Pegleg90 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Hello, Does anyone else have trouble un-doing the screws that hold the body to chassis by Bachmann? I've had it on 2 locos now (a 37 & a 66) where a screw has rounded when trying to be removed, any tips or techniques to removing the offending screw now? Ive thought of a dab of superglue while supporting the screw driver while the glue dries? Any better solutions or experience welcomed! Many thanks in advance, Ali Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_l_jones Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Agree they can be very tight.. What size screwdriver are you using ? Cradle the loco in a foam or polystyrene support and whilst turning push hard. Important the screwdriver doesn't turn without taking the screw... I wouldn't think glue is a good idea with the risk of locking the screw into the body.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrom Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Some of the screws are poorly formed and make it easy to mess up the head. I have an assortment of screw drivers to remove them. Sometimes it is a slot headed driver to start them, then a Philips or pozi-head to finish off. Sometimes I have resorted to slightly grind the point off the screwdriver to make it move. Perseverance is the key. Thankfully I managed to get some some screws sized 1.7 x 12 mm and 1.7 x 10 mm from China which fit better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 If it doesn't immediately move, slightly tighten, eighth of a turn at the most; then start to undo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 You may find it is the crosshead screwdriver, the makers use several standards and you must use one that fully enters the cross head, and it may with smaller sizes need a filed up one, custom made to fit properly. you can grind an ordinary flat head to a V point to fit as well, easier to do. I use the multi set from Poundland for small crossheads, they do several small sizes of head in the pack, and although hard, they can be filled with a needle file. The vital thing is as snug a fit as possible, no play at all, and they will easily shift without damage to the head or driver bit. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 We received two Patriot locos which had the body screws loose in the packaging! Some of the crank pins were also loose. On the other hand, the A2 Pearl Diver was perfectly assembled - but removing the rear tender screw (to install a decoder) which is located under the rear axle next to the coupler mounting block was a real pain... If it had been over-tightened I am not sure how I would have removed it. If the body screws are really tight I use the largest Phillips head screw driver that will fit - this reduces the chance of slipping - and the larger handle allows good torque. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegleg90 Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 Thanks all, I'll have go at what you say Martin. 34theletterbetweenB&D I think it has gone in both directions! The screw driver I use is a 0-2x75 cross point from expo tools as recommended by my local model shop when I had issue with my 66 (currently 37 giving me grief)! Also tried the next size up to no avail! Our workshop manager at work suggested a screw remover kit but don't think it goes small enough, will have a look over the weekend. One comment I've seen on the internet is a rubber band between the screw and the driver - hope I have a suitable small one - rubber band! Will have a go over the weekend and see how it goes! Cheers Ali Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
knitpick Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 For what it's worth. We ned to remember that Phillips and Pozidrive crosshead screws are subtlely different. The Phillips is a plain cross but with a flat end (i.e. NO POINT). THe Pozidrive is a crosshead with a pointed end. Pozidrive also has an extra mini crosshead at 45 degrees to the main crosshead. I also suspect that the Phillips crosshead is wider than the main Pozidrive crosshead. the net result of this is that if your use a Phillips driver in a Pozidrive screw or vice-versa there is significant risk of wrecking the screw head. One final thought, a double zero (0-2) driver sounds far too small for a Bachmann 00 gauge loco (the 75[mm] refers to the length of the screwdriver shank); I'd have expected size 1 or perhaps 0. I tend to start at size 1 Phillips, if its too big to fit then try size 0. If the fit feels a bit sloppy then try the alternate Pozidrive size 1. If still sloppy go up to size 2. Note also that most Bachmann screws seem to be the simple crosshead Phillips style rather than the 4 large / 4 small point "star" of Pozidrive. If you're still not sure what I'm on about; go down to your local DIY superstore and look at a box of No8 Pozidrive screws - you'll see the 8 pointed star shape in the screw head. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Phillips and Pozi scewdrivers also have a different angle to the point. The Phillips is sharper. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegleg90 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 VICTORY! Got the little [insert appropriate curse word here] out! Super gluing a screw driver failed - worth a try though. The screw remover worked a treat albeit very nerve racking when your there drilling into your model and trying to avoid the drill slipping and damaging the body or the bogies! Next find appropriate replacement screws - ebay! Thanks Ali Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted July 9, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2016 Phillips and Pozi scewdrivers also have a different angle to the point. The Phillips is sharper. Stewart There is also a Japanese type which isn't either. Maybe the Chinese use them as well? Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Ive only had this with few Bachmann 66s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 Well, I do agree that some times the screws are over tightened on Bachmann assemblies. I have a new V2 (Green Arrow) that ran terribly on my layout. It was the first Bachmann loco where this had occurred on the layout. So over the weekend I backed off the baseplate on the chassis about 1 turn on each screw. The loco now runs hooray, the tender though is still giving me some head aches as it seems to pivot around the centre axle bearings every 10th circuit or so. Still working on this for a solution. I have sanded back the 2 side frames to remove the ridges which improved the running, as well as bending down the draw bar slightly to only act on the tender draw pin, rather than rubbing on the top and bottom of the draw bar slot. All the other locos that have this tender seemed to be OK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coppercap Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 There is also a Japanese type which isn't either. Maybe the Chinese use them as well? Keith Yes, JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). Most older Japanese motorcycles had lots of these, and most owners chewed up the heads by using a Philips driver, or worse a Posidriv. The toolkit screwdriver worked fine on them, but they weren't really designed for regular workshop use. As a result the screws got a bad press when there wasn't really anything wrong with them. But using the wrong tool for anything causes frustration. Strangely JIS screwdrivers work perfectly on Philips screws. I use a small JIS driver on Bachmann screws, but the screws aren't really all that good though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 An additional tip, for overtightened screws, use a driver with a long stem, the reason:, lessens the risk of a slip which burrs the slots in the screwhead, as the long screwdriver lets you position the tip for the best interface between tip and screwhead. A senior fitter at my workplace handed this gem to me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_l_jones Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I've just taken the screws out of my new Rainbow 66.. The screw driver size is a PH00 best fit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.