 I've never been "brave" enough to try this or other "interesting methods some folk try, has anyone tried it ? I was less impressed with the other demo of sticking a pointed scriber into a pressurised can! Why can't you leave the can upside down for a couple of days and then spray the propellant out the nozzle? or am I missing something? Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted November 27, 2016 Share Posted November 27, 2016 (edited) I was less impressed with the other demo of sticking a pointed scriber into a pressurised can! Why can't you leave the can upside down for a couple of days and then spray the propellant out the nozzle? or am I missing something? Sandy Agreed, it rather horrified me and I certainly won't be carrying it out in that manner.I may try in out with my next can in the way you're suggesting and see what transpires. Edited November 28, 2016 by bgman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 29, 2016 Author Share Posted November 29, 2016 Look forward to the results! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 "You'll make life easier for yourself Sandy if you wipe the primer off the wheel treads while it's wet." I have found that the easiest way for me is to cut thin strips of low tack Tamiya masking tape and run it around the treads. When spraying is complete, it is a simple matter to peel off the tape to reveal clean and shiny treads with a clean line between tread and flange and between tread and front of tyre. Tamiya Plastic Model 6mm Masking Tape - TAM-87030 David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 "You'll make life easier for yourself Sandy if you wipe the primer off the wheel treads while it's wet." I have found that the easiest way for me is to cut thin strips of low tack Tamiya masking tape and run it around the treads. When spraying is complete, it is a simple matter to peel off the tape to reveal clean and shiny treads with a clean line between tread and flange and between tread and front of tyre. Tamiya Plastic Model 6mm Masking Tape - TAM-87030 David Yep! That's the way I do it David. Less mess!!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 "Yep! That's the way I do it David. Less mess!!! Sandy" Ah, yes indeed, Sandy; looking at your photo more closely, I can clearly see that now. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Hmm....probably worth giving the tape a go ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 Not an accurate representation of the original but my version of what it might have looked like between the war years. I found this Parkside kit languishing at the back of a shelf. Bought in a moment of mad enthusiasm a few years ago and then must have got distracted by something else so I thought I had better build it before it goes off!!! Lots of nice detail and very accurately moulded with everything fitting together well. Sandy 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted December 4, 2016 Share Posted December 4, 2016 The more I see of them, the Parkside wagon kits do look to be the bee's knees. One thing I like about plastic injection is the proud fixed window bolection. I think only Slaters tackled this on their early etched brass MR coach kits by providing separate bolections to be glued or soldered in a recess. I never saw it particularly well done though. Triple phase etching would sort it starting on very thick metal but it would be very expensive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 4, 2016 Author Share Posted December 4, 2016 The more I see of them, the Parkside wagon kits do look to be the bee's knees. One thing I like about plastic injection is the proud fixed window bolection. I think only Slaters tackled this on their early etched brass MR coach kits by providing separate bolections to be glued or soldered in a recess. I never saw it particularly well done though. Triple phase etching would sort it starting on very thick metal but it would be very expensive. These are ok Larry up to a point, but if you have vulnerable steps/ footboards they will not last long with handling, and need to be strengthened with brass, or something similar, but the detail is excellent and crisp. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 The GWR horse box has been put back on the shelf and the spray booth set up again. The Green Patriot, if you recall, was in 'shops for a repaint of the tender sides and cab. Lining and cab side numbers were also required as part of the refurb'. I also took the opportunity to tidy up the loco valance lining and add splasher lining that was missing. It was first into the booth for a coat of varnish, followed by the LMS coach (not in the picture. Only the roof and interior seats), GWR Totem and a second coat of Acid 8 Etch primer on the Midland 4-4-0. Something went wrong with the crimson top coat that caused a gritty finish so there was no other option but to give it a bath in the cellulose thinners and start again. Such is the life of the occasional painter!! The GWR 45XX lurking in amongst that lot was a request from a friend to return it to a DC loco from a radio controlled version. It is scratch built from Plastic with a brass chassis, ABC gearbox and Maxon motor. The batteries and control gear were housed in a box van permanently attached to the rear of the loco. The work involved removing the van, fitting pickups to the loco, fitting couplings and filling a hole in the rear bufferbeam where the wires to the motor went. It got a quick squirt of varnish to freshen it up! Whilst this lot was drying I got stuck into lining the Midland