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Thanks Nick,

 

I've had a couple of goes at 4F wrappers. The brass one proved easier to get the heat in the right place than the nickel silver for some odd reason using an iron. I'll try locating then using our kitchen blow torch next time and then knock up a few creme brulee whilst I actually know where it is!

 

Simon

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12 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

 

Hi Simon,

I used a kitchen blow torch. The solder was Carr's solder paint.

 

 

Hi John.

 

Everything Nick and Simon have said is good advice and probably the best way to fix the wrappers. I didn't use a torch, but the biggest tip I've got on my Antex 25W iron. I didn't anneal the wrapper as I worry that this makes the metal too soft. For the smokebox wrapper I tinned the tube first. The wrapper should be rolled so it's a tight spring fit round the boiler tube. Once correctly located as per the instructions, I held it in place with wooden clothes pegs of various sizes round the diameter and /or inside the front end of the tube to hold the front edge of the wrapper down on the boiler tube. It's important to check that the wrapper is held down tightly against the tube before you start soldering. I probably started applying heat at the top centre rear of the wrapper and worked my way round the edge. At the front end I'd apply heat inside the tube first at the top centre of the wrapper then work round on the inside of the tube. To get plenty of heat transfer, I loaded plenty of solder onto the tip, and I was generous with the flux too. When all the soldering is done it looks a right mess but can be cleaned up. You can always draw lumps of solder out with the soldering iron as you clean it all up, then use scrapers such as old knife blades, glass fibre brushes etc to do the cleaning up.

 

At the cab/ firebox end you don't need a plug to align the two assemblies, though it's a good idea that I never thought of. My thinking was that the sideways alignment was crucial so lining up the sides of the square with the circle should achieve that. The precise vertical height of the firebox might be affected by the seating of the smokebox on the saddle and minor variations in assembly of the various parts and the whole firebox/ boiler/ smokebox assembly. 

 

Here is a pic of my smokebox wrapper attachment tools.

1716066362_wrappertools.jpg.6a348d058b3db4d1e6a113d1c3475e52.jpg

And two shots showing the method with ex rocket stick blocks of wood.

 

1508248181_Fowler2-6-4Tconstructionshots(38).JPG.2a6a7f525918114c6dcf4bb03e5ce2e1.JPG

 

1289979868_Fowler2-6-4Tconstructionshots(39).JPG.1160c8382b53da05bd6c9566c8fe2872.JPG

Nig H

Edited by Nig H
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I finally completed my Stroudley set of 4-wheelers. Took less than 3 years :D I am quite pleased with my first attempt at etched brass coaching stock.

 

Actually, I completed them a couple of weeks ago, but as I have entered them in the 2mm Scale Association AGM competition, I thought I should wait for voting to close before advertising them.

 

Here is a 'focus-stacked' composite of the set, followed by some unadulterated shots. The magnification is cruel, of course.

 

I will update my Freshwater Blog soon.

 

quality_stacked_focus_cropped.jpg.28c675a0124902cf9e468aaed5456e3b.jpgIMG_20200828_111834.jpg.a34a76d199fc5653d6bdcecf3a7b6e0c.jpgIMG_20200828_140610.jpg.978e4ea5d7dee2f6a0940df071519740.jpg

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1 hour ago, Coal Tank said:

Ian those coaches are stunning, beautifully made

 

Thanks. The bodies are etched brass from Etched Pixels. The chassis are based on David Eveleigh N/S etches for GWR coaches, with etched overlays for the solebars, trussing and footboards that I did the artwork for, to make them more LBSCR like. I created 3D models of the battery boxes and buffer beams/buffers that were printed by Shapeways. Roof vents are Ultima (from 2mm Scale Association shop) and interior was created from resized printed images of old Peco interior for Kitmaster coaches that I found on the Internet. A few passengers from eBay (china) are taking a ride.

 

I printed the destination boards that adorn the guard's lookouts, but I not happy with them. I might try doing them as transfers instead.

 

The 4 coaches together are not much longer than a single Mk4 coach.

 

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I have just found out that my carriages picked up a 2nd place in the annual 2mm Scale Association modelling competitions in the coaching stock section. Having seen the calibre of the other entrants, I truely did not expect to get anywhere, so I am really pleased with this result. Thanks to all who voted.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Ian Morgan said:

I have just found out that my carriages picked up a 2nd place in the annual 2mm Scale Association modelling competitions in the coaching stock section. Having seen the calibre of the other entrants, I truely did not expect to get anywhere, so I am really pleased with this result. Thanks to all who voted.

 

 

 

Well deserved Ian from the post above you went to extra lengths to get details right. That makes a difference.

