Les le Breton Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Wyre Piddle anyone? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 There’s a whole host of Piddles... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 "...and what about the Land of the Prince Bishops?" where we used to think in French. Hetton-le-Hole Chester-le-Street Chester-le-Track (good for tickets) Pity Me Quaking Houses isn't just a class place to live it has a powerful cultural presence* dh *those guys are now in their 50s! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Wyre Piddle anyone? Wonderful place, wonderful lock on the river.... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 And close by all these puddles, on the edge of Bere Regis, is the wonderfully named “Sh1tterton”. Apologies to those offended by the vulgarity, but it is a real place name and unlike other places names which have corrupted over time to have an unfortunate homophonic resemblance to the old word for excrement, this was so named because that’s where they put it. Actually, no apologies: it is what it is, and reflects a practical approach to language. Northamptonshire seems to be escaping a lot of the silly place names, but there is an area that was re-named “Boothville” after the relocated people arriving into the new town objected to the original place name, which I never thought odd as I was born and grew up a few miles from it: Buttock’s Booth. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassey Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) The iron you have may be designed for electrically boards but is too powerful in terms of wattage for what you intend to do. It gets too hot which is why it turns solder to blobs instantly. The pointy tip does not help either. For track work it may well melt chairs before soldering anything. I produced all my track and wiring with an 18w Antex iron. The track is soldered to brass rivets every five or six sleepers so I've had quite a lot of practice. You can pick the solder up with the bit and take it to the job which sometimes helps. The tip is not pointed nor is it a chisel but still quite thin. I clean track with a fibre glass pencil and use Carr's orange label flux for track and electrics as it is non corrosive and does not need serious cleaning up afterwards. I use ordinary multicore solder which also contains flux and has also proved quite clean. I pick the solder up off of a clean piece of glass having previously wiped it on a solder sponge (the bit that is; which must cool it slightly). A 25w watt iron (I have one too) gets too hot and cracks the glass. How do I know? I have an Antex temperature controlled iron for whitemetal with Yellow Label flux. It has the same tip as the 18W. And for everything else, i.e. etched kits, 145 solder and Green label flux again with the 18w iron. All this was recommended in Iain Rice's books on track and loco building and it works for me too. The 25W is now reserved for emergency use as I am now onto my second 18W so they do not last forever. So it's another new iron I'm afraid and at slightly more expensive. PS: I do most of my soldering onto glass which is a lot cleaner than the workbench. I picked this up from Jol Wilkinson's instructions for making London Road Models LNWR kits. Edited February 25, 2018 by Brassey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 Back to electrikery... A useful way to think of electricity is to compare it with water. Current is exactly the same: the rate of flow. Voltage is a measure of pressure - same current through a narrower aperture will require more pressure. Power is the combination of pressure and flow, and reflects the amount of energy produced over time. Thus, an on/off switch is like an on/off valve. A screw faucet is analogous to a potentiometer (variable resistor). A resistor is like a constriction due to a narrower bore pipe, where without changing the pressure, the flow is reduced. A diode is a non-return valve - and if you put that in the wrong way, you may as well not have bothered. Other switches, “double throw”, are like sluice gates, in that you can direct outflowing water into different streams and indeed, choose which source to use to fill a receptacle. A “double pole” switch is simply two switches working in parallel. Finally, a capacitor is rather like a pool up against a weir. That is provides a reserve of water up to a point, and once that point is reached, the water comes over the weir. You can add things like locks (switches) to bypass this in certain ways, or indeed allow some water to escape via a mill race, which being narrow is a resistance to control the outflow (and which is essentially how we provide “inertia simulation” in DC controllers) and can of course be further controlled with sluice gates. Hope that helps. If you understand how everything combines to provide that last analogy, you are there. Oh, and one last point, electricity requires a complete circuit as it is a closed system, and with a battery cell, you push electrons out of one end and put them back in the other. (Chemical interactions use up small amounts of energy in the process, so batteries do not last for ever.) you may think this doesn’t fit with the analogy, but it does. Water flows eventually to the sea and into plants, where evaporation takes it back into the coulds, to fall down as rain and replenish the streams. If you put all the water into underground caves, eventually the rain would disappear... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 Different opinions on irons and solder! This is not conflicting advice, merely the fact that provided you clean and flux and have a sufficiently hot iron, then you can develop your own technique to suit. Personally I have a 25W iron for when I can’t use my main iron, which is an Antex 50W temperature controlled iron, normally set to about 350 degrees, and I use 9% phosphoric acid solution as flux (very occasionally fluxite) and 60/40 for just about everything - I have had some negative experiences with 145 solder, but then again I am do not usually build from etched kits, so do not have slots and tabs to provide mechanical support for the joint. If it is a big joint, I can whack up the temperature setting a bit, and for white metal I wind the temperature down to about 100, and simply wipe the bit throughly after use (whilst hot) to remove residues of low-melt. Personally, I wouldn’t let green label flux anywhere near just about anything. For butt-joints, 145 fails, in my experience: it needs something else, in which case it does a good job of getting into the small nooks and crevices. I prefer to get in and out quickly with a larger iron than some, as this avoids heat building up in situ. I generally avoid brass for the same reason! