Jump to content
 

Kirley's Workbench


kirley
 Share

Recommended Posts

BRDR Brake Van.

 

Having added a BCDR Locomotive to my Stable I found I had only a few BCDR wagons for it to pull but no Brake Van. Leslie suggested his friend Michael, Smallbrook Studios, did a kit of an LSWR Road Van that was quite similar.  I got in touch with Michael and found him very helpful and he supplied me with his kit plus a 21' Dapol Chassis.

 

IMG_4054.JPG

 

The body had to be extended so plasticard came to the rescue.

 

IMG_4057.JPG

 

I added some brass W Irons and running boards.

 

IMG_4058.JPG

 

IMG_4059.JPG

 

IMG_4060.JPG

 

This is what it is supposed to look like

 

BCDR%20%20Goods%20Brake%20No.9.jpg

 

First coat of primer added.

 

IMG_4061.JPG

 

IMG_4063.JPG

 

IMG_4064.JPG

 

Now for the tricky bit, the roof then glazing, decals and all those other bits that it takes to finish a model.

Thanks again to Leslie to pointing me in Michael's direction and Micheal for all the help.

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I got a GNR Gardner Bus kit from Sunrise Models but finished it in CIE livery.

 

IMG_3886.JPG

 

IMG_4073.JPG

 

IMG_4078.JPG

 

and I was quite pleased with the results.  

 

But then I saw this; it was on the back of a truck on the Octivia Hill layout at the Ulster Model Railway Club Exhibition last month.

 

IMG_4015.JPG

 

If you look closely you will see it has been converted into a working railbus, well done Antony.

 

IMG_4016.JPG

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

It has actually taken me 6 weeks getting to this stage gathering up the additional parts for this build.  I'm trying an new approach for holding the bogies in place, one in which you can control the height of the bogies against the body height which as to be similar to all other rolling stock.  I have use heavy brass plates as an experiment to give weight over the bogies but the real test will be the pulling power of the motor to pull a second railcar especially on the gradients on my layout. To do that I'll have to wire up for DCC to carry out this test. Fingers crossed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Further testing of the BUT Chassis under it's own power using Black Beetle Motors.

 

IMG_4466.JPG

 

Using a brass coach to test the pulling power.

 

IMG_4475.JPG

 

Constructed a box under the chassis to hold the decoder and wires

 

IMG_4476.JPG

 

IMG_4477.JPG

 

IMG_4478.JPG

 

Decoder installed.

IMG_4483.JPG

 

 

Test runs on the layout.

 

IMG_4483.JPG

 

 

A short video of the tests.

 

 

Strange how 2 Black Beetle motors running on the same power go at different speeds.

 

On with the build on the 7 Series bodies.

 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

BUT Railcars  7 Series Body

 

The ends of these Railcars are quite unique and I am full of admiration of Allen Doherty's innovative way of producing them.  There is what you get;

 

IMG_5589.JPG

 

It took be a bit of figuring out but I think I got there in the end.

 

IMG_4500.JPG

 

IMG_5584.JPG

 

IMG_5587.JPG

 

IMG_5582.JPG

 

The first build is where you learn (I hope) by your mistakes. On to the next body then.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some suggest the Hornby B12 as the donor for the Baltic Tank.

Yes, the wheelbase is more akin to a B12 with smaller wheels.

I have to say that I did use a Hornby B12 as the basis for a BCDR Baltic tank more than forty years ago. I can't remember what happened to it, but I have not got it now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a beautifully built and lined model but to be honest I'm not sure. It looks just too  "big and long"  to me.  And I'd need to take a serious file to the  cab cutout. I've been mulliing over how I might do a "bodge Baltic" for a long time now and have not yet found a suitable r-t-r chassis. The B12 might do, if you can fit 5'6" wheel and the complex valve gear. Way beyond me.

 

 

Colm

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's something I started working on January this year.  It was a 'bargain buy' on ebay and when I opened the box this is what I got.

 

post-12350-0-84947100-1515586988.jpg

 

Some 'minor' flaws on the body shell.

 

post-12350-0-19290900-1515587009.jpg

 

post-12350-0-59298000-1515587035_thumb.jpg

 

I suppose rugged is the kindest description you could give the body finish.

 

post-12350-0-12779300-1515587068.jpg

 

Isopon to the rescue.

 

post-12350-0-00530600-1515587120.jpg

 

After a very long delay the body is ready for painting.

 

IMG_4503x.jpg

 

The chassis.... now that's another story.

Edited by kirley
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

You deserve a Nobel Prize Kirley for getting a Q Kits to that stage.

I bought two about 30/35 years ago. First was the white metal effort; I gave up!

Second, about 5 years later was the resin version; same as yours. Gave up!

 

Apart from the twisted metal, distorted resin, the real problem was trying to make the things go. I see that you make a passing reference to the chassis....

 

Some years later, I had a bright idea: cut a chunk out off each of them and convert to C class, using the Athern switcher chassis, whip of course runs like a dream.

 

This whole rig marole has sort of come full circle. I bought the Silver Fox A class as a body only kit. I had great difficulty getting that to run properly using the recommended Hornby Class 55 chassis. Probably more my incompetance than anything else.

Another bright idea: use the Athern switcher chassis ! It's Bo-Bo configuration of course but I added dummy front wheels at each end.

Not a Gold medal winner but I finally have a working A class, after almost 40 years.

Photo attached but I've no idea how this is going to work; another first effort.

Cheers,

 

Glover

post-5229-0-29174700-1478648422.jpeg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

A Class.

 

The chassis for my A Class came all the way from Australia in kit form and I outsourced the building of it to my friend Gareth.  As you can see he did an excellent job not only putting the chassis together, getting the correct spacing between the wheels, building a platform to support the electrics but most importantly devised away of attaching working couplings that pivot on the bogies. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_5599.JPG

 

 

Then it was onto the tricky masking prior to painting.

 

IMG_5594.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to the BUT Railcar production line.  Roofs for the 700 Series taking shape.

 

IMG_4560.JPG

 

I am still using Comet aluminium roofs cut down the center and an piece of plasticard added to give the extra width.  The photograph shows the extended roofs covered with masking tape to hold the roof in place before running isopon underneath to seal it in place.  I keep it attached to the sides to get the right curvature.

 

IMG_4561.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...