 

Don

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Looking at these in the competition entry pictures I decided they need a bit more weathering. 8EB340F7-0910-445C-A506-86A4D417123D.jpeg.09ab63d740809e9055a19fc507fb52c5.jpegI also forgot to fit the couplings to the vans yet - I’ve started fitting after painting because they work better without being painted. 

 

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34 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

Richard, your hand painted lettering is amazing.

You make a much better fist of '&'s than I can!  :rolleyes:

 

Jim

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Its the first week of the two week mid-semester school holidays Down Here in Queensland and on the work bench this morning was a pair of GWR V16 Mink A's.  Now I am not a GWR modeler and these were obtained as a way to introduce myself to the GWR brake systems - thanks to @John Brenchley for his advice, particularly as I had an apprentice!  We opted for 9' non-vacuum DCIII brakes.

 

Kickoff was originally scheduled for 9am but The Management gave us some jobs first so we did those (because practicing good WH&S is always a smart idea!) and progress was underway at 10:30.

 

IMG_4480.JPG.582a720374b8e9fb7dfc52fc707122c7.JPG 

2-361 for those interested.  I had meant to take regular photos but we'd actually started before this was taken as the eagle eyed will determine.

 

IMG_4487.JPG.4e626dc24a972f58c8b271238e17388d.JPG

Apparently it is important to stay hydrated and keep your energy up whilst building....  

 

IMG_4483.JPG.a154045269b481cdddef1e3d59ea1c4a.JPG

Hard at work - and Hollie managed not to get her hair caught in the Dremel nor burn her figures on the soldering iron this time.  

 

IMG_4490.JPG.d21e4e09f4ca0bd160dfac997fae3eae.JPG

Lunch was called just before 1pm.  We both had rolling chassis - Hollie's is minus the wheel set as I had nicked them to put in mine.  She got hers done first as I had managed to muck up the brake rigging by placing a bit on the wrong side and therefore fouling the wheels - the level actually did act as a brake.  Because H was running a bit behind, she was able to learn from my mistake and didn't make it.  Mine had to be undone and re-sited to ensure the wheels worked.

 

Play resumed after the lunch hour interval with the rolling of the roofs, the fitting of the buffers and then the fitting of the chassis.

 

IMG_4493.JPG.8d5cca4661e2bed2dfed33f5c498edc5.JPG

A second set of wheels was found after the glue had dried (5 min epoxy).

 

IMG_4492.JPG.f9e4d5aaf4a66e00df79cea62430dadc.JPG

  This was position as at 2:40.   Just need to prime and paint.  Not a bad effort for a little over 4 hours including lunch.

 

We found pictures of 93016 and 93045 at the SVR and so one has the rain strip and the other does not.  Decals to be done at Thursday Night Knitting Club this week.

 

 

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Hi Kevin

It's good to see that you and Hollie have seen the light  and are modelling God's Wonderful.

A couple of thoughts on the chassis - you mention making them as unfitted wagons - in this case, you need to remove the little triangles on each chassis as these were supports for the vacuum cylinder.

Also, most unfitted wagons did not have the tie bar between the W irons, although I note that 93045 had one for some reason, but you can remove it for 93016.

I'm not sure from the angle of the pictures if you have included the cross linkage for the cross cornered brake levers (part 11 on the etch) - this allows a connection between the brake levers on each right hand corner and also links to the central cross shaft.

Best wishes

John

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Hi John,

 

Dunno about seeing the light - the LMS brakes are a lot easier! But then there is the SR chassis I’ve just finished in preparation to draw the van body we discussed...

 

The little triangles you mention - are they to the left of the central v hanger?  If so, we shall get a small file out and delete.  Similarly for 93016 (although Hollie being 14 thinks she should number hers 93014 but as I’m 45 mine can stay!)

 

We did fit part 11 - can’t see it from the angle taken and yours truely fitted it in such a way that it dragged on the back of the wheels and I had to move it!  Hollie having the benefit of learning from my mistake didn’t have such a problem.

 

They’ll make a nice pair to go in a mixed train I think.

 

Cheers

Kevin

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"The little triangles you mention - are they to the left of the central v hanger? "

 

Yes, that's the one.

 

Actually, I find the non GWR brakes harder because of having to fold up the brake hanger.

 

I agree, the SR had some weird arrangements.

 

Best wishes

 

John

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7 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

Its the first week of the two week mid-semester school holidays Down Here in Queensland and on the work bench this morning was a pair of GWR V16 Mink A's.  Now I am not a GWR modeler and these were obtained as a way to introduce myself to the GWR brake systems - thanks to @John Brenchley for his advice, particularly as I had an apprentice!  We opted for 9' non-vacuum DCIII brakes.

 

Kickoff was originally scheduled for 9am but The Management gave us some jobs first so we did those (because practicing good WH&S is always a smart idea!) and progress was underway at 10:30.

