pmantrobus@hotmail.co.uk Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Does anyone know how to fix a walkabout controller. It shoots off to full power when the slider is about 3 quarters of the way to full power, and when you press the brake it doesn't slow down Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigo Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Send it to the manufacturer for repairs? Well, not really. They were made some 30 years ago and Hammant & Morgan were absorbed by Hornby who no longer make anything like it today. Does the controller operate normally up to the 3/4 position and then shoot off ? Or is there nothing until that point. What sort of motor does the loco have, the Walkabout is a feedback type of controller and does not suit all types. Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted June 23, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2016 If it got or gets hot at the non cord end, it has probably had it's chips. We had a couple go when we were on the exhibition circuit. A friend who worked at Plessy had a look at one of them and tried to find a replacement chip, but was unsuccessful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmantrobus@hotmail.co.uk Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 It's a feedback controller. It does it with most types of motors. If you move the slider up to halfway a diligent fine, when it get to 3/4 it bolts. To be honest I think it's a dry solder joint somewhere but not sure if it's a part of the controller that regulates the speed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigo Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 It's a feedback controller. It does it with most types of motors. If you move the slider up to halfway a diligent fine, when it get to 3/4 it bolts. To be honest I think it's a dry solder joint somewhere but not sure if it's a part of the controller that regulates the speed It may well be a dry joint or a crack in the carbon on the slider pot at the "off" end. The wiper on the pot presses down onto the carbon track and this load may be sufficient to maintain a connection but as the wiper moves away from the break it opens up. This would have the effect you describe. You can check this by putting the slider to full speed, then select position 2 on the brake switch (which disconnects the slider pot) and then see if the brake button works to slow the loco. If it got or gets hot at the non cord end, it has probably had it's chips. We had a couple go when we were on the exhibition circuit. A friend who worked at Plessy had a look at one of them and tried to find a replacement chip, but was unsuccessful. The chip is a LM324 quad op amp (14 pin DIL package) which should be readily available. Just looked on eBay, 10 for 99p including P&P from China, also available from Rapid Electronics. Brian.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Personally I would spray the sliders carbon track with some contact cleaner or carefull applied Isoprpanol Alcohol (IPA) then work the slider up and down several times. Once treated retry the controller. If it cures it then all its cost is the can of cleaner. If no better then more investigation and repairs are the needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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