mcrook62 Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Hi Just started in O gauge and have ordered Peco series 7 points what is the best point motors to use? Regards Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Hi and welcome to 7mm, I hope you enjoy your experience in O Gauge. As for point motors, you have a choice, you can go down the solenoid route and use either the Peco or Seep motors. Then there is the slow motion machine such as the Tortoise or Cobolt. Another alternative is to use servo's. There are lots of different articles on the operation of all the different types, both on here and the Internet, that should give you more information so you can make an informed choice. All the very best with your venture. Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 I use a mechanical point motor having had them recommended by a fellow RMweber. these go under the name of "blue" they are mounted under the baseboard and are operated with a pull rod but you can get a flexi rod system to operate them. They have a DTDP switch built into them but as they are mechanical there is no other wiring to be done and nothing to go wrong. I would recommend them for a small layout. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Michael, Good luck with your new layout. Point actuation is one of those subjects that seems to get people worked up. I don't know why, because it's possible to be pretty objective about it. As far as I know, the following options are available. "Hand of God" - very cheap, suitable for small layouts, polarity control of crossing is non-existent or unreliable. Reach can be extended with a suitable stick. Wire-in-Tube - can be very effective over limited distances, addition of "Blue" device allows polarity switching, but this is nearly as expensive as a powered actuator (without the panel switch & wiring etc) Real rodding - 1/16 brazing rod is available in 1m lengths as are rodding stools, cranks, compensators etc. Very realistic, rather fiddly, polarity control needs to be arranged. 3-4 metre runs are possible on outdoor layouts. Solenoid motors (Peco / Seep) relatively cheap, easy to obtain, can offer polarity control, tends to "bang" the blades over which is unrealistic, and may damage home-built pointwork. Servo motors - requires either that the servo is dismantled, and the electronics removed, in which case it becomes an actuator, or a system to provide the required drive signal such as a MERG Servo4, an Arduino, or a commercial servo driver. Comments about crossing polarity also apply - it needs to be arranged, either by relay or microswitch. Cheap, but requires some electrical understanding. Dedicated point motor - there is a company making so-called Microdrives. Expensive. Slow-motion point motor - Tortoise or Cobalt - built in switching, realistic motion, can include DCC decoder. Expensive. Crossing polarity switching can be arranged for DCC by means of "a Juicer", but I consider this overkill, when a microswitch will do the same job, much cheaper. My experience is with Tortoise motors, entirely reliable once set up correctly (though others have commented on switch failures) however they are expensive, >£12 per point, and require several inches headroom under the baseboard. My next layout will use servos, driven from Arduinos. They will be fitted with micro switches a/o relays for polarity. I guess the criteria are (in no particular order) Cost per point Electrical competence required Number of points to be controlled DC or DCC (or c/w, steam, battery or whatever) Distance to farthest point Formations (eg crossovers) where two or more points may need to operate together Need or desire for interlocking with other points, crossing gates, signals Indoors, outdoors Slow motion or "bang" "What's best" will always be subjective, I hope there's a bit of food for thought above. You can google the trade names for more info. Any q's, just post - someone will answer! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Hi Michael. Firstly can I echo Jinty's welcome to the senior scale and I hope you enjoy your journey with 7mm. My layout (Ramchester) uses Peco track throughout coupled with Peco point motors. So far this system has been OK but once or twice I have had problems with the motor not switching the blades over properly. Close inspection usually discovers that a bit of ballast has become trapped between the stock rail and the blade and this is easily corrected with a cocktail stick or similar instrument. There have been times when the frog polarity switch also Peco has come adrift and therefore current is not changed. I use a capacity discharge unit to give the motors a bit more umph which makes them a bit more reliable. On the whole I am fairly happy with thissystem but if I was to build another layout I might change to something else. I agree with Simons remarks above and at the end of the day its your choice. I would certainly recommend that before you get too far down the line do a bit of research - have a practice run with one or two systems and then decide. Hope this is of use to you. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Echoing Rod's comments with exhibition season upon us so if you are going to a show ask the operators of the layouts what they use and more importantly would they use the system again. I when for a mechanical option as I was going through H&M and peco motors at a rate on knots. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted November 3, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2015 I use a mechanical point motor having had them recommended by a fellow RMweber. these go under the name of "blue" they are mounted under the baseboard and are operated with a pull rod but you can get a flexi rod system to operate them. They have a DTDP switch built into them but as they are mechanical there is no other wiring to be done and nothing to go wrong. I would recommend them for a small layout. Oh - I wonder if that was me ? I help Paul Martin of EDM Models at some shows and he stocks the Blue Point unit along with all the various accessories. All detailed on his website here http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/TRA/blue_point.html Hope that helps . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LohnD Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Hello all Just like Michael I am a recent arrival at the RMwebb and quite intersting it is to. I have a layout or I should say quite a bit of track, points etc,. No buildings or scenery, gets in the way of loco building. To date I have not got round to arranging anything to operate the points so this post interests me. I read somewhere about memory wire for point operation. This option is not included in the above list. Anyone used this for point operation. Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 There was an article, at least 10yrs ago, in MRJ about using memory wire for signal operation. Don't remember if it included point operation though. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Tried it. Wasn't hugely impressed. Lots of fiddling for little gain (if any) over a Tortoise or a servo. There are applications for which it might be better - half barrier crossings may be an example - but IMO t'aint worth it for turnouts. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 The Blue Point switcher is outrageously expensive for what it does and does not do. If you opt for mechanical wire-in-tube or push rod operation all you need to change the common crossing's polarity is an inexpensive lever-fitted microswitch operated by a small cam attached to the drive rod or wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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