Satan's Goldfish Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Satans Goldfish what type of decal paper did you use and what type of printer??? Frustratingly I have had a go at printing a few waterslide transfers using quite a good laser printer but the age old problem of needing white print is a pain, none of them turned out particularly well. The best method I found was the water slide sheets from crafty computer paper for lazer printers (work had a colour lazer printer). Depending on what i needed to create would depend if i used a clear sheet or a white sheet, and I came up with a few methods through trial and error. 1. Dark colours on light back grounds; Printers always assume you are printing onto white, so if your lettering or logo is dark on a light back ground then use clear waterslide paper: Even the orange of the nedlloyd logo is printed on clear. 2. Light colours on dark back grounds; Print on white waterslide paper and cut to size. Tall thin logos quite easy as they are small and the edges are hidden by the container ribs. Of note though is the OCL box, that had a brown box added around the logo before printing. It was cut from the paper with a small amount of the brown on each side which blended in seamlessly with the pain when applied and kept a perfect sized rectangle around the logo. My hand isn't steady enough to have cut that! 3. Combining the 2; This is a mix of clear and white waterslide prints to create the whole effect. Just took time checking which parts need printing on which paper, it's easy to get it wrong: Blue is an @rse to colour match. Below, the bottom container's CAST logo only has a blue surround and colour matching the rest of the box to it was tough. Got as close as possible then added patches of different colours to look like repairs. The data panel at the top right corner had the same problem. To overcome this, the container on top has its entire side as 1 large transfer. Colour differences at corners is less noticeable. 4. That experiment lead to full body transfers; Much easier for creating large logos and not misaligning anything. Bottom box printed on white. Top box printed on clear but the side of the container was painted white before application, if you look at the ends of the transfer you can see it darken where it's over grey rather than white. 5. Mixing paint and transfers. The vertical and horizontal logos below are printed on clear. The box was painted blue then masked up to add the white panels where the logos are applied. Hopefully that gives you some pointers on creating and applying. The art for mine is all created in ms paint and as large as possible. I then move the finished picture into ms PowerPoint where I have a template with rulers along the side and bottom so I can shrink the images to the right size. The limiting factor then becomes the quality of the printer. On the BOC tanker below the writing on the red panels all disappeared when printed, but 'TEA' is still visible on the black TOPS panel. HTH, 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Can you do me some JYA tops code panels please, thanks. Buy you some chocolate biscuits lol... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 I'm a bit busy for a few weeks but can do later in the year. I need to print some ferry wagon and tiphook transfers for some wagon projects anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Il start saving up for the biscuits! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted July 28, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi I had some transfers printed by Brunel Models in Australia from my own artwork about ten years ago for my N gauge version of the BOC tankers although I've only got one to the stage of transfers. I'm not happy with the underframe so I need to revisit that before tackling the other seven wagons. The lettering came out quite well on the red panels using the white of the barrel. Sadly Brunel Models no longer do custom work. Cheers Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 Wow Satan's Golfish superb transfers and containers. Think I'll get some decal paper and have a go. Got a fairly large laser printer available but not until Monday....... How did you fix the ink??? In the meantime I got very side tracked on to 'Modern European Scratch Built.......Locos!!!!!'..... Picked up 6 Heljan Class 17 Clayton chassis for a tenner each three years ago. All worked so I tried to get bodies for them, to no avail. So scratch built was the way forward. Thought about kit bashing 2 x Dapol Drewery Shunters back to back but finally settled on this......German / Frencg looking job. Painfully slow going though. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Grizz, Laser ink applies well to the paper without needing sealing before getting wet. Container/wagon Surfaces receive a Matt varnish before and then after transfer application (combination of hot water with a drop of washing up liquid, and microset/microsol when applying) and have lasted very well. Inkjet paper isn't as user friendly I've found, that does need a spray varnish before soaking to apply otherwise all the ink comes off. Too little varnish and they come off still, too much varnish and the paper and transfer go stiff and unusable. So I've gone back to laser. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 The 'Clayton' rebuild into a 'Euro' loco has reached initial spraying..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Getting there.......slowly. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Looking very nice, it reminds me of the locos used for shunting at the channel tunnel or in steel works. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Grizz , managed to get hold of some Bachman HHA spare bogies without wheelsets..what size do you put in em, ? the Bachman ones I've been using for all of my projects are a bit big as they are fouling the brake shoes on these. