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Good evening Andrew,

 

21 hours ago, Headstock said:

I've tried modelling from three foot away, whilst the kit is in motion.

 

Stirrups.   And something to grip with your teeth.   That leaves both hands free.   Keep at it, it's an acquired technique.

 

21 hours ago, Headstock said:

which if either, was used on your excellent looking Conflats and containers?

 

(speculative edit).   Neither of the ones I used was from Ambis - both anonymous and both had to be blackened.  The Ambis is black from the packet - already ahead in my book. 

 

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The 20 lpi is closer to what I used for loads like the above . The smaller one (27 lpi) will go onto the next containers.  40 lpi is too small for most loads - it was what I used for the Grantham meat containers, where pictures do show very fine chains being used.

 

TW_J69_insulated_container.jpg.e25f09ef79c45169ea9d591adae0c7f9.jpg

 

(Tony's picture).

 

Jewellery chain, apart from being much more expensive, might be lacquered and therefore hard to blacken or paint. 

  

I have a feeling the chain I rejected as failing under the slightest tension came from a model boat supplier.   I have another which I know came from them and the links are twisted through 45 degrees, it's completely useless. 

 

The larger link in your drawing might be handy.  I don't know what others do but to attach the ends of chains I often form a loop with thin wire, pass it through the chain and whatever it's to be attached to (the small eyes on container corners, for example) then touch it with a soldering iron to close it up. 

 

On 02/12/2020 at 15:03, drmditch said:

I might be able to see a way to do the BLC containers as well.

 

Caroline, apologies, I did miss your message.  Any of the pressed steel B types would be invaluable and that might be enough incentive to have me complete a master for a Dia 76 conflat.

 

 

Edited by jwealleans
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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

Good evening Andrew,

 

 

Stirrups.   And something to grip with your teeth.   That leaves both hands free.   Keep at it, it's an acquired technique.

 

 

Evening Jonathan,

 

Hands free modelling, what will they think of next?

 

1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

 

(speculative edit).   Neither of the ones I used was from Ambis - both anonymous and both had to be blackened.  The Ambis is black from the packet - already ahead in my book. 

 

spacer.png

 

The 20 lpi is closer to what I used for loads like the above . The smaller one (27 lpi) will go onto the next containers.  40 lpi is too small for most loads - it was what I used for the Grantham meat containers, where pictures do show very fine chains being used.

 

TW_J69_insulated_container.jpg.e25f09ef79c45169ea9d591adae0c7f9.jpg

 

(Tony's picture).

 

Jewellery chain, apart from being much more expensive, might be lacquered and therefore hard to blacken or paint. 

  

I have a feeling the chain I rejected as failing under the slightest tension came from a model boat supplier.   I have another which I know came from them and the links are twisted through 45 degrees, it's completely useless. 

 

The larger link in your drawing might be handy.  I don't know what others do but to attach the ends of chains I often form a loop with thin wire, pass it through the chain and whatever it's to be attached to (the small eyes on container corners, for example) then touch it with a soldering iron to close it up. 

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply,

 

your post is so useful. If you are a comparative newbie to loading with chains and you are physical separated from a product, photographs and packets of chains all start to look the same. It is often not easy to visualize ex amount of links per inch in a practical application. I would also add the confusion over link length, is it the inside of the link that is measured or the outside? I think that the best thing for me to do is buy a number of different chain types and start experimenting, put my learning hat on and get myself up to speed. Thanks again for the explanations and context.

 

On Conflats, Mr J Marsh was supposed to be producing a bunch a few years back, they never materialised. As a result I only did two, using the unit model one as you have, Unit models are just down the road from us, so I got them early. I shall be revisiting them, as I wasn't happy with the screw shackles that I used, yours are much more authentic. Fantastically, there are always new things to learn and try out in model railways, if you are willing to do so.

 

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11 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

I like those LNER insulated containers. I think some of those would look good on my meat train. Where did they come from? And do you know how long they lasted?

 

Morning Andy,

 

They're a joint effort - Graeme King castings from my masters.   They went as a pair - D60 conflats with D15 meat containers.   I can only say from Tatlow that all 30 made it to 1947, beyond that I have no information.   I wouldn't know what livery or lettering they carried under BR either, I could only make an educated guess.

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6 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

 

Morning Andy,

 

They're a joint effort - Graeme King castings from my masters.   They went as a pair - D60 conflats with D15 meat containers.   I can only say from Tatlow that all 30 made it to 1947, beyond that I have no information.   I wouldn't know what livery or lettering they carried under BR either, I could only make an educated guess.

Thanks Jonathan,

 

I should have guessed that! I’ll message Graeme. I can always paint them in late LNER livery and weather them well.

