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nick_bastable

Whats on your 2mm Work bench

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5 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

You shouldn't be gauging the checkrail from the stock rail anyway - check gauge should be set from the crossing v/wing rail.

 

Surely full size the check rail chairs hold the check rail a set distance from the stock rail.  The 2mm association plastic check rail chairs do so as well. It does mean the setting of the gauge of the stock rail from the crossing nose is more critical but surely that is the case anyway. This is one of the reasons I prefer to set the  stock rails from the crossing rather than vice versa.  With soldered construction you can set the check rail and the stock rail independant of each other. I just use a slip gauge when setting the wing rails and use the roller gauge to  set the  stock rail and the check rail from the crossing .

 

Don

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3 hours ago, Nig H said:

I used 2-333 and 2-337 to make LMS 10' 8 shoe fitted underframes for the vertical plank LMS 12T vans. I'm not sure if the resulting underframe was totally prototypical but it looked right to me. Apart from having steel solebars on the etch, what is the difference between 2-385 and 2-333?

 

Nig H

Both 333 and 385 are LNER 8 shoe fitted underframes. 333 is for use with cast or separate springs and axleboxes. 385 has integral etched ones.  385 also includes door bangs for open wagons.

 

Simon

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Donw said:

.......This is one of the reasons I prefer to set the  stock rails from the crossing rather than vice versa.  With soldered construction you can set the check rail and the stock rail independant of each other. I just use a slip gauge when setting the wing rails and use the roller gauge to  set the  stock rail and the check rail from the crossing .

Everyone has their own favourite way of doing things and I tend to do the opposite from Don, tacking the stock rails accurately to the template first and then setting the tip of the point rail using two button gauges.  If it's not landing in it's correct place on the sleeper I adjust one or other stock rail until it does.  Wing and check rails are then gauged off the crossing and stock rails using a piece of the plan section rail, which is the same thickness all the way up.

 

The old adage applies, whatever works best for you.

 

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
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Interesting, I know that academically  but I'd never thought of doing it that way. Thank you! Here's a pic of my quick-and-dirty sliding check gauge:

 

wvJ2lxj.png

 

I had the very devil trying to get it all square, time to try again with a longer set of runners, I think.

 

The check rail is now appropriately spaced, too.

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On 17/03/2020 at 19:06, Atso said:

 

A lovely start there! :D

Here is a shot of progress so far with the 43xx. RH cylinder / piston assembly complete. Now to try and get the LH side to match! The tender is a Dapol 3500 gal tender via the 2mm shop.

IMG_1832.JPG

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Looking really nice Keith - GWR elegance at its best.

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8 hours ago, keitharmes said:

Here is a shot of progress so far with the 43xx. RH cylinder / piston assembly complete. Now to try and get the LH side to match! The tender is a Dapol 3500 gal tender via the 2mm shop.

IMG_1832.JPG

 

Keith - does the Dapol tender from the 2mm shop come with all the detail fittings please?  

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4 hours ago, dpgibbons said:

 

Keith - does the Dapol tender from the 2mm shop come with all the detail fittings please?  

Yes, the tender from the shop has all the brake gear, etc, the same as the commercial tender, just all loose.

Keith

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10 minutes ago, keitharmes said:

Yes, the tender from the shop has all the brake gear, etc, the same as the commercial tender, just all loose.

Keith

I should have added that it doesn't include wheels.

Keith

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Hello,

 

Here are a couple of pics of my LNWR composite, now finished apart from numbering and weathering.

 

1819820530_LNWRComposite(11).JPG.27a60d9e4c62f7e954db92cbb95b56ed.JPG

 

1323394565_LNWRComposite(14).JPG.7175a5b983f86428be113e3e7c622169.JPG

 

I found it hard to apply the door 'ones' satisfactorily, probably because the paintwork was matt rather than the recommended gloss.

 

Nig H

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That really looks like it’s not far from getting a box of matches Nigel. 
 

Tim

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I've managed to get a bit more done on my N gauge Cambridge Buffet set. The Dapol Third in the centre of the set is a temporary stand in for an unstarted ex-GN 61'6 Composite.

