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Re-using ancient Peco 00 nickel silver flexible track


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I've found several lengths of Peco flexible that have been in storage since the 1970s, and I'd like to use them on a new layout. At first they showed a marked reluctance to flex, I image because of the buildup of deposits on the nickel silver, which had darkened in colour. I've given the rails a good scrub with a toothbrush and meths which I think has helped, but there are still dark flecks of something on the vertical surfaces of the rails and I still don't think they flex as well as new stuff. Do members have any suggestions for other, maybe more effective ways of reviving this track, which is perfectly serviceable otherwise? I'd also value any opinions on possible conductivity problems eg soldering droppers to the underside. 

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It's possible that the plastic sleeper base may have lost some of it's elasticity since the 1970s depending on exact storage conditions - temperature fluctuations, exposure to light etc. Plastic can  degenerate too depending on the type and conditions of use.

 

As long as the base isn't disintegrating and the rail tops can be cleaned to a suitable shine I'm sure it will work OK - maybe you should confine it's use to straighter sections?  

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I realise the plastic is slightly different but a couple of years ago I reused  some Graham Farish Formoway track that was pushing 50 years old - with no problems at all.  The Peco track that was stored with it seemed to be in just as good a condition but I prefer the look of the sleepering on the Formoway hence it being used.

 

However - as Andyman has said - I suspect the conditions in which the track was stored might have an effect if they are not right for the plastic; there should normally be no problem other than dirt and tarnishing with the rail.

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Apart from the considerations mentioned above, I have an idea that back then Streamline was not so flexible as it is now. And I take it as read that you are comparing like with like: Code 100 rather than the newer Code 75.

 

I agree that you should not have any great problems with it. If you need to bend it more consider making some more cuts in the plastic web which links the sleepers.

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Andyman, Stationmaster, Joseph, Phil:

 

Thanks so much for your replies, all within half-an-hour-an of posting!  I love this forum.

 

Phil: if the chairs bind a bit it certainly makes sense to use the stuff for the fiddle yard. And Joseph, it  just hadn't occurred to me simply to put cuts in the bits of the web that appear to be binding.   And I too have been wondering whether, with all the advances in plastics since the stuff was made, Peco are still cooking the plastic from exactly the same 40-odd year-old-recipe.

 

Further contributions on this topic would be most welcome.

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It's not just that the grade of plastic used may have changed over 40 years (and it almost certainly has) but also some of the additives used in the plastic will have degraded.  This is not often a major problem since many of them are there to stabilise the plastic during the moulding or extrusion process, but some of them can also have a lubricating effect and as such would help reduce the friction between the plastic and the rail.

 

PS I am using some Peco for my new layout that is 20 years old and I am not noticing anything special about the flexibility - but then I do not have any new track to make the comparison. 

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I've some 40 year old Streamline; most is fine, but you get the occasional bits that crumble; it would have been made during the early-70s Oil Crisis, when a lot of firms recycled plastic, so that might be the source of the problem. The rail, apart from some surface tarnishing, is as good-as-new; the tarnish is conductive, so shouldn't cause you too many problems. The contemporary rail joiners age less well.

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I have used WD40 before now to reduce binding - it seems to work - but there are concerns it can attack plastic. Nothing adverse observed with my streamline 75, much of which is around 10-15 years old now. But with an older plastic, it might be wise to test a short area first.

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With time it's inevitable that dirt and tarnish will clog up the 'working' parts. The solution is either to use it in a location that needs little curvature, as already suggested, or slide the rails out - they will come out with a little persuasion and then give the plastic base a good scrub and polish the rails. Remove any burrs from the ends of the rails and taper the webs slightly (this helps with fitting joiners too) and slide them back in. I would avoid WD40 or similar - it probably won't have adverse effects, but I wouldn't risk it, as failure once laid would be inconvenient to say the least.

 

There should be little problem with the plastic (it's polystyrene), but this will depend on the storage conditions. Cheap scrap steel rail could possibly provide new sleeper bases if necessary. Some of my track is very old, but I've not had problems.

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I discovered by accident that my old Streamline, back inside after a decade outdoors in the 1980s, inconveniently reflexibilised (is that a word) when the very dilute PVA was sprayed on it during ballasting. I'd be inclined to spray a lengthwith water containing a little washing up liquid, giving it 5 minutes for the capillary action to get some water 'everywhere' and see if flexibility improves.

 

 

... I have an idea that back then Streamline was not so flexible as it is now ...

 I too am of this opinion. I remember well when Triang Hornby's system 6 flexible track first became available, and a waggish club member bringing some along and bending it in air into a semicircle, then pointing at the box of Streamline (code 100 of course back then) and pronouncing "So now we know, that is actually inflexible track!".

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