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Marco great to hear you got some TF25s. The wheels to use are Bachmann Branchline 36-034 Brass turned wagon disc wheels on 10 metal axles (12mm diameter). The well known Liverpool based supplier have them in at £9.99 for 10. If yours are the same as the batch I got you will need to trim the brake blocks or use a half round file to open them out. They also have the coupling housing set quite far forward so depending on what type of wagon you are modelling you might need to trim them back to the desired length. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted August 1, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2017 Just be careful with TF25s and wheelsizes - there are quite a few variants! Everything from about 840mm to 1000mm IIRC (which in 4mm is 11mm - 13mm). If 12mm wheelsets are slightly too big for the Bachmann bogies then it sounds like they might have modelled one of the smaller wheelsets. Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Something like this....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 M Just be careful with TF25s and wheelsizes - there are quite a few variants! Everything from about 840mm to 1000mm IIRC (which in 4mm is 11mm - 13mm). If 12mm wheelsets are slightly too big for the Bachmann bogies then it sounds like they might have modelled one of the smaller wheelsets. Cheers, Mike Mike you are spot on. IMHO the commercially available wagon wheel sets, normally sold as Bachmann spares, don't fit in the TF25s without modifying the brake blocks. The nearest I could get to fit are the 36-034s turned jobs and these are large when compared with the ones under the Bachmann container flats. Which for some perverse reason are not sold as a spare. As I have moaned about here before, RTR spare wagon bogies are expensive for what they are. I was extremely lucky to be in the right place at the right time several years ago. I have often wondered if they were sold so cheaply because no wheel sets were made available. Sad really as I have had so much enjoyment from using them to create wagons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Marco great to hear you got some TF25s. The wheels to use are Bachmann Branchline 36-034 Brass turned wagon disc wheels on 10 metal axles (12mm diameter). The well known Liverpool based supplier have them in at £9.99 for 10. If yours are the same as the batch I got you will need to trim the brake blocks or use a half round file to open them out. They also have the coupling housing set quite far forward so depending on what type of wagon you are modelling you might need to trim them back to the desired length. Yes ive been using the 36-034, perfect so far but some wagons have smaller wheels as noted from the Bible. I see what you mean about the brake shoes - they may have to go. Yes they are same tf25 you have. But better than building white metal ones. I may try some 8mm wheels from Genesis kits, a bit expensive at 8pound for 4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Mmmmmmm quite pricey for those wheels, £8 for 4!!!! I've just invested in the Bachmann straight couplings 36-030, it's only taken over 6 months for them to become available again. Don't know why it should take so long for a very basic item. IMHO the Hornby ones are not as good. Like I said though the TF25s have the coupling set quite far forward. It is best seen on the Lafarge bogie cement tank. This usually involves shortening the straight plastic between the housing and the first wheel set. Which wagons have you used them under? I've noticed that there numerous types of TF25s, there is a good summary on Innobogies.de, that explains the development. The one the interests me has the brake wheel on it. Some of the Bachmann ones come with this feature but those that don't I have added brass hand wheels from L51 threaded in a suitable length of brass wire. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter123 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 These have been turning up at Crawley New Yard for a while now. Mostly in the afternoon. They have no loco with them by the time I go past them, it just seems to turn up dump them and go. The only branding I can see on the wagons is the VTG logo. I would like to build a few of these....anyone know what they are and what the working is?image.jpgThe Down Newhaven Ash train was a GBRF 66 this morning with ERMEWA JNAs. This is occasionally turning up although I'm not sure why. Again I would like a few of these. Just been looking through your topic and thought this might be of interest. I got them from a German Model Shop via mail order about 4 or 5 years ago. They are by ACME Ref No 45060. Not precisely the same as those in your picture as the body has more ribbing and there is no brake wheel etc. Obviously HO scale but if you don't fancy scratchbuilding you might be able to still source-maybe from either German or Italian sites. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 I like the backscene!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 Mrl vtg JNA are on the to do list. Handy as they sit on tf25 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 Good choice Marco.....would look good with the forth coming Class 59. When it turns up. These are the ones with the hand brake wheel attached to the bogies. Some of the TF25s I got had these already attached but others didn't. Those brass hand wheels I got from 51L were just the right type and size. The shocks seem to vary in colour when new although they all end up 'road dirt brown' in the end. What buffers are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Buffers from nairneshire... That reminds me to order some more Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizz Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 Nearly finished. I found some of these Busch rub on DB transfers on eBay a couple of years back. Having put them somewhere safe typically I couldn't find them, until this afternoon. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcoblanco Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 O&K jya nearing completion. Just need to work out coupling arranging.. Thanks to mr heepes for transfers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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