 

20200406_193637-1.jpg.196f499a0b721788968877b3dc305290.jpg

 

20200406_193656-1.jpg.35c972fc4e8a5a6b71aa0764c81ad452.jpg

 

20200406_193704-1.jpg.733379089fe24fb21faf91d0cbf274c8.jpg

 

20200406_193712-1.jpg.71f3f1b7368cdeec0d83266f8a29123c.jpg

 

20200406_193721-1.jpg.f30189bb14b290ff416df372ae7ef8c8.jpg

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1 hour ago, Atso said:

I've managed to get a bit more done on my N gauge Cambridge Buffet set. The Dapol Third in the centre of the set is a temporary stand in for an unstarted ex-GN 61'6 Composite.

 

20200406_193637-1.jpg.196f499a0b721788968877b3dc305290.jpg

 

 

Top shelf stuff. You can't buy those in clear plastic boxes. Makes me want to get one of those resin printing boxes. I really don't want to use one of those resin printing boxes myself though and even if I knew where I'd put it.

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Clearing down UFOs again. Actually making some progress too. The under gubbins is complete. Just checking the ride height on the bogies before fitting buffers &c. Two different colours in the hope that the undercoat will vary the final colour subtly.

 

20200407_000429.jpg.bff77f1e5ca840aeefeb2bc77f176d2f.jpg

 

20200407_000352.jpg.08f8b4096a1cdec1cd2e65a2322049c2.jpg

 

These prints are not quite as crisp as the one seen at the AGM. That was from a B9 creator and these are from 2 different Anycubic Photons. 

 

I'm unlikely to make any more though unless I break one. There were only ever 6 of these made by the GWR.

 

 

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That Bogie Mink is looking great Rich...

 

OMWB over the last couple of days I’ve been doing some Engineers’ spoil wagons. This particular pair are the result of a moment of inspiration while staring at a couple of the Farish steel high goods and wondering how the hell I’m going to rework the chassis on these to get the brake shoes in line with the wheels...

 

Perusing David Larkin’s “Civil Engineers Wagons: Volume 3” there’s a particularly interesting section showing a “Miscellany of Older CE Wagons, Ex-Revenue Wagons and Brake Vans”. It starts particularly well with a Herring and a Pilchard on the first page (p79). On the next page are a pair of ex Soda Ash wagons in engineers service which are right in my period.

 

This is a case of using up bits of things I had lying around so the RCH vacuum braked chassis are from a very cheap eBay bulk purchase of Conflats which are primarily intended for wagons for my salt block train. This uses mostly of the LMS type wooden high wagons with corrugated ends, for which the NGS does a nice little plastic kit. I ultimately need 30 or so so I’ve been planning to resin cast them but the master for the wooden highs is from the NGS kit which comes in a twin pack with one of the steel, LNER style, bodies. So the bodies for and the chassis for the soda ash wagons are really left overs from the salt train project...

 

I’ve started work with the bodies, removing the door securing detail, and the chain ring pockets and chalk boards appropriate to the two prototype pictures (one with the pockets, ex-LNER, one without, a BR build), and added the door closer bars from 20 thou square styrene. The dogs for the upper bar are scraps of 0.030” x 0.020” styrene. I left these to dry then filed them back to thin them down a little. I’ve just started assembly, using a square of tufnol to work on as the sides and ends don’t seem to stick to it.

 

Just a quick question - what do folks use for axleguard tie-bars on fitted chassis please?

84C968AA-A47D-4701-9642-4AA1187C4964.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Jim T said:

That Bogie Mink is looking great Rich...

 

Just a quick question - what do folks use for axleguard tie-bars on fitted chassis please?

 

Thank you. 

 

I use .3mm n/s wire, but most of my prototypes that have them have round tie bars. 

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Technically its on my 2mm workbench.

 

 

Julia :)

 

20200411_125352.jpg

20200411_125421.jpg

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Quite a big bit on my 2mm workbench, currently. 
F009A628-D872-4FDD-9BD8-E2A94417256D_zps

 

More in the engineering section. 
 

Tim

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Just to add these kits very popular, at a recent show the lads from Stuart Models were surprised that a  gentleman from China had travelled to UK to obtain one in person. I guess explaining to customs on the way back would be fun.  hopefully it will not mean a cheap version being back/sideways engineered to flood market, which was a fear somebody else thought..   

 

Have fun with it.  Much simpler on mine is a fret for three BRUTES.

Robert.  

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7 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

Quite a big bit on my 2mm workbench, currently. 
F009A628-D872-4FDD-9BD8-E2A94417256D_zps

 

More in the engineering section. 
 

Tim

If that was 2mm the tools are very small! 

 

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