Castle Aching

[Edwardian]

Did you tin the bit on first use?

Did you clean it prior to that?

 

 

 

Err, no.  Didn't mention that in the Desinstructions.

 

That might be it!

 

 

 

James, what are the symptoms of your lack of success with this iron? No heat? Blobbing? Will it singe a piece of wood? The iron I use for 100 deg C solder for whitemetal doesn't singe my soldering block; it's set to something around 190 deg C, wheras the unregulated iron I use for 145 deg C solder for brass does.

 

From what you say "blobbing"

 

No clue about temperature - haven't tried igniting anything with it yet.

 

 

Can I (weather and access to your dining room permitting) call in next week with my solderiing and lekky stuff  and we have a collective effort at a bit of CA electrification?

I thought about your layout a bit on the way back to sanity and civilisation up north and reckon this diagram below to be the least to get a loco running (with added connexions if current is not getting to places).

CA trackwork.jpg

I have tried to depict it as an overlay of the trackwork

CA 12v DC trackwork.jpg

- with this pic of minimal wiring fixed below the baseboard and connected to your Duette.

(Don't worry if it doesn't make sense, we can proceed a step at a time.)

dh

 

Excellent, David, thank you.

 

You are most welcome next week, just let me know when.  It should prove a timely visit!

 

Thank you for the diagram. I have, however, succeeded in soldering two droppers - Not bad for AN ENTIRE DAY'S EFFORT!!!!! - and, as per DonW's plan, the rails at the front has the red wire and the rear rail has the black.

 

I am sure that you will make it make sense!

 

PS, the Memsahib, who watches the weather as anyone with beasts must, reckons we might be snowed in on Monday and Tuesday.  We will play it by ear.  Any day is fine for me.

Edited February 24, 2018 by Edwardian

[Regularity]

That sounds more like Leicestershire / Northamptonshire to me. Sheepy Magna (SK326015) always raised a smile on the way to the Battlefield Line. Barton-in-the-Beans (SK394065), on the other hand, go an outright laugh.

As a native of Northamptonshire (see the avatar) I would say that’s a Leicestershire thing: we would use “Great(er)” and “Little” rather than “Magna” and “Parva” - they do this in parts of Leicestershire, too, just so people don’t get the idea that all parts North of the Welland are pretentious.

[Edwardian]

As a native of Northamptonshire (see the avatar) I would say that’s a Leicestershire thing: we would use “Great(er)” and “Little” rather than “Magna” and “Parva” - they do this in parts of Leicestershire, too, just so people don’t get the idea that all parts North of the Welland are pretentious.

 

Pendon ain't in Leicestershire, though!

 

Ashby de la Zouch pretentious?

 

I'm sure I don't know what you mean!

Edited February 24, 2018 by Edwardian

[Donw]

It is probably best if David can call in and work with you. I think I mentioned in my notes that I usually tin the rail first. In fact although for most tinning a nice thin coat is what you are aiming for for soldering droppers a small blob of solder attached to the rail is ok I have then held the wire against the blob and touched the iron onto the wires which sort of melt into the blob the thing then is to withdraw the iron without moving the wires from the rail. I also clean the rail where I want to attach the wire. The wife's emery boards can be cut down to fit between chairs to clean the underside of the rail.

 

Don

 

ps it may be best to buy your own pack of emery boards  

[Edwardian]

As a native of Northamptonshire (see the avatar)

 

And here was I thinking you were a colour-blind Devonian from Lancashire

 

 

That sounds more like Leicestershire / Northamptonshire to me. Sheepy Magna (SK326015) always raised a smile on the way to the Battlefield Line. Barton-in-the-Beans (SK394065), on the other hand, go an outright laugh.

 

 

 

Appleby Magna & Parva - Leicestershire

 

Glen and Wigston Parva - ditto

 

Chew Magna - Somerset

 

Ruston Parva - East Riding of Yorkshire

 

Thornham Magna & Parva  - Mid-Suffolk

 

Any advance on Suffolk?

[sem34090]

Bidder: Tenner!

 

Auctioneer: Suffolk, going once, going twice, SOLD to you sir, a whole County.

 

Other bidders: 'E got ripped off there: oo'd pay a tenner for Suffolk?!

 

Well, you did say any advance!

