Deano747 Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Go for it Deano!! There's a good write up on Simon Varnhams 'Building 0 gauge on line' also, I have a few photos of different stages of the build. Dave was always very helpful too:-) Regards, Richard I have a horrible feeling I may be ordering a pair of 16T mineral wagons from David when I get back to the UK!! Damn work always gets in the way of fun!! (David, is it possible they can be delivered within 10 days of ordering?!) Regards, Deano. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 I hadn't meant to make a start today, I had merely nipped In to the workshop to carry out some tidying up. But as these things happen, I got distracted and got stuck in to the hopper. The hopper body is perfectly straightforward to build, you just need to think ahead before making the bends. Essentially what you see here are two sheets of brass making up the hopper and at the bottom, a veneer of two flat U shaped pieces that have rivets punched out and soldered to the hopper floor. The hopper was soldered upside down on a pane of glass to ensure it stayed square. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I have a horrible feeling I may be ordering a pair of 16T mineral wagons from David when I get back to the UK!! Damn work always gets in the way of fun!! (David, is it possible they can be delivered within 10 days of ordering?!) Regards, Deano. Usually within two days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djparkins Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 David, I wasn't meaning any criticism of your superb kits, purely a personal opinion, I would want to add all the detail whether it was seen or not, but that would be beyond my skill/ability. As for being "singled out", IMHO that's an indication of how well known and respected your kits are. Mike. Mike - I fear that it is more likely that people are prepared to put more effort into a steamer, than a diesel or a coach or 2-3 wagons - as if somehow it is a more deserving subject. DJP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 The next part up is what I guess to be some form of filter to remove the coal dust as the coal falls from the hopper on to the loading chute and then the scales. I wonder if Dave could exhibit his etchings in Tate Modern? They are certainly more worthy than some of the carp hanging in there:-) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Once all those parts are soldered together, you end up with the part joined to the hopper bottom, and a shutter that opens and closes. The shutter was annealed prior to producing the curve. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 The next instalment is making up the hopper/chute door. It involves adding three sweated bars to the door, some tricky folding of the door runners soldering the handles together and adding the three tiny cogs. All went well until I decided the door should be modelled closed, and on removal, two of the aerated bars became detached and went for a flight across the workshop:-( I generally never give up, and spent, let's say, a long time scouring the area, but they remain lost. However, there is one spare I had cut from the fret, so this was soldered in, along with the operating rod and cogs. I'm very happy with the end result, and it's now on to lots of folding for the legs and framework. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 13, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2017 The next instalment is making up the hopper/chute door. It involves adding three sweated bars to the door, some tricky folding of the door runners soldering the handles together and adding the three tiny cogs. All went well until I decided the door should be modelled closed, and on removal, two of the aerated bars became detached and went for a flight across the workshop:-( I generally never give up, and spent, let's say, a long time scouring the area, but they remain lost. However, there is one spare I had cut from the fret, so this was soldered in, along with the operating rod and cogs. I'm very happy with the end result, and it's now on to lots of folding for the legs and framework. IMG_5401.PNG IMG_5407.PNG Are you RSU'ing? Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Are you RSU'ing? Mike. Hi Mike, No I don't have one. I'm still trying to master soldering with an iron, after using a gas torch for years at work:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 13, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2017 Hi Mike, No I don't have one. I'm still trying to master soldering with an iron, after using a gas torch for years at work:-) Like yourself, had a lifetime of a gas torch, copious amounts of solder and miles of copper pipe, but there are times when a RSU will make difficult and tricky jobs considerably easier, I wouldn't be without mine, it's not the answer to everything, but, invaluable in it's own sphere, for example on your end supports. I'd recommend borrowing one if possible, you won't go back. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 It will have to wait:-) I'm hoping to make a start on my new layout soon, and all available funds will be used up on that little caper:-) I'm sure I will try one at some stage, I also used to fancy taking up silver soldering, but haven't got round to that one either! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 My hopper is finished apart from a good scrub down. I'll make the scales, coal dust box and weights tomorrow. I will leave the crane bucket grab until I have a suitable crane to attach it to:-) If the weather holds, I hope to get the etch primer on this and the wagons over the next few days. This hopper was great fun to build, and a useful training session for the MMP suburban coach chassis that I will be building later:-) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I spent the best part of a very enjoyable day making up the scales, weights and coal dust box. Everything went together perfectly, even though the scales are probably one of the fiddliest things I have made:-) I did manage to build the scales so that they worked, but got a bit of solder in to the joint, so it will stay with the weighs platform pressed down. I hope to get the primer on soon. I would thoroughly recommend this kit to anyone who has a coal yard in the in the early diesel era on. Below are the etchings for the two weights...... