Sprat and Winkle

[Catweasel]

After going round all the various systems for couplings, I am looking at S&W. Seem simple to make and install and don't look to bad. However, Any idea as to the smallest loop I can get away with, and is it possible to get couplings as close as possible please. I use Peco Code 75 with medium radius points and short loco's and stock. Thank you.

[br2975]

Not quite sure what you mean by 'loop' - is it the 'goalpost' loop which normally should protrude from the buffer beam as far as the rear of the bufferheads.

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I have used S&W in both 7mm and 4mm scales and they are suited to my purpose, and I am happier with them than I was with Kadees.

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My current layout - 'Rosamund Street' uses S&W couplings and the minimum radius is approx 36" through two tandem turnouts.

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The problems I have encountered have been when I mounted the couplings too far back from the bufferheads (my own making, not down to the design)

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Brian R.

[enginelane]

Do the job well, the instruction sheet gives lots of variations and the owner attends many shows and would be willing to assist. Finescale modellers go for the 3mm rather than 4 mm version but I have always found the 4mm version OK

[Catweasel]

Thanks for the replies folks. I understand that the "goalpost" be level with the buffers but can I use something like a staple for it? The hook I'd like to keep as far back as possible. I'll have to get a set to play with. Phone MSE later today.

[enginelane]

If you rely on the buffers too much when propelling and curves are sharp then will get buffer lock that is why the goal post is a critical element

[Gilbert]

I use them in 7mm - my advice - follow the instructions carefully and make jigs to both make up and fix/adjust the couplers. I also started used their mounting plates and reliability has improved since I did.

Chris

[jcm@gwr]

I would agree with all the above, and add that goalpost will be far

more discreet than a staple, (if you use the correct, thin wire that

is supplied)

I used to chemically black them, but I now just use a permanent

black marker pen, you can hardly see them.

 

Jeff

[John_Hughes]

They're brilliant - couple with a touch and uncouple absolutely reliably, even when people are watching!

 

I've got away with the 'finescale' version even with Peco's small radius points and commercial OO wheels, but they do need careful adjustment; the height of the loop is absolutely critical (I knocked up a little plasicard jig to set them all the same) and the vertical 'attitude' of the hooks also needs to be the same. Once adjusted they never seem to fall out of trim - quite marvellous!

 

(But I did find out that I needed electromagnets for uncoupling, as otherwise stock was too easily drawn forward onto the permanent magnets and then uncoupled.)

[Catweasel]

Many thanks gentlemen. Order gone in for couplings and mounting plates.

[Barry Ten]

I use the finescale 4mm sets on a minimum radius of 30". All seems to work, including bogie stock with the coupler mounted directly to the vehicle. I've got a few magnets on my main running lines, so to avoid uncoupling when I don't want it to happen, I use friction brakes on selected items of stock such as guards vans and any other vehicles that are noticeably free-running.

 

I would agree that once set up properly, they are very reliable and it's great fun to do hands-off shunting.

[Barry Ten]

While on the subject ...

 

Do people chemically blacken the parts before or after assembly? I've been making and fitting my couplings, then trying to blacken them ... but it's a bit hit and miss and seems to need a lot of goes before the metal blackens. I dab the fluid on with an old brush - is it better to try and blacken the fret first? I'll try using a permanent marker as well, thanks to Jeff's post.

[kipford]

Barry

I would Chemically blacken the fret before you use it, same for the wire. Then touch with a felt marker pen if required after assembly.

[Catweasel]

The stuff I use is Birchwood Casey Super Black,Matt. Thoroughly clean the brass with a fibreglass stick before removing from the fret, then paint on.

[br2975]

I too use the 'finescale' type in 4mm.

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I bend the goalposts and staples using a Bill Bedford handrail jig

 

I also use 'Gun Blue' on the coupling hook.

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Use a permanent marker on the goalpost.

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My magnets are mounted beneath Peco/PCB sleepers and are powerful enough to attract the bottom (iron) coupling link.

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I would recommend them.

 

Brian R

[jcm@gwr]

One of the problems of chemical blackening is

that it doesn't touch the solder,

so you have touch up afterwards.

Also, if you don't do it for long enough, it looks

patchy. If you overdo it, it can flake off.

 

Jeff

[Barry Ten]

In case it's of interest, I don't use solder for my S&W installations. I did to begin with, using the mounting plates, but soon found it quicker and simpler to use my own method.

 

To retain the coupling, I just drill two small holes - using the coupling itself as a jig - into the underside of the buffer beam. I then make up a small U-shaped piece of wire, again using the coupling as a reference. I then drop superglue into the holes, wipe off the excess, and then fix the coupling in place, providing enough slack for the coupling to move freely up and down. If the buffer beam is too narrow to drill into, I glue a widening strip against it with plastikard.