 

'At

 

Coat.

 

SOLD!

Edited February 24, 2018 by sem34090

[Compound2632]

Appleby Magna & Parva - Leicestershire

 

Glen and Wigston Parva - ditto

 

Chew Magna - Somerset

 

Ruston Parva - East Riding of Yorkshire

 

Thornham Magna & Parva  - Mid-Suffolk

 

Any advance on Suffolk?

 

But not Oxfordshire/Berkshire - I'm afraid Roye England may have been going for euphony over realism.

[Argos]

I cannot get on with this new iron at all.  Result, apparently I no longer know how to solder.

 

Big step backwards.

 

Honestly, chaps, this is bloody hopeless.

 

I just don't have the skill or experience to do this.

 

This has been a stalled project for too many weeks.  It's not helping my somewhat frail mental state. In fact, it's getting me down.

 

I don't want to model another aspect of the project, because I can have no enthusiasm where I cannot see the way forward with even the fundamentals.

 

Trouble is, if I leave it, I know now that it will stay left.

 

Hi Edwardian,

 

I wouldn't be too downhearted. 

 

Whenever I use a new iron I always struggle, it takes a while to get the solder flowing again, then suddenly somethings "clicks" and all seems good.

Quite often it is not even a new iron or bit, just swapping between existing irons seems enough to disrupt the flow.

 

Regularity offers some great advice about cleaning and tinning the bit above. 

[Northroader]

You mentioned that you were using flux, I hope. When you’re soldering, first rub both pieces of what you’re doing with emery paper or a file to get them nice and shiny with no oxide, having degreased them first. dab a bit of flux on both, then apply soldering iron and solder, when you should get a nice film of solder spreading out over the piece (“tinning”) Then bring the two pieces together, apply the iron so that it is warming both pieces, as they won’t join until they’re both up to temperature, when the solder should melt with maybe a bit more solder added to fill any gaps, then leave to cool, when you can give a good tug to check you’ve got a join. You need a flux, either a paste like fluxite, or a liquid like bakers, to boil off on the surface for a final clean and encourage the solder to take. Ok, it’s messy, it can be knocked over and spilt, it can be breathed in and corrode yer innards, it can make anything nearby rusty, but flux is still good necessary stuff to use.

Edited February 24, 2018 by Northroader

[Regularity]

Err, no.  Didn't mention that in the Desinstructions

That might be it!

 

From what you say "blobbing"

 

That is the result of insufficient heat transfer, or a dirty surface (which is also not going to help the heat transfer).

Ask me how I know... ...the only difference between what you are doing and learning now and what I once did is the simple fact that I first picked up a soldering iron nearly 40 years ago. Everything you have mentioned is jogging my memory.

 

All I know about soldering is that everything has to be clean, and needs cleaning physically (purple Scothbrite is fine) and chemically (flux) and joining is easiest if both surfaces are tinned. Usually the application of flux and a hot iron is enough for a string joint.

 

I have also found that 145 solder is great for overlays and for permanently attaching things which physically fit into place, but that its low surface tension (which is why it glows and is good for overlays) means it isn’t good for creating strong structural joints. To be honest, I use 60/40 tin/lead and 70 degree lowmelt purely for attaching white metal to white metal and white metal to tinned surfaces.

 

If you remember the mantra “clean and tin” for the bit and the metals, and that a hot iron means you can dab in and out to avoid heatsoak, you will be fine.

[Guy Rixon]

We could.  You'll note, however, that where the real or 'Primary' World has a Great Massingham, which the Midland & Great Northern Joint called "Massingham" (where they pee softly, apparently), the Secondary World adds "Massingham Magna", where the West Norfolk has a station.  So, there must be a "Massingham Parva" somewhere nearby.  

 

That is not to say we cannot have big and little Achings also. I rather like the Trollopian "... Episcopi" too!

 

 

 

Actually it is a 40W.  There was David's lovely 30W, which had a huge spade of a tip, yet it loved his flux and solder and I was able to do fairly close work easily and it worked every time. 

 

This new one wants me to have 3 or 4 goes at each joint. Despite a narrower screw-driver tip, it is not so handy and I can achieve no precision with it at all. It doesn't like the solder, turns it into balls and spreads it around the layout.  It creates dirt and dross and won't behave at all. 