tender. Seasons greetings to all my readers Sandy 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 Merry Christmas to you and yours Sandy. Looking forward to your postings in the new year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Something not too difficult to be getting on with whilst I try and get rid of this nasty cold virus that seems to be afflicting everyone at the moment. A Scorpio GWR Serpent (an original, not the lengthened version). There are one or two issues with the kit that will need to be addressed by the builder. The sole bars have been 'Copied' on the drawing whereas they should have been 'Mirrored' before making the etching tool so the fixing for the brake ratchet is at the wrong end on one side. Easy enough to fix but, the fixing slots for the ratchet are also slightly too near the headstock which makes the brake lever too short!! So, you have some decisions to make on how to rectify!! I chose to move the ratchet rather than make new brake levers. The supporting arms for the plate over the buffer shanks is also not the correct size (centre part is too long) I chose to modify the shape rather than attempt to cut and shut or scratch build 8 new brackets. Once these anomalies have been resolved it makes up into a nice wagon. Just need a suitable load for it now. Brake ratchet re-positioned and lever correctly bent. Incorrect ratchet location and too short lever Slightly modified support struts. Regards Sandy 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 The following jobs were also completed over the holiday period. A Haywood kit of an LMS period I, D1701, Suburban composite in late LMS livery. A rebuilt Patriot 'RHYL' which entered paint shops for lining and lettering of the tender and cab plus a tidy up of the previous lining on the loco and a coat of varnish. This GWR 44xx has been scratch built from Plastic and was previously powered by R/C. The owner wanted it converting back to DC operation which required the fitting of pickups to the chassis. KInd regards Sandy 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 (edited) The following jobs were also completed over the holiday period. A Haywood kit of an LMS period I, D1701, Suburban composite in late LMS livery. Sandy, your late LMS livery never existed. 'LMS' only appeared in the middle of a coach side from 1923. From 1928, the LMS was positioned at the LH end. From 1933 simple lining was adopted and non-corridor coaches had yellow insignia. From 1937 coach ends became black. Obviously you would also need 1's on the three centre doors. Roof rain strips went almost to the very ends of the roof. Edited January 5, 2017 by coachmann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Something not too difficult to be getting on with whilst I try and get rid of this nasty cold virus that seems to be afflicting everyone at the moment. A Scorpio GWR Serpent (an original, not the lengthened version). There are one or two issues with the kit that will need to be addressed by the builder. The sole bars have been 'Copied' on the drawing whereas they should have been 'Mirrored' before making the etching tool so the fixing for the brake ratchet is at the wrong end on one side. Easy enough to fix but, the fixing slots for the ratchet are also slightly too near the headstock which makes the brake lever too short!! So, you have some decisions to make on how to rectify!! I chose to move the ratchet rather than make new brake levers. The supporting arms for the plate over the buffer shanks is also not the correct size (centre part is too long) I chose to modify the shape rather than attempt to cut and shut or scratch build 8 new brackets. Once these anomalies have been resolved it makes up into a nice wagon. Just need a suitable load for it now. P1090561.JPG Brake ratchet re-positioned and lever correctly bent. P1090557.JPG Incorrect ratchet location and too short lever P1090560.JPG Slightly modified support struts. P1090559.JPG Regards Sandy Sandy, Nicely done, but I'm puzzled by the reference to "an original, not the lengthened version" - the kit in question is for a Diagram G9 Serpent, of which there were 71, built under three Lots c.1889, and none of them lengthened from the original design. Apart from that, the kit did have the brake lever ratchet in the correct place, just inboard of the right hand leg of the axleguard. There is a good picture of the original wagon 17499 in Beard, Tourret, et. al. showing that side of the wagon. As built, they were fitted with lever brakes on one side only, although the requirements for compliance with the Board of Trade's later recommendations woul dhave meant a second set being fitted. Both brake levers would have been right-handed, so both solebars would have ended up identical, so the kit would be right if the solebars were simply copied. If they were mirror-imaged, as you suggest, one of the brake levers would have been left-handed, which would have been frowned upon for new work. Apart from that, if you look at the brake set-up as you have modelled it, the offset in the brake lever required to clear the axlebox is perilously close to the brake ratchet, sufficiently so that it looks to me as if it would have fouled the ratchet. As regards the support brackets for the floor extensions over the buffers, presumably these were provided as etched strips, with two fold lines and the joint corresponding to the right angle at the corner between the headstock face and the underside of the extension plate? Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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