mcrook62 Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Hi All with much frustration I have had to ask for help I am new to 7mm and I thought that the larger size would help in my old age but trying to line up the pin and fit the point motor is driving me NUTS s there a simple method that I am so blind not to see with 4mm you just push the pin in and then the motor lugs and bend over and volia that was it but with the 7mm points that don't work SO please any help to stop me losing any more hair. Thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Hi Mike, take off the square spring cover so this can aid your vision, then just put the pin through the stretcher bar, and put the 4 x lugs through the sleeper base, you will have to bend them over with a small flat blade screwdriver, cut the pin down if it is too long, then refit the square planky looking piece of plastic. Hope this helps Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I gave up and got my hands on some blue mechanical point actuators. Just done our first show with the new layout and they worked every time. A lot less hassle than electric actuation only 3 wires two in and one out to the frog. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 They're a ferocious price for what is essentially a microswitch and a means of connecting a wire to the tie bar. You pays yer money... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Short answer is DON'T! Either go powered or good old manual but you will need to rewire points whatever you do as the switch rail to stock rail contact is guarateed to fail. You can then remove the spring loading that sits under the oblong "thing". Tortoise seem to be the preferred weapon on this forum but I use Fulgarex and would like to try http://www.anemodel.com/products_list.aspx?LEVEL=1&TYPE=2 at some point Yes, they are a lot dearer than the Peco "sledgehammers" but SO much better Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Ummm, I have fitted Peco points without much drama. Mine were side mounted with extended arm thingey and the motors hidden in small buildings. It was a lot less hassle than under baseboard mounting and the setting was urban so a few extra buildings fitted in fine with the layout. D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Have you thought about trying Peco's servo motors? I'm considering this sort of control for signals and points on a future exhibition layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Have you thought about trying Peco's servo motors? I'm considering this sort of control for signals and points on a future exhibition layout. The PECO servos are good for signals. I have described their installation on my Cwm Bach thread. I suspect that for PECO points one would have to remove the latching spring on the points. I prefer to build my points from C&L parts and drive them with Tortoise motors. Building 0 gauge points is not difficult and the saving over RTR offerings more than covers the higher cost of Tortoise or similar motors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I've hand-built a number of points, though because we use flat-bottom rail in Australia, I've adopted some rather different methods. I do not use PCB or copperclad sleepers. The point is built up on a balsa base with timber sleepers and the rail is spiked directly to the sleepers in the same manner as the prototype. The frog is soldered to a small piece of brass, which both holds the wing rails in gauge and is where I attach the electrical connection. The check-rails are pinned in place. I've tried a few different methods of attaching the throw-bar over the years. My favoured method is to drill a small hole in the foot of the blade rail and use a small pin which is then bent soldered on the underside of a narrow piece of PCB - usually a HO scale sleeper strip. I would like to eventually draw up some etched parts to make them more realistic in this area, but as long as the points work properly and look good from about 3 feet away, I'm fairly happy with them. When I helped with Stringybark Creek, we used Tortoise motors, but I think that they are very big and bulky. I would like something more compact. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.