DCC Questions for a Model Railway Novice

[Sir TophamHatt]

Hi
 
I am a complete novice of model railways.  My experience of playing with some old coaching stock on a poorly cobbled together bit of track from an ex-model railway.
 
I currently own:

• Virgin Voyager (5-car)
• Class 66 or 67
• Class 153
• Class 170
• I have two German trains like this (but without the pantograph) and like this - they're pretty old though.
• I have a few Thomas the Tank Engine locos (Emily, Stepney, Toby - I plan to buy the Bachmann Oliver when it's released, as well as a number of others).

I also have some colour light signals, a few odd bits of scenary.
 
I plan to buy a DCC ready Swallow HST when the pennies will allow.
 
 
Tooling
I have no knowledge of soldering, nor do I have the tools (as yet).  I also don't have any scenery building tools.
 
 
DCC
I'm pretty PC savvy and will probably understand DCC when I get into it (I understand the principle).  Not really interested in sound at the moment.
 
To make thinsg easier, I don't plan to mix, so when the first few have been converted to DCC, then I'll not run any analog trains.
 
And yes, I'll pay the extra and have the lights on the Voyager and Turbostar done at the same time   I'll most likely pay to have them converted in the beginning and then see later on.
 
 
Questions

• It's the age old question of whether I can use my non-DCC trains with DCC equipment?  I'm sure it's a yes.
• I was looking at purchasing the EZ Command Dynamis Ultima DCC system - I'm thinking if I buy a fairly expensive one now, it'll last well into the future.  Would you say that's a good way to go?
• Can I send trains away to have the DCC fitted / lights fitted?  I know it'll be hugely expensive but until I'm happy, I don't fancy pulling wires out here and there.
• Any other advice?

Thanks

[Lancs_fus]

Hello anotheruser

Suggest you find your local model railway shop, proper model shop type of thing, where you can have a play and ask some questions.

Cheers,

Paul

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

There's a good choice in DCC systems. Aim to sample a few before plunking down any cash. They all do much the same thing if you buy a 'full system' but every one has its own approach to the user interface; you may well find that some fit your hands / tastes better than others. This one is so large and heavy it really has to sit on a shelf, that one has every single button, lever and knob they could fit on it, yonder is one so small you can operate it single handed and have your bevy in the free hand. (Guess which I prefer?)

[Ron Ron Ron]

....Questions

 

It's the age old question of whether I can use my non-DCC trains with DCC equipment?  I'm sure it's a yes.

What do you mean by "non-DCC trains"?

a. If you mean trains without decoders fitted, then it's no.  (....there is a possible way, but we shouldn't go there!)

b. If you mean trains with DCC sockets, but no decoders fitted (known as "DCC Ready"), then it's fairly easy to plug in a decoder (then it becomes "DCC fitted") and run them on DCC.

c. If you mean trains that don't have DCC sockets (older models), then either decoders can be hardwired into them, or a socket can be installed ready to accept a decoder.

 

Don't put a train/loco on a DCC powered layout without a decoder being properly fitted.

It causes smoke and a bad smell.

 

I was looking at purchasing the EZ Command Dynamis Ultima DCC system - I'm thinking if I buy a fairly expensive one now, it'll last well into the future.  Would you say that's a good way to go?

 

That system will do most things, but its earlier version has a history of problems with the Infra Red signal reliability and of reliability of the joystick.

If you want future proofing, there are other options. Do a bit of research and reading about various systems and if possible, try to get to a good DCC specialist who will have several systems available to try.

 

 

Can I send trains away to have the DCC fitted / lights fitted?  I know it'll be hugely expensive but until I'm happy, I don't fancy pulling wires out here and there.

It might be better to physically hand them over to a trusted and reliable person/shop, rather than run the risk of postage and high costs involved.

For most DCC installations, it's very simple to do it yourself.

 

 

Any other advice?

Do a bit of reading on the subject. It isn't difficult or complex at all.

 

Don't try to do too much all at once.

One step at a time and all that.....

DCC can be as simple, or as complicated as you want it to be.

 

DCC has been around for a long time and in many ways is a bit "old hat".

Certainly a lot of the popular DCC systems available are "old hat" 1980's & early 90's type technology.

However, the system has seen quite a lot of development and there are a few very good, modern DCC systems out there.

 

Familiarise yourself with the various DCC manufacturers, for systems, decoders and accessories.

The DCC world, as in many areas of railway modelling, goes way beyond Hornby and Bachmann.

The best kit usually comes from DCC specialist companies.

 

Don't skimp on decoders by buying the cheapest available.

Pay a little bit more and stick to reputable and trusted brands.

 

Are you in the UK?

If so, don't think you are restricted to buying just from local or other UK retailers.

Prices are often very much cheaper on the continental mainland and mail order and online shopping is pretty much the same, whether buying from the UK or, for example, from Germany.

 

 

 

.

[Sir TophamHatt]

Thanks

 

By non-DCC trains, I mean older trains that don't have a socket, no chip, no nothing.  I'll probably have some of it set up and do some research at the Warley show in November - yeah, UK based

 

Not sure there is a local model club or shop near where I live particularly, but I'll find out - not really done much research into it.  It's only come up now in life because I'm moving hosue to a place that has a bit of space for one.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

'Older trains', so long as they are 12V DC type, are straightforward in principle. DCC is specified for supplying a regulated nominal 12V max DC supply from the decoder to the motor. So with a DCC decoder installed any 12V DC model then operates on DCC. Caveats: some designs are much easier to fit with DCC than others; some older motor designs are so poor that it is questionable fitting a DCC decoder as the end result will still not run that well, or it will run just as noisily as it did previously on DC (or both!).

 

What is required to fit the decoder is some ability at small work, and soldering.

[BR60103]

Fitting to "older" trains depends a lot on the trains. If there are two wires running to the motor from the wheels, they can be cut and a decoder wired in the gap.

If the chassis forms part of the wiring, the job becomes difficult, sometimes impossible without butchery (old Hornby Dublo).