Jack374 Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi all, Please could anyone give me some advice on how I'd go about bending a Hornby 60 chassis? A couple of years ago yours truly dropped it out of a cupboard, about 4ft above the hard, hard floor. Many bits broke but I seemingly fixed them all, but having given it a coat of grime and a couple of modifications recently, the body and chassis did not sit right. Further investigation showed that one end of the chassis was fairly bent, resulting in a 3mm ish gap at both ends between the body and chassis. One way or another, I'll need to address this, but I've got two options, and neither are straightforward or desirable. One option involves swapping the whole innards (including motor, curcuit board/wiring and speaker) to another chassis I have that I won off evilbay for practically nout. This will prove time consuming, and the new hybrid will never run as true as the original. However, the more favourable option is to bend the chassis back to shape. I'm absolutely no expert in metal manipulation, so I'd like some advice. The chassis appears to be made of some sort of cast metal, so will likely be brittle, so would some sort of heat aid the process? Some piccies of the problem: Any replies will be greatly received, many thanks for taking time to read this, much appreciated! Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekstuart Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hello Jack I think if you're going to get that chassis back perfectly straight then you are going to have to take everything off it anyway. I'm sure some experts in metallurgy will be along to tell you precisely how and where to bend, but you will need to be able to push, prod, lever and cajole and I can't see how you can do that with motors, bogies, drive shafts and electrickery attached. As for whether it is possible- I can't see why not. If it will bend one way, it will bend the other. But you will have to do it slowly and apply pressure over a large area (hence the need to knock the chassis down) If it was me (and the other chassis is identical) I'd opt for a total swap personally. Derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hello Jack I think if you're going to get that chassis back perfectly straight then you are going to have to take everything off it anyway. I'm sure some experts in metallurgy will be along to tell you precisely how and where to bend, but you will need to be able to push, prod, lever and cajole and I can't see how you can do that with motors, bogies, drive shafts and electrickery attached. As for whether it is possible- I can't see why not. If it will bend one way, it will bend the other. But you will have to do it slowly and apply pressure over a large area (hence the need to knock the chassis down) If it was me (and the other chassis is identical) I'd opt for a total swap personally. Derek Thanks very much Derek, I had feared that may be the case, but all is not lost as the other chassis happened to have a motor, body shell and two bogies attached, therefore I may be able to straighten the bent one and reconstruct both in tandem. Thanks again, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 40-something Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I hope you manage to sort this out, but one thing you've said in your post stands out... another chassis I have that I won off evilbay for practically nout. Surely its not evilbay if you paid practically nowt for it? Anyway, hope you get your 60 up and running Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekstuart Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi Jack Like I said, if it can be bent one way then it can be bent the other. The trick is to make sure that you are applying force over a larger area, using something flat. If, for example (to use the extreme) you were to grab the drawbar with pliers and bend back, then you would just end up with a two-bend chassis. The photo isn't too clear, but is the bend a sharp-ish bend over a short space or is it gentle over a couple of inches? Whatever you do, don't try and bend it back with your bare hands otherwise you'll just twist it, like the plier example above. Can you post a full side shot- preferably sitting on a flat surface (track for example)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks Derek and 40-something, in answer to Derek's query, the bend is very sharp where the bogie support frame meets the bulky motor shell. I'm thinking a long metal bar, one end under the buffer beam and over the main motor part should do it, I'll gather info and decide. Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekstuart Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 You don't need a long bar; you are implying that you will need a lot of force- you don't. What you need is slow, gentle applied force that is even and straight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted October 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi Jack, Bending diecast metal (Mazak) is one of those "apply steady pressure, close your eyes and hope it doesn't break" moments. A quick search finds this advice I'm not sure how Mazak responds to heat, but bending of brass work hardens it and it requires heat to soften (anneal) it, for some more bending. As you'll probably have to strip down the chassis to straighten it, then you'll not really lose anything if it does break, as you'll have all the bits to transfer to the ebay chassis........................ Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Mazak is usually a 'bend once, break second' material. It is not forgiving at all. However, there is nothing to lose by trying! I have seen it suggested that gentle warming helps (about 50 degrees Celsius - hand hot), but have not had great success with this myself - it didn't seem to make much difference. Gentle pressure is essential, heavy handedness will result in certain fracture (Guess how I know!) I straightened the cab of a Dublo 'Mallard' once that had been bent at around 45 degrees out of true (trodden on? - I got her cheap for that reason!), so there is a fair chance of success. Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Many thanks Mick and David, I'll give it a go soon. I may only have to strip the bent end though, I'll see. Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derekstuart Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 You would be better stripping it all. You need to use a straight edge over as long a 'true' length as possible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 ... I'm sure some experts in metallurgy will be along to tell you precisely how and where to bend.... I have only once been exposed to a zinc alloy castings specialist - small comopnents for an industrial application - and the emphasis was on no deformation of the cast pieces. My own experience of bending mazak is as those who have already posted. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. But even if it snaps, that's not necessarily the end; can be 'fished' with metal plates screwed on and reinforced with Araldite. It's not as though models have to take enormous loadings, if they are kept safely on the rails! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanks Derek and 34C, I think I'll have a go, although not soon as last weekend was a rarity as it was a free one! Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Jack, Like most things cutting corners often leads to,other problems and may not save you any time. I expect it won't take as long to strip the chassis fully as you may think. If you leave anything on the chassis you may well damage something else. You will be able to hold and manipulate the chassis better with nothing else on it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Once again, many thanks to all the contributors in this thread, but I have decided not to try and straighten the chassis properly, as to be honest it doesn't look too bad and I can live with it. I had taken a few parts off and attempted to straighten the end, which has worked to some extent, but there is still a gap. If the sporadic running problems persist I may well decide to strip it and try and bend it back, however I'll probably leave it be. I'm sorry I haven't gone ahead with this project after all the support I've received, but life's too short for perfection, especially when GCSEs and Grade 8 drums are just around the corner! Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Jack I wouldn't worry about not straightening the chassis at the moment you can always do it later if you want to. With Railway modelling you can always go back to something later, my guess is that confidence is a big factor in your decision. I am sure I would have made a similar decision at your age. good luck with the exams by the way (had to look up Grade 8 drums on Google) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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