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 We used to have to carry those scales on the lorries in case wieghts and measures ever stopped use.very useful for holding down the empties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 I have built virtually all the buildings necessary for my Tetbury branch. So far, the buildings have mainly been from the Timbertracks range. They were all very straightforward and enjoyable to build, but one vital building was missing, the enginemans' cabin. I therefore commissioned one from Intentio, and after approval, it arrived a few days later. The building is very basic, so the kit doesn't have too many parts, but everything has been nicely cut and the window frames are exquisite :-) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 The carcass of the cabin goes together perfectly and becomes a strong, sturdy unit. I went over the door plank joints to give them a slightly aged look, and as usual, I gave the body a very light sanding to help give a key for the glue for the outer skin hold. (Probably doesn't need it, it's just something I have always done) The paint on the door will be distressed before I fit the door handle. I'm going to crack on with priming my wagons and hopper while the sun is out, and will return to finish my cabin next week. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 I like pannier tanks and had decided early on to build one for my Tetbury branch. MOK offer a 6400, but this a slight modification, can be built up as a 7400. I have photos of 7418 running on the Tetbury branch, and as I had already built my 1400 with autotrain gear, I didn't need another loco so fitted. Also, due to mostly running mixed passenger/ goods trains autotrain operation wasn't used on the line. Chassis construction is very straightforward and it can be mostly put together with the slot and tabs with only the firebox, compensation beam, horn guides and motion bracket requiring soldering prior to checking all is square. I made the rocking compensating beam a little too tight on my 1400, leaving me with a bit of remedial work further into the build, so I made certain these work freely. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 I gave the bearings a gentle rub over with 600 grit wet and dry and very lightly chamfered the shoulders, as on my previous loco, the bearings were very slightly tight, and I guess you are supposed to learn from your mistakes :-) Also, as a belt and braces precaution, I will solder up and prepare the coupling rods and chassis on my recently acquired Hobby Holidays chassis jig. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 I got the chassis and coupling rods soldered up. The jig was really useful when making up the coupling rods. The slot and tab method MOK use is great for making up sub-assemblies and the slots and tabs are so precise, you just know everything is going to fit when you bring it all together. The down side is, there is a lot of tab removal and cleaning up following soldering on exposed surfaces. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 The chassis runs very nicely. I'm really pleased as this is the first time I have attempted jointed coupling rods. This has been really useful, as I'm trying to gain more experience before building my 9f :-) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2017 A fascinating update Mr G, I didn't realise that there were any six coupled Enginemens Cabins, must have been to allow for crew transfers? Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 A fascinating update Mr G, I didn't realise that there were any six coupled Enginemens Cabins, must have been to allow for crew transfers? Mike. Admittedly Mike, I have gone slightly off piste...this is the consequence of not following the instructions! In fact by now it should look like this: :-) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 So, back to my little engine mans' cabin. The carcass of the building was smeared with wood working glue and the outer corrugated skin then carefully applied. I took a lot of time over the roof to make sure it was level all round and stayed stuck firmly down. I packed out the sides to prevent the rubber bands damaging the edge of the roof. The stove flue is made from brass tube. The whole building was then given a coat of Dulux undercoat and left to dry. After a couple of hours, the roof was painted mat black and the walls cream. The windows and door architraving were painted off the building. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 Go for it Deano!! There's a good write up on Simon Varnhams 'Building 0 gauge on line' also, I have a few photos of different stages of the build. Dave was always very helpful too:-) Regards, Richard 2 x 16T mineral wagon kits ordered friday!! (Upcoming house move may mean they sit on the shelf for a while though!) Regards, Deano. Apologies for the hijack! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 2 x 16T mineral wagon kits ordered friday!! (Upcoming house move may mean they sit on the shelf for a while though!) Regards, Deano. Apologies for the hijack! ....remember to leave the tea pot and soldering iron at the top of your packing :-)You won't regret buying them, the value for money is incredible!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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