RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 Has anyone tried/built an alternative to the little brass rod in brass tube drive connection mech on a Fulgurex Point? I ask as I would like to use some top of board mounted. I got them without the drive connecting mech for a 'good deal'; little did I know! I bought a new one to see how they should work and although I could probably scratch build a load of similar to the actual provided mechs I feel (only my opinion) the original system is way too complex for my needs. If the answer to the above question is no, or don't bother, then watch out for these on Buy and Sell/Ebay. Thanks Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 30, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 Sorry, can't show where I want it/them at this time. However I forgot to mention, Peco 75 points. I have had the Fulgurex units for quite some time. This is the new one with the rod unit. Others exactly the same but no rod units. Thanks Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 30, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 I think I have partly answered my own question in that top mounted they would need a lot of room next to the point but could be linked to wire in tube drive. I'm still interested in alternative links to the point though. Just discovered they are noisy, but quite clever! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Phil These are under the board linkages but are much, much, much . . . . easier than the crank method suggested by Fulgurex. First photo shows a bell crank, second shows a servo horn. The omega loops are copper wire from twin and earth cable. The operating wire projects up through the baseboard - almost invisible from above. Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted November 30, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi Phil These are under the board linkages but are much, much, much . . . . easier than the crank method suggested by Fulgurex. First photo shows a bell crank, second shows a servo horn. The omega loops are copper wire from twin and earth cable. The operating wire projects up through the baseboard - almost invisible from above. Fulgurex linkage.JPG Fulgurex with servo horn.jpg Regards. That's what I was after. Many thanks Bill. I'm sure I can use something similar 'up top'. or maybe even simpler! Certainly if I use any down below this is the way to go. Brilliant. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theduke71000 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Has anyone tried/built an alternative to the little brass rod in brass tube drive connection mech on a Fulgurex Point? I ask as I would like to use some top of board mounted. I got them without the drive connecting mech for a 'good deal'; little did I know! I bought a new one to see how they should work and although I could probably scratch build a load of similar to the actual provided mechs I feel (only my opinion) the original system is way too complex for my needs. If the answer to the above question is no, or don't bother, then watch out for these on Buy and Sell/Ebay. Thanks Phil Mallard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific231G Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Mallard. Just stumbled on your posting. Fulgarex point motors and their brass rod actuation can be altered to suit above board operation. Further if you are having problems with mounting these mechanisms under the baseboard ??? This is because you must throw the instructions in the bin as they are only designed for use with German style hair sprung floating points !!! NOT Peco or handbuilt - I´ve had years of experience with these point mechanisms !!! The Duke 71000 This is really useful and I wish I'd read it before installing six Fulgurex motors to operate Tillig HOm points on my metre gauge layouts. They work but only just as there is a lot of lost thrust in the instruction book mounting method which seems to be an engineering nonsense. I also found that I had to use both microswitches (each as an on/off switch) to switch the frog else there was a tendency for it to be wrongly switched if the switch didn't quite make. It may be that the shorter point blades (and therefore shorter lever arm) of the H0m turnouts simply require a greater force to move them than would be the case with H0. They're also very noisy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted December 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 4, 2015 Mallard. Just stumbled on your posting. Fulgarex point motors and their brass rod actuation can be altered to suit above board operation. Remove the rod from the sleeve, and simply bend an "Omega" loop in the brass wire, after screwing the point motor above the baseboard. The only requirement is that the motor needs to be in such a position that it lines up directly with the tie bar on the point. If the wire bends when actuated, you can pin a small section of the sleeve to the baseboard, and feed a part of the brass wire through this before it reaches the point tie bar If angles are unavoidable through the route of the point wire, you will have to resort to using "L" shaped cranks (Available from "GEM") The cranks obviously have to be fixed to the baseboard first, Just like real point rodding ! If the Fulgarex brass rod provided is too short, pop down the local model shop and buy a piece of brass wire of the same diameter. Warning avoid the "K&S brass" (US firm). This brass is too brittle and breaks too easily when bent. Try and find the German made brass available in some model shops (sorry forget the name of the brand off the top of my head), but the German stuff is less brittle !!! Further if you are having problems with mounting these mechanisms under the baseboard ??? This is because you must throw the instructions in the bin as they are only designed for use with German style hair sprung floating points !!! NOT Peco or handbuilt - I´ve had years of experience with these point mechanisms !!! Under baseboarding mounting of Fulgarex motors. I have used of 500 of these on many exhibition layouts. So have a number of useful tips. Read on... First apply a drop of superglue to each end of the brass worm drive to glue it firmly to the plastic cluip holding it at each end. Stress in this worm drive, when trying to move Peco, or handbuilt points can cause the worm drive to come loose, so it never completes its movement and whirrs away until the motor conks out. Drill a 1mm hole in the baseboard for the crank and sleeve, and add a drop of superglue in the hole to ensure this crank stays precisely in place. The hole can otherwise become slightly enlarged and the crank eventually begins to wobble slightly in the hole, increasing various stresses during operation which results in the crank bending and the point NOT throwing fully. Screw the Fulgarex motor right next to where the crank comes through the baseboard. Do NOT leave a 10mm gap as per the doppy instructions. But ONLY use TWO screws, one at each corner to screw the motor to the underside of the baseboard, and DO NOT tighten these screws, allow a slight bit of movement in the whole Fulgarex mechanism. This again allows a little take up of any stresses during operation. Finally bend the crank beneath the baseboard to fit into the most suitable hole in the Fulgarex actuation arm (two holes available each end of this sliding actuation bar). Don´t forget to use one of the free switches to control the point frog, and possibly the other to INTERLOCK your signals ????? !!!!! Well we don´t want the Seaton branch train pulling out in front of the ACE !!! No Fear, you´ll soon be a proffessional track and signalling engineer .......... The Duke 71000 Brilliant Duke. That really is helpful. This is a situation where I'm trying to use something I bought on EBay without doing research! They came without the brass bits. I won't use them underboard (there are only a few points that actually need that) but as my fiddle is so 'open' I reckon I can try using these 'monsters' in many places on the surface just for convenience. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific231G Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Just an aside but I've heard that Omega loops are prone to breaking because of the acute angle at the start of the loop and that Zs achieve the same result without putting such a strain on the wire. Any thoughts/experience ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I think this gives the best result (IMHO) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted December 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 4, 2015 I think this gives the best result (IMHO) Simples as they say. Thanks Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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