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Scratch building wagons


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I hope that I have attached three photos showing one of my methods of wooden wagon body construction using real wood although this wagon is not yet finished. I model in EM gauge and have found a supplier of scale wooden planking which is suitable for both wagon and van body building. This can enable any variation of wagon to be built, even if it is not available as a plastic or brass kit. My prefered method is to start with a wagon base of clear perspex approx 2mm thick, cut out the sides and ends from the scale wooden planking and fix to the base with glue. The etched corner plates are a Smiths product and the end castings are available from several sources, dependant of your preferred Railway company. Buffers as appropriate and strapping has yet to be placed on this model but will be the very fine moulded plasticard also available from Smiths. I have had my stock for many years so I don't know if it is still available, but there may well be an etched brass equivalent. Underframe is a white metal P.O. Kenline kit of which I still have several and these can be modified to suit your preferred model The wooden planking sheets come from a company in the USA called North Eastern Scale Model Inc I Hope this is of some interest

Michael

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Mike

An interesting source of material! Have you found somewhere in the UK that stocks it?

Are you using plain sheet, which you have scribed for planks - or pre-cut planks? If the latter, does this not mean that the planks are scaled for HO?

When I make any wagon sides, my normal method is plasticard, which I scribe for planking with a carpenter's gauge, with all measurements taken from the bottom edge. That way, you can allow for variations in plank width and you avoid aggregating errors which creep in when you measure each plank individually.

Best wishes

Eric

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Hello Eric

I am not aware of anyone supplying from the UK and I have been using this material for many years, but importing from USA.

The wood comes in sheet form, roughly 12" x 4" in packs of 2 sheets,and the planks are already scribed at scale 9" or 12" as you request.

Best regards

Michael.

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Hi Michael

 

Very interesting. Based on your other models I presume that this will be something pre-grouping and 'Southern'? I must admit I find that even a very fine grain appears overscale to my eyes in 4mm - though I have used home-scribed 1mm ply for a couple of wagon floors and in 7mm it would probably be much more effective though even here I'm not sure that it weathers in quite the right way without being painted to replicate weathered wood - which seems rather self defeating. I tend to follow the approach Eric uses as I find plastic an easy and flexible medium to work with and grain can be simulated in a variety of ways. Obviously all the other bits can be made in plastic too; I'm not fortunate enough to have stock of Kenline bits; those end timbers look very handy indeed as making four the same can be a bit of a fiddle.

 

Out of curiosity, have you scribed the floor to match and what adhesive do you use? Presumably you seal the wood before painting? Sorry about all the questions, I'm genuinely intrigued and look forward to the results.

Besr wishes

Adam

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Hello Adam

Thanks for the interest and Ask as many questions as you like, not a problem.

I don't know what wood this is but I cannot see a grain without a magnifying glass so am quite happy that the end result will stand up to scrutiny.

The floor is not scribed as I normally put a load in many of the wagons and that also hides a multitude of sins. Glueing of the wood is done using PVA on a pin or cocktail stick point and the outside detail is added with super glue and patience.

Treatment of the wood prior to any painting is done with a watered down coat of wood turners sanding sealer (I also mess about with wood turning!)

I have attached a photo of Cambriam Railways wagon built in the same manner, and you can see, that where the inside is left unpainted, the wood gives a very realistic finish (In my opinion).

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The wagon looks good Did you scratch build the underframe too?

 

You have to be very careful because the planks on wagons are more often than not even sizes. There is always the narrow curb rail at the bottom too.

 

I would personally never use pre scribe plastic or wood. It will lead to the wagons being odd sizes compared to the prototype. Because  a 12" is actually going to be nearer 11 1/2". Even in 4mm scale there will be almost 1mm difference on a 5 plank wagon.

 

I like Burgundy"s method for gauging the planks. I normally marked the planks as far away from the wagon on the plastic as I could, then if there is any errors it shows less on the sides and ends. If they even planks I mark out to and bottom on the sheet. Then on a piece of 0.005" I will for say a 4 plank side, make 5 pencil marks on the edge and equally spaced but larger then the finished planks. Now use this gauge by getting the first and last line onto the wagon sides top and bottom lines, then mark of the three middle ones. Do this both ends and you will have 4 evenly spaced planks. I always set my wagon out in a straight line, end, side, side, end. With the gauge always add a line extra to the number of planks ie 4 planks 5 marks, 5 planks 6marks and so on.

 

 

 

Edit bad spellings

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N15Class

I am sure that your method gives an equally satisfactory result. One of the reasons that I use the wood on occasions is that it comes in sheets with the planks already scribed longways on the sheet, so basically all I have o do is cut the sheet to the wagon height that I want and then part off the side and end lengths as required. That way all the planks line up exactly.

Personally I am not too concerned if my sides are a scale 1/2" out as, due to my age, I can plead 'bad eyesight'!

The underframe is a collection of seperate bits used as appropriate for the wagon with odd bits made from plasticard.

Regards

Michael

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Micheal

I thought the fit of the underframe was to good to be a proprietry item.

I was mearly pointing out to those who wanted to know that there are other ways of doing planks. Also some of the pitfalls of using pre planked material. I was not questioning your methods, as rule one always applies. (it is my railway)

As already stated I thought your wagon was good.