 

Andy

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On 02/12/2020 at 06:56, jwealleans said:

 

I'd like to if it is.   I have a stack of the open containers and no use for them and like you, I'd like more conflats.  If Peco will do the sprues separately that might be the way to go.   Or a lot of raking over second hand stalls - the one I've just built had a £4 price on it, from the s/h stand at Redcar by the look of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Peco response today rather disapointing .

They want £9 per wagon plus postage. As you can get the whole kit for £10.45 , err no chance Peco !!

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I seem to recall that "in order to protect retailers" Peco also have an eleventh commandment: "Thou shallt not sell direct from the factory at any less than full RRP", and that applies even when you are present at Beer, saving them all distribution costs.

 

The days of any sprue you like for £2, at short notice, from Parkside Dundas are but a fond memory. If I understand what the Peco rep told me at York show a couple of years ago I suspect that if you wanted those expensive sprues these days you'd have to wait for Peco to order them from the Ratio factory, which would in turn make them only as and when the next ordinary batch of such sprues was required. 

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3 hours ago, micklner said:

Peco response today rather disapointing .

They want £9 per wagon plus postage. As you can get the whole kit for £10.45 , err no chance Peco !!

Given that the open container represents next to nothing as a proportion of the kit, that doesn't surprise me. Problem is the postage will take a fair chunk of any savings.

 

AIUI, BR decreed the open containers had to be carried in high goods opens after a few collapsed when being carried on Conflats so they need not be wasted.

 

John

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1 hour ago, Dunsignalling said:

Given that the open container represents next to nothing as a proportion of the kit, that doesn't surprise me. Problem is the postage will take a fair chunk of any savings.

 

AIUI, BR decreed the open containers had to be carried in high goods opens after a few collapsed when being carried on Conflats so they need not be wasted.

 

John

Good for BR modellers !! I can always stick my surplus ones on ebay in due course .

 

thanks

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On 04/12/2020 at 17:18, micklner said:

They want £9 per wagon plus postage.

 

I'm with Graeme.  That's an "I don't want the job" quotation if ever I heard one.  When I did all my grain van conversions, Richard Hollingsworth charged me 75p a sprue for the sides.

 

Someone must want a set of forty or fifty DX containers?

 

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17 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

 

I'm with Graeme.  That's an "I don't want the job" quotation if ever I heard one.  When I did all my grain van conversions, Richard Hollingsworth charged me 75p a sprue for the sides.

 

Someone must want a set of forty or fifty DX containers?

 

Agree re Peco !!

 

Containers,  put them on ebay ,they will always sell at the right price !!.

 

Same for the ones I need , patience. I already have three this weekend, for the same or less price than Peco wanted. My surplus Containers as said earlier  will go back on ebay in due course.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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JW

     Re the Unit Containers .

I have just made up a Cambrian one plank for my last two Containers. I have tried them and they fit, it only needed the bottom line of single corner rivets to be removed on one side. That area once fitted will be hidden.

     Re roping.

 Where do you source the Metal rings from ? Its not obvious from the photos were the bottom of the rope runs attach to too on the wagon please ?

 

Many thanks as usual !

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Morning Mick,

 

I might look again at the Cambrian 1 plank, then.   I didn't build this one, only inherited it.  

 

On some wagons, mainly old LNWR one plankers, they fitted lashing point which look very like the ferry tie downs that 51L produce.   Off the top of my head I can't recall seeing those on the one plankers but I may be wrong.   It would be a slightly different means of attaching them.

 

The ropes are round the V hanger (Geen) while on the Cambrian one there must have been cleats under the body side, so I put some short wire pegs in and looped the rope round those.

 

The rings are .33 wire wrapped round a drill.   Once they're through the fixing eye (Roxey) and the chain end, I close them up with pliers and then put a spot of low melt solder on so they're a closed ring.   They do occasionally pull out if I'm a bit rough, but as a rule you can then tauten ropes or chains against them and they'll hold.

 

 

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Hi Jonathan

I always find your wagon updates inspiring for their variety and for the standard of 'finish' that you apply, which enhances the models and makes them look so realistic.

I'm not sure how you manage to secure so many E-Bay job lots; perhaps I am just too afraid of acquiring too much junk that I couldn't do anything with!

Tony

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I've occasionally used small brass split pins for container and other lashing rings if the tail can be hidden - you can thread the Roxey tie downs through the tail.

 

Jon

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Hi Jonathan,

 

Good to see the Masterclass D.210 nearing completion. I put mine away before Christmas as I got fed up with soldering the sides up. But I dug it out again a few days ago and I’m making progress. However I’ve made a right mess of the foot boards which run right along the sole bar. There seem to be eight of them in the kit, so are they supposed to fold double? When I did fold them over I could get them in the holes so I put mine in singly but they waver all over the place as you can see.


714F1AA4-6E58-4FF6-B088-A250B9CC0FE6.jpeg.ef8ff33371ea41b0cbd223cb3287124a.jpeg

Did you encounter any problems and, if so, how did you solve them?

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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