ejstubbs Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I'm trying to decide on plugs and sockets to use for distributing power and point control wiring between baseboards. An obvious choice would seem to be full-sized DIN plugs and sockets. Can they handle the sort of current that solenoid point motors draw, albeit only fleetingly? I think I've also read of people using computer connectors such as RS-232 25-pin or VGA 15-pin, but to me the pins on those look much less likely to be able to carry the sort of currents that model railway equipment can sometimes draw. Am I underestimating their usefulness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28XX Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Is this for occasional use? Eg a future house move, or is the layout going to an exhibition every other week? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejstubbs Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Occasional use, not regular dismantling and re-assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold unravelled Posted April 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2016 I have loads of spare 5 pin 180 degree latching din plugs and sockets. This is the rs link, I think the version I have is now obsolete http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/din-connectors/0478239/ They are ex equipment and would need the existing leads removed before use. I also have 25 pin rs232 connectors if preferred. If they would suit, let me know how many, and I'll send them, (PM me an address). Thanks Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I use 12 pin pluggable choc-blocks, available in various current carrying versions from various sources. Mine are big chunky ones that take a bit of pulling apart/putting together. I've never managed to post a picture on here and copy and paste of live links isn't reliable either, so can't show you them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 'D' connectors are on the whole a lot better than DIN plugs and both are typically rated for 5A, but I would not trust a DIN to stay together as well as a 'D'. There are some high quality DIN connectors that are worth considering and those latching ones mentioned above are probably of the better type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 I use 12 pin pluggable choc-blocks, available in various current carrying versions from various sources. Mine are big chunky ones that take a bit of pulling apart/putting together. I've never managed to post a picture on here and copy and paste of live links isn't reliable either, so can't show you them. Let me help...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted April 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2016 I would recommend XLR plugs and sockets every time. They are more or less bomb proof, have positive latches and don't fall apart. The terminals are either holed-tags or solderbuckets, and will take at least 5 amps, with upto 7 ways (although I think I have seen more...) Proper professional kit.... Heres the neutrik versions: http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xlr-connectors/xlr-cable-connectors/ Andy G 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 There is no single good solution. Instantaneous currents are quite high with some capacitor discharge systems, several amps probably nearer 10 than 5, but well within the capability of the 5 amp car wiring I use. I find 90% of wiring faults are poor connections, 50% connectors and 40% solder joints, The higher the current the more likely to fail. I would not use Din plugs for points, I use them for wander lead controllers with currents down in the milliamp range, they are sods to solder wires to and fall apart after a few connects and disconnects. Choc blocks are ok but keeping the wires secure under the single screws is a challenge, big blob of solder on the wire end helps but you need good strain relief on the wires to stop one pulling out. My connector of choice is the multipin car wiring connector if it only has to be removed occasionally, easy to solder or crimp and available for pennies from your friendly local car breaker. I never tried a D connector. As regards wiring plans I commit them to memory and then forget, but if it is laid out logically then it should not be a problem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted April 8, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) Back when I was actually trying to build a layout (when I had a place to do so) I decided on Bulgin 8 pin plugs and sockets for power transfer between boards (data was to be by 9, 15, 25 or 50-pin D plugs). However, I never actually got to test them 'in anger' so can't vouch for their reliability or robustness. I do hope one day to be able to see how they fare. They are supposed to be capable of 6A per pin: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/bulgin-6a-px0551-flex-mount-male-circular-connector-hl39n http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/bulgin-6a-px0552-panel-mount-female-circular-connector-hl40t So, something to consider, but I can't vouch for them. Edited April 8, 2016 by Ian J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted April 8, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2016 I use 12 pin pluggable choc-blocks, available in various current carrying versions from various sources. Mine are big chunky ones that take a bit of pulling apart/putting together. I've never managed to post a picture on here and copy and paste of live links isn't reliable either, so can't show you them. For occasional use you can make your own for about 20% of the price of plug-together blocks. You just have to loosen/tighten one row of the screws if you want to split them. The blocks are 17mm wide. The joiners are made of earth wire from scrap mains cable. It is bent double to be easier to clamr in and to give a smooth end when taken apart. They are fixed to stick out 8mm. I use the pin half fixed to the board wiring and the socket side for the cable from the control panel. