16020 / 56020 or a Caley pug from a Hornby body

[Blandford1969]

Hi All,

 

I thought my latest attempts at an engine might be of use, if only in the why the heck did he do that avenue. As some of you will know I was seriously ill earlier this year, and, during my recovery visited a long time friend who sadly can't do modelling now due to his arthritis. He asked me if I could do a quick and easy job, as it just needed a chassis.

 

He wanted the Caley pub 16020 later 56020 that for some time was based at Burton. He even gave me a book with a photo of it. Having got home it became apparent a chassis was not all that was needed for this engine.

 

I found a photo in my collection of said engine

 

Not long after this photo, it got buffers as well as the dumb buffers, I needed to cut away the springs as the engine did not have, meaning the absence of the bottom of the boiler really showed. I quickly realised the easiest way was to cut out a new footplate, boiler bottom and cab rear.

 

You can see I have drilled out for the boiler fittings already.

 

Yesterday I cut out and soldered the cab rear on as well as using some brake rigging to bend, cut and fashion into beading and support for the rear handrail.

 

At the same time I, cut out the coal bunker sides for inside the cab and soldered on boiler bands onto the bottom part, I know they are over scale thickness, however they look fine to me.

 

Today's job was to then solder on the boiler bottoms, bunker sides and handrails.

 

Next is fettling up the bottom of the tanks to fit inside the plastic and bend the front handrails to fit. Then ends the easy stuff.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions as to if this fitting is available from anywhere or suggestions on how I might scratch build it?

 

Tomorrow evening will be using wire to start building the pipework between the tanks and the running plate and work out how to build myself a new sandbox having cut the old one off while getting the body ready.

 

Finally for now is it my imagination or is the firebox on the Horny model too high. My only rear photos

seem to suggest the firebox is much smaller, not that I plan on hacking that off.

 

More to follow, hope its of interest. I'm not looking forward to the chassis especially the slidebars and crossheads so may ask for help and suggestions.

 

All the photos are from my own negatives (taken by others as its before my time, lol)

 

Duncan

Edited July 24, 2016 by Blandford1969

[Horsetan]

The whole Hornby model is distorted in a number of different ways - the most obvious is that it's a whole two scale feet too long. Yes, the firebox and backhead is too big.

[Blandford1969]

The whole Hornby model is distorted in a number of different ways - the most obvious is that it's a whole two scale feet too long. Yes, the firebox and backhead is too big.

Mmm, Makes me wonder about a quick hack as it really lets doing the engine down. Do you know the dimensions it should be?

[Horsetan]

Mmm, Makes me wonder about a quick hack as it really lets doing the engine down. Do you know the dimensions it should be?

Remove 4mm either side of the dome. This corrects the saddle tank. Somebody on another forum did a fairly comprehensive rebuild - let me find the link.

 

Here it is .

 

I've been doing something similar to turn it into the last surviving NBR "G"/ LNER Y9

Edited July 24, 2016 by Horsetan

[Blandford1969]

Remove 4mm either side of the dome. This corrects the saddle tank. Somebody on another forum did a fairly comprehensive rebuild - let me find the link.

 

Here it is .

 

I've been doing something similar to turn it into the last surviving NBR "G"/ LNER Y9

Thanks for the link, which did give some ideas. I have decided not to go for the shortening as I am not that brave.

 

However I decided the firebox had to be put right, so knife and hacksaw have resulted in it going

 

However, having done that I am wondering about how I can easily put right the cab front as even with a smooth down it is still going to look odd. Would it be better to cut out the front and replace with a brass one onto which the firebox and firebox front can be soldered? , however if that gets done is it then better just to  replace the whole cab in brass?

 

Not made up my mind on that yet.

[Horsetan]

Thanks for the link, which did give some ideas. I have decided not to go for the shortening as I am not that brave.

That's a pity. A razor saw would have given you a straight cut.

 

However I decided the firebox had to be put right, so knife and hacksaw have resulted in it going

cr2.JPGcr3.JPG

 

However, having done that I am wondering about how I can easily put right the cab front as even with a smooth down it is still going to look odd. Would it be better to cut out the front and replace with a brass one onto which the firebox and firebox front can be soldered? , however if that gets done is it then better just to  replace the whole cab in brass?

I've sort of solved that in the Y9, which has a totally different cab front!

[Blandford1969]

I've been working on a pattern for a new cab as the old one is wrong and too short in the roof.

 

One question I have got is can anyone tell me the size of the cab spectacles, is the Hornby size about right ?

[Blandford1969]

I've cut out new cab and bunker sides which were cut out using the piercing saw and files. It really is satisfying as bits start to come out of sheet metal. The question was on the cab front, and the size and location of the cab windows as I thought those on the Hornby engine looked wrong and far too small. Well lots of looking (my wife says I am suborn enough to keep looking till something came up) produced a photo of the Slaters pug which I managed to reduce to size, roughly as shown below

 

That's now been marked out as below. I know that the right hand window looks odd as I used the wrong size to draw (I must remember not to use that size though when I fret it out.

 

Next job cut it out and then make myself some spectacle plates and start to put together.

 

I will add the beading in rather than having it separate as it is currently, and looks a bit silly. I have started thinking about the slide bars and cross heads and might have some ideas, but time will tell.

 

The one thing I hope is that the thread is interesting and anyone else who wants to follow, maybe avoids some of my pitfalls.

Edited August 1, 2016 by Blandford1969

[Blandford1969]

Sorry for the delay in any further updates, work and other matters have got in the way.

 

I have finally got a replacement cab cut out from brass. I have just to make a firebox which will go through to the end of the tanks and to work out what the backhead looked like (any ideas?) I know there was 1 gauge glass and the steam valves for the injectors are above the backhead (but where were the water valves) The regulator I understand was a two handled regulator in the middle. But was there anything else on the backhead?

 

 

The cab sides have the bunker front and side which are still to be bent round. I have got the spectacle plates to fit and then the pressure gauge to make and fit on the cab front.  There is a bit of sorting out with the cab front and the curve of the roofline to be correct. I will also need to cut out a new roof.

 

Hopefully I will have the cab built this week.

[Peppercorn]

Hello, Blandford: have you made further progress on this?

CliffH