Mr Grumpy’s Workbench: MOK 9F occasional updates

[dibateg]

The MMP GUV took me 80 hours, excluding the painting. The bogies themselves taking up 20 hours of that. They really are kits for those that enjoy building things, it was a good challenge though. I'm not in a hurry to build any more, I just found it very time consuming and very fiddly at times, that's because every single detail is included.

 

Regards

Tony

[Mr Grumpy]

The fixing holes for the body/roof are partially hidden inside the ends of the chassis, so I couldn't get access to the nuts with a spanner or spinner.

So I drilled a couple of holes in each nut and spun them on with a piece of wire inserted into the holes.

I also got the transfers on, I'll leave them to fully set for a while then I'm going to try Halfords lacquer to seal them.

I'll give the body a very light weathering then glue in the glazing and fit the interior complete with roof.

 

 

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I'm having a bit of a battle with the roof at present. I just can't get it to sit on the body correctly. The interior is, as advised in the instructions, a very tight fit. So much so, while giving it a final wriggle to the coach end, the side and rear parted company at the top corner. So I will have to take it all out again and solder the corner from the inside. I think I'll just glue the roof in place. Anyway, after 5 months, I need a bit of time away from it for now, and will have a look at making a start on my tankers and decorating the railway room, and take a fresh look at it then.

[Mr Grumpy]

Any of you who have followed my thread for a while may remember the MMP coal loading hopper I built a while back. Included in the kit is this nice little bucket grab to remove coal from the wagon and load in to the hopper. Unfortunately, the Commercial Classics crane is no longer available, so the grab will become a rusting scenic accessory to my coal yard.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

All ready for rusting away in a corner of my coal yard :-)

[Mr Grumpy]

One of my disappointments when deciding to plan Tetbury, was that there was no milk tanker traffic. There were plenty of milk churns, but none of the lovely 6 wheel tankers. When I finally discovered I couldn't fit a pint in to a quart pot, or Tetbury just wouldn't squeeze in to 18'6'', I had to design a fictitious layout which may or may not be called Titbury. Every big grey cloud has a silver lining, and I was able to design in a creamery which will be capable of comfortably holding six 3000 gal tankers.

For a bit of variety and to stop boredom creeping in, I bought 3 ex-LMS and 3 ex-GWR slaters wagons. To add further to the variety, I'm using Rumney Models exquisite loading platforms on two of the ex-GWR tankers, and all will have his etched name plates. I'm also using sprung etched W irons and CPL screw couplings. I'm also going to experiment with blackening the wheels, couplings and buffers.

I built a single wagon several years ago and didn't much like the 3 section plastic barrel, which took a fair bit of work to hide the joint seams, so I might consider rolling replacement barrels from brass sheet. I'll have a go with the plastic sections first though.

I was inspired to invest in the tanker traffic after reading Martyn's (3 LINK) account of his excellent tanker build. Like Martyn, I will use Halfords aluminium cellulose, although not much of it will be seen of it once I'm finished

Edited December 1, 2017 by Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

The tanker production line has begun :-) Each tank is made up of 3 segments plus the ends. Since the photo, I have all the pieces cut from the sprues and sanded smooth. I was going to use bagged sand as weight for the wagons, but I may nip out and buy some lead curtain weights instead.

[Mr Grumpy]

.....6 barrels ready for their first coat of primer. I'm anticipating a further touch of filler before the first coat of paint.

Edit...forgot to mention, each barrel is filled with 3oz of bagged sand. This also helps to prevent the hollow box sound.

Edited December 5, 2017 by Mr Grumpy

[Enterprisingwestern]

Are you batch building the rest of the wagon, underframe etc, which I would imagine would take up a fair bit of real estate in 7mm?

 

Mike.

[Mr Grumpy]

Are you batch building the rest of the wagon, underframe etc, which I would imagine would take up a fair bit of real estate in 7mm?

 

Mike.

Hi Mike,

I'll possibly batch build to an extent, but there are differences between the LMS and GWR wagons. Also when it comes to the ladders, I have a couple of etched platforms for two of the GWR wagons. A further deviation from the standard build is the sprung W irons. I had considered fitting them just to the centre wheels, but the etched variety are slightly thinner and would have noticed. All up, each wagon will weigh 7oz so should sit nicely on the track. Well, I hope so :-)

[Mr Grumpy]

Due to sub zero temperatures in the workshop even with the fan heater going full tilt, I have been finding things to do in warmer parts of the house. But I have made a little progress. All the buffer housings have been chemically blackened fettled and painted. The buffers, wheels and coupling hooks have also been treated but not painted.

