shortliner Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Sorry I missed you - but we'd better give the thread back - sorry for the OT posting! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Glued the double thickness (2 x 5.5mm) end sections of the boards together last night. I have to recommend Allen and Orr as timber suppliers for anyone in the Chesterfield area, the 54 parts I had cut are all spot on. We also got some custom profiled skirting boards from them a while ago and they were good too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Quick question for modular meet organisers. I've realise that one of the angled boards is shorter than 4 foot. I could make it longer and get more causeway, but would I be better leaving the length at 8 foot on both axis, rather than having one at 8 foot and the other 8 foot 6 1/2 inches? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Up to you Tim, my suggestion would be that most folk's limitation will be either transport or storage, if you can transport and store the longer ones then why not - from a layout setup point of view we will work with what folk have built... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxmoore Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 A YouTube video showing how versatile the two-chord- and-crossing module can be. Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 This thread has been a bit dead, seeing Nick's completed module reminded me to post. In between a holiday, looking after two small boys, gardening, fitting a new front door and preparing the cellar for tanking (shorter deadline, got have it done by October prior to having the central heating boiler fitted in it) I've been cutting landscape profiles, spacer blocks etc. I printed out the plan full size to help me with this. Currently waiting for some C&L baseboard dowels prior to cutting the board end profiles and then it will be an of gluing parts together, hopefully this stage will be pretty quick and provide a morale boost and something to show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northpoint Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 This thread has been a bit dead, seeing Nick's completed module reminded me to post. Who said anything about completed!!! Still much to do.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Well, after a long period of doing nothing, I finally got the legs to fit (with a belt sander) and put up all four boards at once for the first time. Learnt a few things; Slot in legs don't work as simply as I thought, hinged next time. My floor isn't very level The diagonal boards don't line up, luckily at this stage it's just a case of a couple of new holes I hate building baseboards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Well, after a long period of doing nothing, I finally got the legs to fit (with a belt sander) and put up all four boards at once for the first time. Learnt a few things; Slot in legs don't work as simply as I thought, hinged next time. My floor isn't very level The diagonal boards don't line up, luckily at this stage it's just a case of a couple of new holes I hate building baseboards Keep us posted Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 14, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 14, 2015 Good to see progress Tim I'm rebuilding my two Freemo spec boards from last year I decided as they were a little too big in the car. I can reuse all the bits and get an extra board in so that's a result. Certainly yours is going to make Martyn's planning interesting with loads of possibilities like Mikes jcn did last year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Good to see progress Tim I'm rebuilding my two Freemo spec boards from last year I decided as they were a little too big in the car. I can reuse all the bits and get an extra board in so that's a result. Certainly yours is going to make Martyn's planning interesting with loads of possibilities like Mikes jcn did last year. <Thread drift> Which reminds me, you need to let me know the size/config of the new version (detail can be later) - my current version of the plan has the L shape option from last year...</Thread drift> Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted July 14, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 14, 2015 Don't worry I'm working on it details next week as I've got a couple of days off to sort things out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Hi Tim, loving this module, it was one of my favorites at the FREEMO meet last weekend. If you need any assistance building or transporting it, I'm only in Bolsover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks Dan, sorry I've not replied to you before, every time I started to, a child required attention. I'm going to have a bit of a railway building break to catch up with the backlog of DIY, but might call on your assistance later in the year Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks Dan, sorry I've not replied to you before, every time I started to, a child required attention. I'm going to have a bit of a railway building break to catch up with the backlog of DIY, but might call on your assistance later in the year I know that feeling.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Ah, the joys of not having kids! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 After a fairly successful trip to Freemo 2015 for the module I've got some jobs to do before starting scenery. I was pleased that all the wiring worked first time and how quick it was to assemble and disassemble, although it will be heavier and more awkward with scenery. A: Some of the trackbed sags between supports. Its only 6mm ply so I suppose it was to be expected. 15mmx15mm alu angle has been ordered and it will be glued onto the bottom whilst heavily clamped. B: The diamond itself worked with no derailments AFAIK, but the running across it was a bit rough. Having built it in three evenings with a deadline I'm pretty happy, but I'm going to build a new one with tighter tolerances, especially with regards to rail height and rail gaps at the crossing itself. C: There seemed to be regular derailments at one of the switches. Bit bemused by this as it is standard Peco and so didn't suffer from the poorly aligned rail joints that were present elsewhere on the module... Lots of tweaking to do. D. I powered the Cobalt point motors directly from the DCC bus, and it was only the night before when I realised that this is not a good idea, if you drive a loco too far onto the crossing V and short out the DCC it kills everything in the DCC power district and you can't change the switch to un-short it. A separate power supply has been acquired, but I need to work out how the power to the crossing V will work as it is switched by the Cobalt at the moment. Obviously if you drive the loco past the crossing V onto the blades it will still short out, but there is nothing much you can do about that. E: Need to make some end plates to protect the rails in transit. I had a good look around at peoples methods. Thoughts have also turned to the next stage, to make some (5!) scale bridges the replace the temporary plywood gap fillers. Luckily the first of the handful of magazines that Nick/Andy were giving away that I grabbed has an in-depth article (10 or so pages) on open deck bridge construction. Some more on the crossing itself. I tried first making it with rivet and ply, but couldn't get on with the technique. So I decided to be radical and get it 3d printed. I took the decision early on that the all the non-running rails would be plastic as they shouldn't be shiny anyway. A quarter of the diamond model was built in Sketchup and then mirrored to produce the whole thing. The majority is one piece, with inserts to hold the rail in place (red bits are sprues). I had it printed in by Shapeways in Black Strong and Flexible, I decided the extra detail of FUD was less important than strength in this case. Most of the detail was reproduced, I was prepared for it not to be. Here is the video of the very first test run. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=DEB2591C47894A10!4615&authkey=!AJpNz_vWhQFGJbo&ithint=video%2cmov When I build it again, I need to allow a little more room for the rail as I had to shave some out of the bits that fit in the web. I'm also tempted to make a jig for filing the 8 small sections of rail consistantly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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