Spitfire2865 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Wow. Very nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Both brake vans looks superb Nile What brand/colour paint did you use for the LNWR brake? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2014 Thanks David. I used Phoenix Precision P382 LNWR freight wagon grey. The instructions call for 'invisible' grey, I don't know if there is any difference, or if anyone is going to notice if there is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 13, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) While finishing construction of the model (fitting the fiddly bits) I made one small mod. I thought the foot boards were a bit low, below the axleboxes, so I cut a bit off the tops of the supports so that they could be mounted a bit higher. The top one has been modified. With construction complete I sprayed the whole thing with primer. Now I just have to work out what colour to paint it. 'Mid-grey' with red ends is a little vague as far as instructions go. Time for more research. Edited February 11, 2023 by Nile 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 ref the LNWR version, North Western Album by CC Dorman has a picture of a the D16 brake van with Diamonds only livery behind a 2-4-2 tank Seem to remember reading in this thread that pictures are rare Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 Nile, it seems that the instructions for the NLR brake van includes more livery information than the HMRS LNWR Liveries book (which also covers the NLR). It appears that livery details for all NLR wagons is rather thin. The LNWR wagon colour according to LNWR Liveries was a plain medium grey, slightly darker than LMS wagon grey. The reference to Invisible Grey is believed to refer to it being like Admiralty warship grey, used to camouflage warships. There seems to have been some variations in LNWR Brake Van liveries which were painted a light or medium grey from the late 1850s, with black framing. The Ballast Brakes also had red ends. The attached photo, courtesy of "Penlan", show what this would have looked like. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 15, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2014 One of the hazards of modelling pre-grouped railways is a lack of accurate colour information, particularly with regards to goods stock. Artists (and their clients) were far more interested in passenger trains. I'm modelling the post war period, so colours may have been affected by war time shortages. I'm painting the NLR brake van with Humbrol 67, which seems as good a choice as any. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Jol, With regards to Penlans picture, how long did this livery last? Was it right through to the grouping period or from the late 1850's to??? Nile, How did you get on with fitting the roof? The one I am working on is nowhere near the correct profile David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 David, plain grey seems to have come into use when the LNWR initial were added, about 1908. I guess that the two tone livery (red ends were used on the ballast brakes with open verandas) would have lasted on some vehicles at least until the 1910's, possibly even into the 1920's.. Jol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) David, you are right that the roof isn't a perfect fit. Once cut from the surrounding material it is quite flexible, which helps, but you still end up with gaps at the ends. I did two things to improve the fit. I filed down the protruding parts at the tops of the sides. I added a strip of 10thou microstrip to the top of the rear end. I'll post some pics later as I'm about to stick the roof on. Edited July 21, 2014 by Nile 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) The first of today's updates. The result of my painting. The main colour is Humbrol 67, the ends are special oxide red, the metal work and chassis - black, and the footboards - railroad tie brown. Edited February 11, 2023 by Nile 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 She looks wonderful and the paint finish is just really good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 21, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2014 (edited) Thanks Nelson. Here's the second update. This photo illustrates what I wrote earlier about improving the fit of the roof. The next two show the fit of the roof at both ends. The body is simply resting on the roof, upside down. There is still a small gap that will disappear with slight pressure. With superglue gel around the top of the body I pressed it down onto the roof. While it dried I used a bag of fluid lead to maintain the pressure on the joint. I hope that helps. Edited February 11, 2023 by Nile 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) When the original supplier of curved roofs retired, LRM had to find a new source. Currently vac formed roof sections are supplied by two other kit manufacturers who use the same technique for their own kits. Occasionally the supply has been somewhat erratic and the consistency a bit variable. The owner of LRM is looking into getting his own vac forming machine to bring this process in house. Personally I have always been a bit unhappy with plasticard roofs, particularly for bogie carriages where distortion can be a bit more of a problem. I am looking at rolled brass for new builds but my rolling mill can only do sections big enough for vans and six wheel carriages. Edited July 22, 2014 by LNWRmodeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 26, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) After painting the roof light grey this is the finished model. The transfers came from the LNWR sheet, I haven't got the correct HMRS sheet for the NLR and don't see any reason to get it now. The two vans together. And finally, I found a use for the box. My growing collection of Phoenix paints. After all that metal I need to get back to plastic, it's too hot to solder. Edited February 11, 2023 by Nile 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Very nice. Whats that hole on the end? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 26, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2014 I have no idea what the hole is for, does anyone else know? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 This is a total guess but I would have thought that the holes are for lamps? They look to be the size of a small LED? Lovely job btw. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 This is a total guess but I would have thought that the holes are for lamps? They look to be the size of a small LED? Lovely job btw. Yes, the hole is for a tail lamp, although the LNWR or NLR didn't use LEDs! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2014 I thought you might know the answer, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 28, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) I've dug out some Cambrian kits I bought recently for my next builds. Meanwhile I've finished off the TSR.2 that seems to have been hanging around my workbench for months. The white finish doesn't make it very photogenic. Being 1/144 scale doesn't help either. Actually 4 months from purchase to completion is pretty quick for me. Back to trains now! Edited February 11, 2023 by Nile 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Nile, Having been tackling the brake van, just want to say I have full respect for what you have achieved. On mine the main body and chassis went together well but the detailing is proving 'fun' How did you fold up the footboards? The short sections I have found ok, but the long section between the axle boxes I have found to be a pig to fold up David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 If you hold all three at the same time in a vice or folding bars, then fold the step itself. Also run a square or three square needle file along the fold line first, just till you see a mark on the other side. The fold will then also be easier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I don't put the fold-up part of the footboards in my kits. The backboard was usually about an inch and a half square, so a 0.5mm wire soldered alone the back edge of the footboards will come out as scale and be a lot less traumatic to fit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 29, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hi David. Like N15 I used a vice. the upright supports go in the jaws, leaving the footboard itself sitting proud ready to be bent over (My vice has smooth jaws). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now