lyneux Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Where would I be able to get some of them. You can order them from my Shapeway's shop: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/olympiamodels You'll need Markits bearings, sequins & o-rings of the appropriate size (from eBay) to make the suspension units and Colin Craig's wheels to finish them off. Assembly instructions (and photos) here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/864/entry-8177-arc-hanson-jha-part-5-prints-of-the-revised-ltf-25-design/ Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazynitwit Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Marco, unless I got hold of the wrong end of the stick, Crazynitwit made them using a 3D printer. On another subject I got some photos of 'EANOS' at Moorsburger (Hamburg Harburg) yesterday. The variations are staggering. No two wagons appear the same. There are common aspects to each but it is a minefield when it comes to lettering, grab handles, steps, bogies and damage. It took these photos to help with the weathering and detailing on the ones I built earlier in the year. image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg You must be thinking of someone else as I don't even have a 3d printer yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Ah so I did get the wrong end of the stick... Apologies Crazynitwit, it was Lyneux, see above. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 From my research and photos on the net... Would I be right in thinking the Dapol HIA can be converted to a Hanson JHA with the addition of ltf bogies.. Just wondered.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazynitwit Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 From my research and photos on the net... Would I be right in thinking the Dapol HIA can be converted to a Hanson JHA with the addition of ltf bogies.. Just wondered..I think there is already a Hanson's jha. Not entirely sure though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 From my research and photos on the net... Would I be right in thinking the Dapol HIA can be converted to a Hanson JHA with the addition of ltf bogies.. Just wondered.. Unfortunately not, they are quite different. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Yes ive seen.. Don't mrl have HIA in another guise... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Im thinkin of getting some Dapol HIA and putting TF25 BOGIES on em thus making mrl IIA.. And using moddelers 'Licence'..can I get away with it.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 15, 2017 Author Share Posted November 15, 2017 A little something like this???? It would need a few details on the main body changed but at a quick glance there appears not a huge amount of difference. However I don't have the drawings to compare the two and against each other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Arr yes.. I think someone will know those minute details... If any... I have some homemade mrl transfers if you feel tempted Grizz lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Polypipe cut to length. It is so frustrating that I have little time to model these days. These wagons were started two years ago. Only one got finished at the time in DB red. Doubt I'll get that much done today. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 This piece at the bottom of the pipe and above the sole bar, supports the .025mm over all styrene sheet the goes over the top of the pipe down to the bottom of the sole plates on both sides. It prevents the thin sheet bowing inwards. The ribs are then add after, these are usually .010 x .010mm square. The tissue paper is PVA'd over the. top of the lot. This is then spray with Halfords rattle can primer, usually red oxide. Once dry it creates a hard shell, which can then have a gloss spray applied over the top of that. This stiffens it further and allows the application of transfers etc. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 This wagon was at Padborg, South Jutland, Denmark, just over the boarder from Germany, last Saturday. On this wagon the tarpaulin hood is saggy between the ribs. It seems that this must happen over time as it probably stretches with use. Others are much tighter and the ribs can hardly be seen. It might be possible to represent the differences in this condition by varying the thickness of the ribs. This wagon also at Padborg has a much tighter hood. It seems to be slightly larger than the previous one. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazynitwit Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 This wagon was at Padborg, South Jutland, Denmark, just over the boarder from Germany, last Saturday. image.jpg On this wagon the tarpaulin hood is saggy between the ribs. It seems that this must happen over time as it probably stretches with use. Others are much tighter and the ribs can hardly be seen. It might be possible to represent the differences in this condition by varying the thickness of the ribs. This wagon also at Padborg has a much tighter hood. It seems to be slightly larger than the previous one. image.jpg You've got a lot further with yours than I have with mine. Still need to get some pipe for the body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 It might seem that way but I had built the wagons two years ago, just that I didn't build the middle bit with the hood. This is the pipe installed with the supports and the .010mm sheet cut ready to fit. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 The sheet is the fixed on one side level with the top of the sole bar. Once it has gone off then the liquid poly is spread out over the pipe and the down level with the top of the sole bar on the opposite side. The thin sheet is easy to form and the liquid poly helps to soften it. I tired with half mm sheet but this was too thick. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Sheet in place...... It does need to be held tight until the liquid poly has started to go off. Given how thin the sheet is this doesn't take long. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 I'm sure I've linked to this site before, but there have recently been a lot of views of Tergnier wagon-repair depot, with some views of wagons with just the framing for the hoods:- https://lapassiondutrain.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Tergnier Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Ah I should have said that I learnt early on to mark up the ribs before attaching the flat sheet. Only this batch I forgot until I got to the third wagon in a batch of four!!! DOH! It is soooooo much easier to do it before attaching it I saved a whole bunch of tissue paper from various presents given to my wife over the past year. Pink seems to be a good base colour for a DB red wagon. But that said a good dose of Halfords car primer will sort anything. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Ribs are installed....... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Ribs completed. This requires the end framing to be complete after the tissue paper has bee PVA'd in place. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 Great insight into this type of construction and how it can be simplified and achieved... Having a little break from the wagons at the moment but looking for a project. ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 Cheers Marco. I have had to re-centre the bogies and adjust the coupling out of the pocket by approx 3mm to make it operational past the buffers and look right. I'll have to put a spot of Evostick Impact adhesive in the gap to hold it in place. This has worked quite well in the past on previous wagons. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 The next stage is the tarpaulin hood. I've tried different methods but the best way I have found is to use the same tissue paper that is used in the building of model gliders or comes out of shoes or present rapping. Once it is cut to size and laid over the body I then brush plain tap water over it to wet it into shape. Using the brush from the middle of the top of the wagon down the sides and towards the ends. This helps to iron out too many creases. Once this is in place and you are happy with it then apply PVA using a brush. Covering the whole wagon body it will work its way through the tissue. If you use thin tissue be ware because vigorous brushing can tear it. It might be better to use a spray bottle. The water that was applied first helps to pull the PVA through the tissue. It will then set in this shape once it dries. You might find that the tissue stretches slightly so you could end up having to trim it around the bottom edges at the top of the sole bar. Aon e thoroughly dry an initial I use an initial coat of halfords primer. Then once this has thoroughly dried over coat it with a gloss top coat. This helps to make the tarpaulin hood solid. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Tarpaulin hood in place and dry. Only takes a few hours to dry out. Ends trimmed to suit. Now requires brake wheels, ferry tie downs and hooks. Then a spray up. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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