 

Note, I am sure it is all my fault!  David's iron simply did not take any getting used to.  This beggar is fighting me.

 

I am persevering, mind you.  Through gritted teeth, but persevering.

 

 

I am sure that it is not your fault. I suspect that the new iron is indeed fighting you.

 

In my experience, soldering gear comes in three categories: unaffordable; utter rubbish; and Antex. That includes most of the low-price "temperature-controlled soldering stations", with the exception of the cheapo one sold by Maplins which is actually quite good (against all the odds).

 

Your iron may be OK for certain jobs, like soldering circuit boards. It may not be up to what you need it to do.

 

I think an Antex XS25 would serve you better. "25" is the rating in watts (and also the typical price in pounds), but because of the superior design it actually moves more heat into the work that other, higher-rated irons. Back in the day, I tried alternative irons and got nowhere. When I got an XS25 everything changed. It was rather magical.

[St Enodoc]

As a native of Northamptonshire (see the avatar) I would say that’s a Leicestershire thing: we would use “Great(er)” and “Little” rather than “Magna” and “Parva” - they do this in parts of Leicestershire, too, just so people don’t get the idea that all parts North of the Welland are pretentious.

If you want pretentious I'll offer Norton-juxta-Twycross.

[St Enodoc]

You mentioned that you were using flux, I hope. When you’re soldering, first rub both pieces of what you’re doing with emery paper or a file to get them nice and shiny with no oxide, having degreased them first. dab a bit of flux on both, then apply soldering iron and solder, when you should get a nice film of solder spreading out over the piece (“tinning”) Then bring the two pieces together, apply the iron so that it is warming both pieces, as they won’t join until they’re both up to temperature, when the solder should melt with maybe a bit more solder added to fill any gaps, then leave to cool, when you can give a good tug to check you’ve got a join. You need a flux, either a paste like fluxite, or a liquid like bakers, to boil off on the surface for a final clean and encourage the solder to take. Ok, it’s messy, it can be knocked over and spilt, it can be breathed in and corrode yer innards, it can make anything nearby rusty, but flux is still good necessary stuff to use.

I wouldn't use Baker's Fluid on track as it would be nigh on impossible to clean it off, leaving an acidic residue that will eventually cause the joint to fail. Fluxite is superb as a) being a paste it stays where you put it and b) the residue can be wiped away with tissue and even if there is any left it is pretty well inert. Oh, and the vapour/fumes from Baker's will rust any steel items in the same county.

[Northroader]

Another place name with a strange use of Latin slipped in, “Ruyton - XI- towns” in Shropshire, pronounced “Ruyton eleven towns”, although when you get there you’ll find just one small village, why? dunno.

[Northroader]

I wouldn't use Baker's Fluid on track as it would be nigh on impossible to clean it off, leaving an acidic residue that will eventually cause the joint to fail. Fluxite is superb as a) being a paste it stays where you put it and b) the residue can be wiped away with tissue and even if there is any left it is pretty well inert. Oh, and the vapour/fumes from Baker's will rust any steel items in the same county.

Yes, but it’s fun!

[Edwardian]

Much helpful advice.  I will treat the tip as suggested by Simon in the morning, and ensure I abrade all surfaces prior to tinning. 

 

Thanks, chaps.

[Regularity]

Much helpful advice.  I will treat the tip as suggested by Simon in the morning, and ensure I abrade all surfaces prior to tinning. 

 

Thanks, chaps.

Toothbrush and scouring cream for the tip, scotchbrite for the rest (to be honest, although the purple stuff is the best, I usually use whatever I can find about the house, cutting off a strip before it gets used).

 

Physically clean. Chemically clean. Tinned. Fluxed.

Then apply sufficient heat.

All there is to it.

[Donw]

Of course you can also make good joints when ignoring the rules. I remember when I took my Resistance Soldering unit to the local 0 gauge group the late Martin Brent showed me how weak a joint made with solder paste could be then how Frys Powerflow flux could clean brass well enough to solder without cleaning it first and it was stronger than with the paste. The thing is you may get away with it some times but why make it difficult. Clean the work first then the flux will keep it clean while applying the heat. The other thing is solder responds to practice once you get to know the iron flux and solder you are using it becomes easier. 