 

IMG_4480.JPG.582a720374b8e9fb7dfc52fc707122c7.JPG 

2-361 for those interested.  I had meant to take regular photos but we'd actually started before this was taken as the eagle eyed will determine.

 

IMG_4487.JPG.4e626dc24a972f58c8b271238e17388d.JPG

Apparently it is important to stay hydrated and keep your energy up whilst building....  

 

IMG_4483.JPG.a154045269b481cdddef1e3d59ea1c4a.JPG

Hard at work - and Hollie managed not to get her hair caught in the Dremel nor burn her figures on the soldering iron this time.  

 

IMG_4490.JPG.d21e4e09f4ca0bd160dfac997fae3eae.JPG

Lunch was called just before 1pm.  We both had rolling chassis - Hollie's is minus the wheel set as I had nicked them to put in mine.  She got hers done first as I had managed to muck up the brake rigging by placing a bit on the wrong side and therefore fouling the wheels - the level actually did act as a brake.  Because H was running a bit behind, she was able to learn from my mistake and didn't make it.  Mine had to be undone and re-sited to ensure the wheels worked.

 

Play resumed after the lunch hour interval with the rolling of the roofs, the fitting of the buffers and then the fitting of the chassis.

 

IMG_4493.JPG.8d5cca4661e2bed2dfed33f5c498edc5.JPG

A second set of wheels was found after the glue had dried (5 min epoxy).

 

IMG_4492.JPG.f9e4d5aaf4a66e00df79cea62430dadc.JPG

  This was position as at 2:40.   Just need to prime and paint.  Not a bad effort for a little over 4 hours including lunch.

 

We found pictures of 93016 and 93045 at the SVR and so one has the rain strip and the other does not.  Decals to be done at Thursday Night Knitting Club this week.

 

 


Kevin, 

 

John has covered most things admirably as we might expect. One further point is that the brake handles should have a Z bend in them so the handle sticks out far enough and avoids the solebar. 
 

Keep up the GWR modelling!

 

Rich. 

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In an attempt to illustrate here’s a close up of the same item under the middle of a Mink F, hopefully showing the wiggle in the brake handle so it sticks out. 
 

4DAE4FFF-A8A0-4F0D-A5DE-3BB0859A5F28.jpeg.e434451545b9e865fa5b61b7448d0c3d.jpeg
 

Might be too late for these but maybe helpful for the next ones. 

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Thanks Richard.  Wasn't especially noticable on the photo we looked at - but a trawl around of the other photos of the two wagons does show it up.  At least it will be a simple fix!

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Some complete views of that van and it’s companion built at the same time. I had some help with the lettering on these. It’s the first time I’ve used gloss varnish before and after transfers and then some medium to get back to matt and the result is rather pleasing. 
 

EF0C4520-42B2-426E-ABB3-3C76E7ADF058.jpeg.2b63520a6bff0e7f1bdb1bf7318c3db1.jpeg

 

The latter stages finished just this evening. Like the H&BR vans above these also require some final weathering and couplings. 
 

1A20CA1B-E3C0-4AF4-AFE5-7D6E677B0CC5.jpeg.e43daaa570f78855d007063722adf6e9.jpeg

 

69997, on the right, was one of the first two completed by the GWR. 69999 was built much later. The brakes on the former must have been updated to match the later builds (as seen here). It’s quite clearly been shopped much more recently!

Edited by richbrummitt
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3 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

Nice Richard.  From whence did they come?  I have it marked in my Atkins as a possible bash from some of the NGS Iron Minks.


The bodies are prints (varying printers and sources) from my 3D. Have a look in my blog entries. There are several covering the first and these subsequent ones. As discussed in the earliest of those entries

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/13583-youve-been-tangoed-gwr-modelling-cliché-no-1-part-1/ 

 

the ‘iron mink’ is not a starting point due to the much lower body height. 

 

 

Edited by richbrummitt
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On 24/09/2020 at 16:58, richbrummitt said:


The bodies are prints (varying printers and sources) from my 3D. Have a look in my blog entries. There are several covering the first and these subsequent ones. As discussed in the earliest of those entries

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/entry/13583-youve-been-tangoed-gwr-modelling-cliché-no-1-part-1/ 

 

the ‘iron mink’ is not a starting point due to the much lower body height. 

 

 

Any chance of the stl?  Save me having to draw my own cliché :D

 

 

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Hi.

 

A bit of wheel manufacture today. All solid steel wheels. The small ones on the right are a scale 1ft diameter, it shows how bad the association flanges are!

 

image.png.45ed0b2429c09234cd55e8d479220868.png

 

Julia.

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A long time ago I tried some very small diameter wheels but found it near impossible to get them to rotate in practice. Would be interested to  hear how you get on. Pinpoint axles would probably help, which I could not use on the vehicle I was modelling.

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