Fret saws? Scroll saws?

[JeffP]

Are fret saws any use to a kitbuilder?

 

http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/saws/cat830864?cm_sp=managedredirect-_-powertools-_-scrollsaws

 

I have occasionally used a piercing saw, but not always with the success I'd like.

I recently saw one of these being used to make wooden models out of plywood, and the owner seemed to think that blades were available that would also cut thin brass sheet, whitemetal, even mazak?

 

What do our experts think?

[Vecchio]

The saw will cut also metal - but do not expect miracles. As scroll saws have thin blades the cut may not be very precise - means you will run right or left from the line you are trying to follow. Zinc aluminium alloys Mazak, Zamak or however you will call them may be rock hard and in this case you will not have a lot of fun.

If you want to cut sheet metal you need to use a wooden board (for instance ply) below or the saw will bend the metal. And in all cases do not push too hard - the sawblade should cut itself free.

The best use for such a saw is to use it on wood.

Vecchio, owner of a pretty old scroll saw. Probably they have improved but I do not think so. I use a circular saw much more frequent then the scroll saw.

[yelrow]

I have the scheppach one, and use it for cutting ply/ hardboard.  I have never tried metal, but was advised that blades can be purchased so to do. Actually, i have 3 scroll saws/ motorised fretsaws, as nere in france, they are always for sale at Car Boots. Until recently, i had a Hobbies Treadle one, that gave years of service. Will they do model making, yes. john

[Wellyboots]

As an example here's a video showing 2 sheets of 3/16" brass being cut with a scroll saw;

 

https://youtu.be/B8Y146v8HxE?t=4m33s

 

So a saw of this type appears to be able to cope with fairly thick material, althought there seems to be a lot of finishing needed after the cut. It certainly seem useful when making a long 3/8" cut but would it be much better than a piercing saw on the thinner stock we would normally use?

[Vecchio]

Interesting video. I am 100% sure my saw wouldn't deal with 10mm or more of solid brass. Of course with such a thickness you do not need to put a piece of ply under the metal - what I had in mind are thicknesses of 1mm and less....

[Nearholmer]

If anyone wants shot of an old-fashioned foot-treadle fretsaw, please PM me, because, however many junk sales I attend, I still can't find one.

 

Kevin

 

(Yelrow ....... don't tell me yours went to the dechetterie!)

[bertiedog]

Don't forget the best way to saw fine metal accurately was solved by clock makers long before the power fretsaw, with a hand fret saw, usually the Swiss patten, which has dozens of fine blade grades and types made for it. The cutting bench of choice is the Jewellers V block, just a plank with a V notch sawn in the end to allow the work to rest well on the bench. The key to all metal fretwork is that the sheet metal must be firmly against a supporting surface like the V notch. Any movement with the blade will snap the fragile blades.

 

The same blades with fit most power fret saws if they have speed control and a soft start, to prevent sudden strain breaking them.

A type no longer made, but are around second hand, is the Vibrosaw, which used a solenoid in the base to vibrate the saws at mains frequency. The short stroke made the fine saws safe with metal, which longer strokes are not. The top surface around the blade could be fitted with a wooden suface with a notch or groove for the blade.

 

The treadle type give a soft start, and suit metal more than power. All types work with wood or plastics. Always try to buy Swiss made blades or equivalent quality, the Chinese do some decent brands nowadays, as the Jewellery trade in Hong Kong uses them widly.

[Nearholmer]

Bertiedog

 

Where does the boundary between the fretsaw and the piercing saw lay in all this?

 

I ask, because I have both, and made myself a vee-thingy by sawing-up a spare bit of hardwood flooring, and I've always thought that the fine, clockmakers' or jewellers', saw was a called a piercing saw.

 

And, your point about soft-start, and the general question of controllability, is why I'm after a treadle machine. I find keeping a hand fretsaw blade vertical is beyond me, especially on a saw with a wide "threat", and that once it goes off-vertical it is then impossible to follow a line properly, but don't like fierce machine ones.

 

Kevin

[bertiedog]

There's really no line between the types, fret, piercing or coping, just the size of teeth and backing. The Swiss type handle takes them all, including broken blades!

 

 

Proops on Ebay do a decent cheap one (spoorp name)

[Nearholmer]

My small one looks just like that, and was 50p in a Scouts old tool sale about thirty years ago!

 

K

[Guy Rixon]

Peter Denny used to use a powered fret-saw for cutting metal. He would fix the metal, presumably with glue, to a sacrificial sheet of hardboard to stiffen it.

[laurenceb]

Was just about to say if a treadle fret-saw was good enough for the good reverend ........