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 I always hark back to my first year of secondary school and current being explained by rabbits running around a circular tunnel. David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 More to give you chaps a giggle than ad something to copy, but here is my high-tech, worked fine for donkeys years, temperature controlled soldering station. One lighting dimmer (200W), one socket, and batten fitting. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 A thorough understanding of the principles, if I may say so. I take it that you have a socket very near your workbench, so that you can easily make adjustments? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) I did have a nice bank of sockets, which I’d installed right above the bench, but since we moved house that lead is too short, and needs to be changed, which shows that is a while since I soldered white-metal or anything finicky with brass that needed different solders. Edited February 25, 2018 by Nearholmer 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 It's alive! It's Alive!! It's ALIVE!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 So, below is a diagram of what I have managed this weekend. The platform road and loop have been laid. Both are longer than a standard length of flexi-track. Rather than link the two pieces electrically, I have left them as sections isolated from one another and have added droppers to both sections. Eventually these will go to section switches (I guess!) The droppers are made by soldering the wires to brass nails that are soldered to the bottoms of the rails. For now I have taken the wires from both sections of the platform roads and joined them at the controller terminals, giving me the ability to run the entire length of the platform road. Here, hopefully, is a video link: https://vimeo.com/257367618. First movement on CA. 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sem34090 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 A great moment, and a triumph! The day has finally come on page 331 (A nice, not round, number!) and as such I feel this is a cause for great celebration in the town of Castle Aching. Until one of the local lads decides to take the path across the railway line he's taken for two years (since construction started) and ends up severely injured as the result of an electric shock... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Da daah dah da-da; da da da da da dum dum; Dum dum dah da dum da; Dee Dee da Dee dum dum dum. Musical people should easily be able to improve on this. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 "...and what about the Land of the Prince Bishops?" where we used to think in French. Hetton-le-Hole Chester-le-Street Chester-le-Track (good for tickets) Pity Me Quaking Houses isn't just a class place to live it has a powerful cultural presence* dh *those guys are now in their 50s! You can't beat Pity Me as a place name. I also like Neville's Cross - why, what did you do to upset him? - and Merrybent, which we call "Merry-hell-bent" 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Da daah dah da-da; da da da da da dum dum; Dum dum dah da dum da; Dee Dee da Dee dum dum dum. Musical people should easily be able to improve on this. I'll Name That Tune in... ummmm..... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I'll Name That Tune in... ummmm..... Ummmm dumm did dum is an entirely different tune! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 "Sparks effect" at CA! Passenger numbers greatly increased! Congrats on teaching your tame volts some tricks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 You can't beat Pity Me as a place name. Oh yes you can!! There's No Place, near Beamish and in Perthshire there's Dull which is twinned with Boring in Oregon USA. May I add my congratulations to you, James, on having conquered yet another of your fears and tamed Leckie! On the subject of soldering, One requirement of any craft (and modelling of any kind is surely a craft) is in learning how to handle the materials, use the appropriate ones (and tools) for the task and so be able to use them creatively. Some of us can use card to create superb models, others can't. I'm not in the first category. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) And here was I thinking you were a colour-blind Devonian from Lancashire Appleby Magna & Parva - Leicestershire Glen and Wigston Parva - ditto Chew Magna - Somerset Ruston Parva - East Riding of Yorkshire Thornham Magna & Parva - Mid-Suffolk Any advance on Suffolk? In North Norfolk we have mainly 'Great' and 'Little' as at Walsingham, Snoring, Massingham etc. Nothing particularly logical about it though: Little Walsingham is WAY bigger than Great Walsingham! Edited March 5, 2018 by wagonman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hroth Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Ummmm dumm did dum is an entirely different tune! But completely different to Ahem.... Rumpty tumpty tumpty tum Rumpty tumpty tum tum Rumpty tumpty tumpty tum Rumpty tumtippy tum Ithenkyow!!!!! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 A great moment, and a triumph! The day has finally come on page 331 (A nice, not round, number!) and as such It is indeed a prime number if I'm not mistaken (I often am where numbers are concerned). Congratulations on the electrification of the Soviet Union West Norfolk Railway! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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