I am sorry for any confusion caused

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Hello Peter

Is it hot down there? Yesterday here we had 33.5 degrees so no modelling got done. I am not aware of any confusion being caused and sorry if my post seemed a bit abrupt but I am still getting to grips with this forum business. Incidentally how do you get your otherparts of the website to appear at the bottom of your postings in blue as links? I have not workd that one out yet.

I have started a blog and there may be some photos on there which might interest you.

Also I have made a sort of ancestor of the Beattie well tank, but have not tackled the version you are doing.

My tendency with my modelling is to go back in time.

Lots of stock to build yet,

Michael

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Hi

The links at the bottom are call a signature. If you click on your name top right in the drop down box click on my settings. On the left hand side of that page you will see a tab labelled signatures, click there and you can sort them out there.

 

The well tank is a rarety for me it is going to be mine. I sell most to pay for the next one. But I have got 3 or 4 others to do for myself which as I have more time I will start.

 

I have to manage my time here with the model making. I have to do any spray painting by about 10 AM or it just to hot and the paint dries before getting to the model. To do any lining etc its windows closed and air con on to stop the paint skining and matt ones drying on the brush. It never really gets above 38 degrees here, but then again it does not go below 22. The main thing is the humity which is quite often is 90 % plus.

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Hello Peter

I can only comiserate with the climatic conditions that you have there. 

Am I to understand that you are working in 7MM?

Anyway, many thanks for the guidance re 'signatures'. I will give it a try

Michael

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I think that there is a certain satisfaction from using the same material as the real thing - I'm sure this is why many people prefer to model locos in metal, so wood for wagons fits the bill!

 

I recently bought a copy of Atkins' GWR Wagons and my mind is spinning with details of stanchions, buffers, axleguards, etc. I can see how once you start looking at these details, it's a very long road to follow!  I think I shall adopt you plea of failing eyesight to cover all my glaring errors!

 

Since several wagon-builders will be reading your thread, may I hi-jack it a little to ask if anyone knows whether David Geen wagons are still available?  His web catalogue is dated 2009 and I have had no reply to e-mails.  I like the idea of a few curved-end 3-plankers but, perhaps, I will pluck up courage and scratch-build.

 

Mike

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Hello Mike

Many thanks for the comments. Will hopefully be posting more.

Address for David Geen is :

 

30 Silverwood Close
Hartlepool
TS27 3QF


Concerning early rolling stock, I use  the following books:

 

Early Trains by Bryan Morgan

Victorian and Edwardian Railways from old photographs by Jeffrey Spence

Victorian Locomotives by Baxter

Victorian and Edwardian Railway Travel by Jeffrey Spence

 

Also a lot of the illustrations from the Illustrated London News from the 19th century have useful illustrations such as the one concerning the Staplehurst Accident in which Charles Dickens was a passenger.

 

Hope the above helps

 

Incidentally where are you located?

 

Regards

 

Michael

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Many thanks for the info.  I've contacted David Geen and now have this in hand.  I have some of the books you mention and find that it is often what is in the background of photos that is of greatest interest!

 

Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

The wooden planking sheets come from a company in the USA called North Eastern Scale Model Inc

Update:  I notice that the company you mentioned has now split into two parts.  The materials you mention are now supplied by Northeastern Scale Lumber co. and you can download their catalogue (pdf) from http://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/

 

Scales are O, HO and N, and they have all sorts of interesting mouldings and components, as well as scribed planking.

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Hello Mike

Many thanks for the update on Northeastern Lumber. Are you going to try them?

Incidentally I am shortly coming to the stage with the 1840 Open and 1850 Passenger/Luggage

carriages when I shall be fitting them with solid mahogany running boards. Footsteps have already been

fitted in mahogany but the top of each step has been 'weathered' to try to replicate the effect of mahogany

going grey when out in the open. This will also have to be done to the running boards, hopefully to appease

the 'weathering' fraternity!

The mahogany strip, incidentally, comes from any company supplying veneers

Don't know whether to put photos here on in my blog!. 

 

Michael

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Don't know whether to put photos here on in my blog!. 

Since you have mentioned them here, it'd be nice to see them here!  I've still not got the hang of the differences between blogs and forum posts. So far, I have posted my contributions in a thread called "Turning Back the Clock" but should it be a blog?  I also posted about the 1840 Royal  Carriage in the GWR thread but it has raised no response - perhaps the wrong place.  This is a huge site and I keep finding fascinating corners but it's easy to get lost :)

 

Mike

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Mike

A 'blog' is like an on-line diary and a forum is where one raises subjects or comments on them.

Your entry 'Turning back the clock' is a typical 'Blog' form.

If you ask Andy through 'Notices, faults and help' at the top of the RMWeb Hone page, he should be able to tell you the best way to convert your article to a 'blog'

Please let me know how you get on

Your entry re the Royal Carriage is a good and typical forum posting because it asks a question.

Best regards

Michael
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  • RMweb Gold

  I also posted about the 1840 Royal  Carriage in the GWR thread but it has raised no response - perhaps the wrong place.  This is a huge site and I keep finding fascinating corners but it's easy to get lost :)

 

Mike, 

 

Your carriage post is in the appropriate forum. It might just be that the right expert hasn't seen it yet to respond.

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