 

There are several differences between the LMS and GWR wagons including chassis, brake linkages, buffer housings and wheels. So, I took the option of building the LMS chassis together, and once the wheels are in place, crack on with the others.

 

I'm at the stage of fitting the microstrip to the underside of the chassis girders, the only part of these kits I don't enjoy.

Also in the photo, is one of my wife's nail sanding stick things , which following a stealthy trip to her make up stuff is now mine ;-)

It's excellent for filing the cusps from the plastic parts :-)

Edited December 12, 2017 by Mr Grumpy

[ADEN]

What did you use for the blackening and how easy was it. I want to start using it on wheels but very confused what make to use.

 

Thanks

[JeffP]

If the wheels are steel, or steel tyred, try Birchwood Casey gun blue.

Available online, or from a local gunshop.

[Mr Grumpy]

What did you use for the blackening and how easy was it. I want to start using it on wheels but very confused what make to use.

Thanks

Hi Aden, Slaters tell you how to make your own in the kit instructions, but I used 'Hobby Holidays' blackening fluid as I couldn't get the Birchwood Casey fluid from the show I was attending.

Everything must be scrupulously clean and de-greased. I just individually dunked the buffers in the fluid for 20 seconds rinsed and dried them on a radiator and job done :-) The brass buffer housings took several goes, but I think it's best to do it in short treatments. The etched brass coupling hooks took around 30 seconds in one go. The first set of 6 wheels and 3 axles took a one minute application. The rest (30 wheels 18 axles) didn't take so easily, and took 3 applications. I wondered if the fluid was losing some strength.

I have ordered some Birchwood Casey fluid, one for steel the other for brass and will see how this works for future projects.

Edited December 14, 2017 by Mr Grumpy

[JeffP]

For steel bufferheads, hold the buffer at it's threaded/narrowest extermity in a pair of long nosed pliers, and heat to red heat in a gas flame.

Dunk into oil...a bit of engine oil is perfect, although 3-in-1 would do.

 

The buffer gets a good black coloration which is well-nigh impossible to remove.

[Mr Grumpy]

For steel bufferheads, hold the buffer at it's threaded/narrowest extermity in a pair of long nosed pliers, and heat to red heat in a gas flame.

Dunk into oil...a bit of engine oil is perfect, although 3-in-1 would do.

 

The buffer gets a good black coloration which is well-nigh impossible to remove.

Hi Jeff

Now you mention it, I remember doing that in metalwork lessons at school :-)

[Mr Grumpy]

The first job with the etched W irons is to punch the rivets through and form two 45 degree bends to 'joggle' the top of the W iron out.

I form the bottom bend first, then add a decent fillet of solder to the bend to prevent it trying to straighten when forming the top bend. Once the two bends are formed, I clean up the fillet.

[ADEN]

Thanks for your help I will give it a try on my next wagon build and if it works I will start using it for future projects.

 

 

Thanks

[Mr Grumpy]

A quick update on the wagon build. I'm finding the LMS version of the tanker a little more fiddly than I remember the GWR one being when I built it a few years back.

I haven't progressed much with the other two frames, but I'll be moving back to each in the new year.

With the tank temporarily in place, the suspension works a treat, and the wagon glides through a reverse bend of two Peco points effortlessly:-)

[Mr Grumpy]

One down....almost!

If the weather is kind, I'll nip out to the shed and get some primer on tomorrow. I am going to try Clostermann black etch primer for the chassis, and use this as the base to build up the weathering. The rods attaching the end beams to the middle solebar castings and the straps have all been soldered.

The tank, ladders, straps and buffers are not fixed yet. Also some small fittings and discharge valves will go on after painting. All six tanks are going to be primed with a build up type primer and rubbed back smooth, then spray painted aluminium.

The next LMS tanker will have the later tank stands fitted.

[Miss Prism]

Tightening nuts on the trussrods?

[Mr Grumpy]

Tightening nuts on the trussrods?

I actually bought nuts to go on the ends. However, looking at the LMS example at the NRM, the rods appear to be held tight by wedges driven through a slot in the rods where they come through the end beams. I haven't thought of a realistic way to reproduce the wedges.

 

Edited January 9, 2018 by Mr Grumpy

[daifly]

Having now looked at dozens of milk wagons, this seems to be very much the exception rather than the rule. I couldn’t find another contemporary milk tank wagon photo without some form of screw fastener on the ends of the rods.

Dave

[Mr Grumpy]

I think this may also be an ex LMS tanker, it also has the wedge fixings. I'll leave it as it is at present.

 

Edited January 10, 2018 by Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

Following a spray with the Clostermann black etch primer, the chassis is ready for accepting the tank. Couplings are CPL.