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Mr Grumpy’s Workbench: MOK 9F occasional updates


Mr Grumpy
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Hi Grumps,

 

That is looking superb :good:

 

Oh yes, I tried the cyano-type adhesive that is for good for glazing.... no frosting at all and it sticks in seconds, dried clear!!! Result!! :danced:

 

Cheers

Lee

Thanks Lee!

I ordered some along with the other glues, so great to hear it works....I want to be able to see that control cabinet through the windscreen :-)

Here's a better view of the bogie frame...

 

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Edited by Mr Grumpy
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....I want to be able to see that control cabinet through the windscreen :-)

 

 

I will get the photo on Saturday as 7076 is not running tomorrow :)

 

That bogie does look rather heavy, I don't think you will have traction problems with this loco

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I will get the photo on Saturday as 7076 is not running tomorrow :)

 

That bogie does look rather heavy, I don't think you will have traction problems with this loco

Thanks in advance for the photos!

The traction motor bogie (without cosmetic frames) is also nice and heavy. I gave it a run and it is very smooth and quiet, so hopefully the cosmetic frames won't be a noise issue!

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Excellent job on the 14xx.

I need one now that I've acquired an A38 Autocoach, I think it will certainly be a MOK kit.

 

Jinty ;)

Hi Jinty,

Thank you.

You may need to crack on, Dave is having problems obtaining the machined boiler and smoke box components, and I'm not sure he has any in stock.

I need (want!) another to build as a 5800, so hope he sorts out his supplies!

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Not too much progress as other things have needed to be done,but got the roof and bogie frames primed today. The rest of the time seems to be taken with painting and cutting millions of tiny brass castings!

Still waiting for my motor bogie extensions....

 

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I have been nibbling away at the castings and made a little progress :-)

The two air tanks, valves and pipework are complete.

The buffers took a little fettling but came up a treat. To prevent the oval buffer heads moving to strange angles, I modified them slightly. Usually, one can solder a thin wire across the rear of the buffers and that keeps them level. However, the previously mentioned air tanks are in the way and prevent that little dodge.

I cut a slot in the rear of the stock and drilled 0.5mm through the shank and inserted a length of wire. The wire will need to be perfectly flush with the outer edge of the stock otherwise it will foul the hole in the buffer beam.

 

 

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Most of the day has been spent painting the multitude of castings of this kit. The castings have all been excellent, and the only ones that needed a little fettling were the buffers, stocks and couplings (quite a bit).

I got fed up waiting for the frame extdnsions for my ABC motor bogie, so for now just used longer screws to hold the bogie frames in place. The bolt head supplied with the kit fouls the cardan shaft, do I will solder it to the bogie pivot and remove the bolt head. So the bogie, apart from painting the motor bogie frames and wheels is more or less complete, and runs, to my surprise remarkably silently! The trailing bogie is also ready for the frames to be dropped on once the wheels are dry.

 

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Edited by Mr Grumpy
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Nice ABC bogies. I have two sets of them in my EE type 4 and Peak. The Rolls Royce of bogies.

They are rather nice, very quiet, smooth and robust. I have another for my class 22, which will require modification to the 22s floor.

I have the mini 7 in the 1400 and it runs beautifully.

I'm only fitting one motor in each of my diesels, as they will only pull 2 coach and short goods trains.

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I'm running out of things to do with my Hymek as I have a two week wait for my 'Detailed Miniatures' driver figures to be made. I decided on just a driver in each cab, and I can imagine the chap in the trailing cab is the second man, perhaps sulking after a fall out with the driver :-)

Anyway, I got the bogies and fuel tank weathered, (not happy as the fuel gauge is inthe incorrect position on one side )and will freely admit to borrowing Lee's technique, which Im peeved to say came out better than mine :-) Having said that, I was trying to be a little more subtle as the loco will be modelled as being a few weeks old ; my excuse and I'm sticking with it!

The buffers are finished and work well, also I finished the loose roof panel and weathered the fan. I may have to dive in to my etched toad kit to keep me from under my wife's feet! Otherwise I can feel some household chores being lined up :-)

 

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Hi Craig,

The buffers and buffer stocks are very nice castings with very little fettling. They certainly look the part and would look great on your Heljan Hymek. The brake operating cylinders would also enhance your loco...the horns are very nice too :-)

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I spent an enjoyable hour painting in the details on the cab bulkheads and desks.

Many thanks to Lee for your resilience in obtaining the photos of the switches etc in the cabinet. I forgot to photograph the desks, but here are the bulkheads....

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Edited by Mr Grumpy
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I ordered some soft white and red 12v 2mm LEDs yesterday from 'Rapid Electronics' https://m.rapidonline.com/

Aparently they don't require resistors as they are 12v. They have an abundance of goodies that are of use to us modellers, and prices are very reasonable.

Just to say, their service is excellent as I paid for the cheapest postage available and they arrived by corriour today. I haven't tried the LEDs yet, but thought if was worth letting you guys know.

Edited by Mr Grumpy
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The light apatures on the Hymek are 2mm diameter, so I drilled them out to try out the LEDs for fit. They needed a very slight filing as they are about 2.2mm but no probs. The length of the 'tower' part of the LED is, for the Hymek spot on!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have decided to get my decoder re-blown by Legomanbiffo, as the decoder and sound project he installed in my 31 was excellent, and I think the Howes one needs to be updated to benefit from the ESU V4.

I picked up my drivers from Paul and Carole today (Detailed Miniatures).

They were designed to fit the JLTRT class 52, but they are almost spot on for my Hymek, and I would highly recommend them:-)

I have one can glazed and the LEDs all sorted, so I can crack on and get all the components that are living in coffee jar lids brought together at last :-)

 

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The LEDs were a bit of a squeeze behind the desk, and I even thought to test them before committing to glueing the cab in place. I even remembered to dust the cab and Windows! I used the anti bloom/ no fumes glue as I had used on the glazing as I worried that over time the glazing could possibly fog if fumes were trapped in the cab.

On to the other end.....

 

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