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord of Narnia Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I have read that scart connectors are useful but would they handle the currents? I am about to consider the electrics for my layout too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nile_Griffith Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Would recommend the plug in connector strip. Con's you need to devise your own cable retain/strain relief, but on the bottom of a baseboard thats not too difficult to come up with. Secondly making sure you terminate your wiring well. As mentioned a blob of soldier to tin the ends goes a long way, but I would n't advise the use of solid cored wiring such as telephone cable. One advantage that the connector strip method does have, is that they are darn site easier to "meter" out when you are trying to chase a wiring problem. With any other shrouded connector you have to take them apart and all the pfaff that goes with that. A line of connector strip fixed to the underside of your baseboard is pretty easy to get your multimeter probes into. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnb Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I have read that scart connectors are useful but would they handle the currents? I am about to consider the electrics for my layout too. Scarts look to have fairly substantial pins, but they never seem to hold into their sockets very well. All the ones that I have seen do not have any retaining method/clips. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 If you really need to use connectors, how about an automotive type? ............. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151430793986?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=450620463605&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT .................. they will take the current you're talking about, and the type of cable you should be using Emma 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KalKat Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Just spotted the enquiry over SCARTs ........... they are the work of the Devil and fit only for the bin! Emma 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 I have read that scart connectors are useful but would they handle the currents? I am about to consider the electrics for my layout too. SCART = Seriously Cheap And Really Tinny. Avoid them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Memphis32 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Tinning wire to go into screw terminals is not a good long-term plan - it makes the wire just behind the solder brittle, and more likely to snap when bent a few times. Ferrules crimped on the stripped ends is the correct way to terminate for screw terminals. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 DIN & XLR connections have been mentioned but how many connections can they cope with 5/6/7 max? Assuming you are controlling points, 4 points require 9 connections for solenoid motors, then you will need your track circuits.I soon use up 15 connections. I use D plugs because that is what I was brought up with & they have never given me a problem. They won't last forever though. The better quality ones are rated for a minimum of 100 connection cycles, but any type of connector has a limit The pins are also small so won't carry an unlimited amount of current. If your ecxpected current is going to be anywhere near the limit of the pin, then spread the load across more than 1 pin. The solder lug buckets take a bit of practise to solder neatly but, like an earlier comment, I find DIN plugs infinitely more fiddly. A tip I learned thehard way at a show many years ago is not to attach the cable to a board & just plug one end in. Sooner or later, somebody will move a board while inadvertently standing on a cable. Wire in a socket on each board & plug the cable in at both ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted April 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2016 Something not mentioned in the OP: is this wiring for DC or DCC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpman46 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Tinning wire to go into screw terminals is not a good long-term plan - it makes the wire just behind the solder brittle, and more likely to snap when bent a few times. Ferrules crimped on the stripped ends is the correct way to terminate for screw terminals. Couldn't agree more. Picture of wiring to a Tortoise motor below. No loose wires to short out else where and easy to insert in less than ideal lighting conditions under the baseboard. We also use D type connectors on our O gauge test track, 16 sections to put up and take down and have had no problems in the last 12 years. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejstubbs Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think I'm going to go with the pluggable terminal strips, and automotive multi-core cable between the strips on intermediate boards so as to keep it as tidy as possible. Something not mentioned in the OP: is this wiring for DC or DCC? It's DC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Doesn't matter, it's still lots and lots ans lots of electrons moving around It might if it was DCC and there was a 10 Amp booster involved Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted April 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2016 I was thinking of the way the wires to individual point motors and other accessories would need to be routed from a control panel - many more for DC than for DCC, meaning computer D connectors might be the way to go. If it had been power on a DCC bus, then it might have been a different story, I think, although now I think about it I'm not 100% sure of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted April 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2016 Fair point. But then the OP would have mentioned it, wouldn't he? Or correctly put the question in the DCC section, rather than the non DCC section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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