 

Don

[NCB]

Remember that a major purpose of flux is transfer heat to the joint, not just clean it. So don't stint it.

[St Enodoc]

Remember that a major purpose of flux is transfer heat to the joint, not just clean it. So don't stint it.

Exactly. Flux = flow, both heat and solder.

[CF MRC]

Beware of Powerflow flux leaving an impossible-to-remove residue that will impede painting. I use phosphoric acid for most (non electrical) soldering

 

Tim

[Hroth]

All good advice on soldering, I wish I followed it now and then!

 

I've found that a well cleaned and tinned 25w Antex with a proper tin/lead solder and flux to taste (as it were...) gets you out of most problems.

 

 

As for town/village names, my copy of Barchester Towers shows that Barchester itself is served by a branch line from a GWR main line at Barchester Junction.  Sadly the branch (or main line) doesn't go anywhere near Plumstead Episcopi!

 

In the real world, Cheshire doesn't have that many "oddities" but can offer Aston juxtra Mondrum, two Crewes (one with a railway and one without) and Cholmondeley (which has a castle) but is pronounced Chumly!

 

I almost forgot the Alderleys: Alderley Edge, Nether Alderley and Over Alderley.

 

Then there's a village near Sandbach called Arclid.  Its on Spark Lane...

 

 

 

Hmmmm....

[Edwardian]

All good advice on soldering, I wish I followed it now and then!

 

I've found that a well cleaned and tinned 25w Antex with a proper tin/lead solder and flux to taste (as it were...) gets you out of most problems.

 

 

As for town/village names, my copy of Barchester Towers shows that Barchester itself is served by a branch line from a GWR main line at Barchester Junction.  Sadly the branch (or main line) doesn't go anywhere near Plumstead Episcopi!

 

In the real world, Cheshire doesn't have that many "oddities" but can offer Aston juxtra Mondrum, two Crewes (one with a railway and one without) and Cholmondeley (which has a castle) but is pronounced Chumly!

 

I almost forgot the Alderleys: Alderley Edge, Nether Alderley and Over Alderley.

 

Then there's a village near Sandbach called Arclid.  Its on Spark Lane...

 

 

 

Hmmmm....

 

That's right.  I remember from the books that Plumpstead Episcopi was not on the railway.  I somehow feel that Archdeacon Grantly would not have approved of railways any more than of round dining tables!  Both horribly democratic.

 

In the Thirties, Angela Thirkell adopted Barsetshire geography and added places and railways.  There was a 1960s Model Railway News article, IIRC, that tied all this up and showed the GW and LMS lines of Barsetshire. 

[Compound2632]

That's right.  I remember from the books that Plumpstead Episcopi was not on the railway.  I somehow feel that Archdeacon Grantly would not have approved of railways any more than of round dining tables!  Both horribly democratic.

 

In the Thirties, Angela Thirkell adopted Barsetshire geography and added places and railways.  There was a 1960s Model Railway News article, IIRC, that tied all this up and showed the GW and LMS lines of Barsetshire. 

 

I can't find the reference but there's a passage in, I think, Barchester Towers, where Dr Grantly is floundering about trying to find the train times to London. Mrs Grantly (who holds the reigns of power, despite appearances) explains that he should follow the "usual procedure", which is, to pass her the Bradshaw. Trollope has some interesting views on how the Church of England actually functioned: he describes Mrs Grantly's sister, Mrs Arabin, wife of the high church vicar, as "priestess".

 

D. Sherwin Bailey, Names and Places, Model Railway News, January 1959. (Don't be too impressed - my library is not that comprehensive. Many years ago I inherited a small pile of MRNs from 1967-1971 - not a complete run - that just happened to include this one older issue.) As well as the principal east-west lines - Great Western and Southern (ex-LSWR), Thirkell's Barsetshire includes a north-south line which, the author of the article surmises, is in fact an offshoot of the Midland. Trollope's Barsetshire is supposedly based on Wiltshire, with Barchester corresponding to Salisbury, so this Midland line neatly covers the territory between the S&DJR and the M&SWJR.

[DonB]

A couple more place names --

 

Milton-under-Wichwood  (Cotswolds)

 

Barton-under-Needwood  (Staffordshire)