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BCDR 6 Wheel Coaches

 

Completed the build on the 6 Comp. 3rd and the Brake 3rd.

6 Comp. 3rd coach.

 

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This is the first time I've come across half height compartments so this is my best guess as to what they would look like.

 

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Brake 3rd 

 

Initially I thought this was a 6 Comp coach with the last Comp taken over by the Guards Compartment.

 

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I had the opportunity to see a drawing by Desmond Coakham in which the '5th' Comp had bars on the windows and the door handles removed which suggests the Guards compartment went as far as the red line drawn on the attached photograph.

 

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This means the Brake 3rd had only 4 Compartments for passengers.

 

Priming underway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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BCDR 6 Wheel Oldbury Coaches

 

My guess on colour was a faded Crimson Lake red as it appears little money was spent by the BCDR on the maintenance of these coaches. 

 

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The coaches are from left to right 5 Comp. 3rd, 6 Comp. 3rd and a Brake 3rd.

 

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One of the extras I added was the Screw-link couplings.

 

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That's it except for the usual touch up on the bodies and a tryout on the layout to see how they run.

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 just keep those projects coming! Whats next?

 

Finishing the Baltic Tank is the current project on the Workbench Mike, still filling and sanding away at the body work before I fit the detailing parts, pipes, hand rails etc.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sulzer Build

I picked up a Silver Fox Sulzer resin body way back and it stayed in the ‘Things to Do’ box but then I got an offer of MM 071 chassis cut down to fit a Sulzer.  The chassis arrived as shown in the picture below.

 

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It was not until the middle of August I was able to tackle the build which I thought would be fairly straightforward after the Baltic Tank project.  As you can see in the picture below the chassis had been cut and joined at one end and I suspect getting the correct wheel base was the main consideration in planning the cut.  However you can see bogie tower ‘A’ (at the shortened end) has no room to rotate.

 

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I broke the join and lengthened the chassis using stiff plasticard.  The bogie is mounted on the center part of the chassis so the end was not load-bearing.

 

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Thinking that was the issue solved I moved onto installing the motor and problem #2 arose.

The next picture shows the chassis with bogie towers installed and the motor with drive shafts sitting next to it.

 

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A close up to the bogie tower (shortened end) shows the end of the gear shaft marked ‘A’ and the following picture showing the motor with right hand drive shaft connected but no room to allow the left one to be fitted at ‘B’.

 

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My only solution was to fabricate a shortened drive shaft to fit the left side of the motor so I made on out of brass with some plastic tubing melted on to the widen the diameter of the shaft. Sorry for the poor quality of the picture.

 

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It was cut to size and fitted over the end of the drive shaft as shown below.

 

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Here you can see the mini drive shaft attached to the motor. 

 

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Tests were carried out to see if it would negotiate curves and points as it worked.

 

 

Next the body work.  I got some brass etched and white-metal pieces which I believe helps to lift the look of the model.

 

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In an earlier picture you would have seen a 071 PCB but I decided not to use it at the moment as I was not going to add lights and sound.  Also I found the white-metal bogie sides too heavy for the plastic bogie frames so I reverted to the Sliver Fox resin ones.

 

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My other Sulzer has the CIE black livery so I decided to do this one in the CIE Black/Orange colours.  This involves the curved colours at the ends.  My way of approaching the masking is to first draw a template in MS Publisher drawing over a picture of the model.  Then I copy the lines into Word doing a mirror image to get the left and right hand pattern and then print off the template.  I place it over double layers of Tamiya tape so you only need to cut out once.

 

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You may have picked up on the video clip the ‘noise’ coming from the chassis which is not what you could get from a 071.  Does this result from the ‘mini’ drive shaft on one side?  I would have though a better approach would have been to reduce a part of the chassis on each side of the motor allowing equal drive shafts on each side.  I would be interested in the views from any Engineers out there.

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Great job.

trying to make things fit is hard.

The drive shaft spins so fast that if it is not totally straight it will make noise, try making another one

to see if it is any better. The noise could be coming from somewhere else.

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As soon as I saw what had been done with the drive shaft, before even seeing the video clip, I knew it would not be satisfactory. You might get away with that arrangement if the bogie was fixed rigidly in place, but of course that can't happen. The only solution is to have two flexible joints, one at each end of the driveshaft like the original. To do that you need to move the motor so that it is central in the chassis. In order to do that, some material needs to be removed from each side of the inside of the chassis, see the picture below. The motor can then be repositioned centrally, and the two driveshafts can be shortened to fit. The motor can be secured with silicone, which can be easily removed should the motor ever need to be taken out again.

 

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Fab idea and work Kieran.  I'm about to use an 071 chassis for an A class SF project, so it is great to see this.   It may also inspire me to do a Sulzer as well.  I heard one with a BR class 24 sound chip on Irishrailman's ballybeg layout and it sounded amazing.   Your SF sulzer looks fab. Btw, when I adapted a 141 chassis for a C class B233, it also sounded rattle'y after I reassembled the chassis, but I didn't need to shorten mine except at each extremity.  I discovered that I had mounted the motor back to front in the chassis holder and left out a tiny shim.  Made one up with plastic card to wedge motor in place the the vibration noise vanished.  Not sure if you experienced the same issue or a separate gear shaft noise.  For the A class I will just cut the shafts shorter and rejoin with fuel tubing.  

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Hi Kieran

 

Listen to the vibration noise my Bachmann 141 centre drive chassis made after I had reassembled it (link below).  Especially the first ten seconds.  The cause was the motor was not seated firmly in the correct orientation in the chassis cradle.  Plastic shims solved it and the noise went away.

 

 

Noel

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Thanks Guys for your suggestions. 

 

David I’ve been looking at your idea of moving the motor to a central position.

 

The distance between the bogie towers is 106.5 mm and the motor plus fly wheels are 69.5 in length.  That means I would have to reduce the drive shafts down from 30.9 mm to 18.5 mm. The motor is situated in a cradle with a plastic ring to support it at either end.  I take it you would have to replicate this system ensuring the motor is in the correct height position in relation to the drive shaft/flywheels and the bogie towers?

 

I shall ponder further.  As a matter of interest would the current set up cause damage to the motor as it works though noisy?

 

Meanwhile I have finished the body work so that just leaves the motor to sort out.

 

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