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ESU 50709 Digital Interior Lighting


bigal10
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50708 Warm White, or 50709 Yellow.

 

Just wondering what other folks' thoughts are on these?

 

Has anyone used them, are they successful? 

 

I'm adept at CV tweaking, and have downloaded the 2-page instruction sheet, and it looks like a useful add-on for non-lit coaches,

And (say) older DMUs. (1970's Hornby 142 Pacer in GMPTE orange !)

 

Assume one also needs 50707 Wheel Pickups and possibly 50706 Power pack.

 

- Indeed I think I'd like to try a pack of Wheel Pickups for improving the odd 4-axle Loco with dodgy contacts!

 

I would be grateful for any feedback, good or not-so-good!

 

Regards,

 

Alan

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I've used the yellow ones in a small rake of Bachmann Porthole coaches which was particularly easy to do as these coaches come ready-fitted with pickups on the bogies. I connected the pickups on both bogies in each coach together and then to the input side of the lighting units with thin wire to get the best possible pick-up

 

The units come with two red LED rear lights attached and although these are really more suitable for Continental stock, I guess with a little ingenuity it would be possible to adapt them for UK stock. I removed these and fitted Express Models "oil lamps" in their place. As in this case you are replacing one LED with another, there is no concern over resistors.

 

The results are very pleasing (to my eyes) and there have not been any signs of flickering. I programmed all the units with the same address as I keep these coaches as a permanently-coupled rake.

 

Regarding colour, I think the white ones would look best in more modern stock. As you can dim them via a tiny push button switch, the brightness should be adaptable to meet any particular taste.

 

John

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  • 10 months later...

Hi Shroomy,

 

I have had one for a while now, but not actually installed as yet!

 

Had a good play about on the workbench and "it does exactly what it says on the tin"

 

I run on an ESU ECoS 50200, and you have to put a resistor across a couple of contacts on the lighting strip, as per the instruction sheet/manual, but it has a very varied and interesting set of settings via CV's

 

You can do things like 'failing bulbs' or neon tube flickering starts.

 

Regards,

 

Alan.

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Hi Shroomy,

 

I have had one for a while now, but not actually installed as yet!

 

Had a good play about on the workbench and "it does exactly what it says on the tin"

 

I run on an ESU ECoS 50200, and you have to put a resistor across a couple of contacts on the lighting strip, as per the instruction sheet/manual, but it has a very varied and interesting set of settings via CV's

 

You can do things like 'failing bulbs' or neon tube flickering starts.

 

Regards,

 

Alan.

Just fitted one today but without a cap or resistance for cv reading so going to fit tomorrow what an ingenious bit of kit

Thank you for your reply

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Hi Shroomy,

 

I have had one for a while now, but not actually installed as yet!

 

Had a good play about on the workbench and "it does exactly what it says on the tin"

 

I run on an ESU ECoS 50200, and you have to put a resistor across a couple of contacts on the lighting strip, as per the instruction sheet/manual, but it has a very varied and interesting set of settings via CV's

 

You can do things like 'failing bulbs' or neon tube flickering starts.

 

Regards,

 

Alan.

 

 

Absolutely. They are excellent units. You only need to put the load resistor on if you want to read back the CVs.

 

John

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Absolutely. They are excellent units. You only need to put the load resistor on if you want to read back the CVs.

 

John

Being thick here for a moment

What exactly would you attached as a load resistor ?

Another question what if any difference would it make if you connected a 2200uf 35v capacitor one side also a 2.2f 5.5v battery back up capacitor to the power pack side together

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Being thick here for a moment

What exactly would you attached as a load resistor ?

Another question what if any difference would it make if you connected a 2200uf 35v capacitor one side also a 2.2f 5.5v battery back up capacitor to the power pack side together

 

 

I used a 100Ω resistor and unsoldered one end after programming. I understand that if the resistor is left in place it may get very warm.

 

It is not absolutely necessary to be able to read back the CVs as there are relatively few to be set and if things go wrong it is easy to reset the decoder to default and start over.

 

You can write values into one coach on the Programming Track making notes as you go and then set the CVs the same for other coaches if you want them all to have the same effect, or possibly Program on the Main if you prefer to keep coaches in a fixed rake and have the same lighting effect and brightness in all. One address will then switch on all the coaches at the same time, but for this you will normally have to set all the decoder addresses before you PoM the whole rake. 

 

I don't know the answer to your question the other connections you asked about . . . I'm sure somebody will!

 

John

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Well I bit the bullet on this to find out about capacitors so if it helps anyone else

I soldered a 1000uf 35v capacitor to the capacitor side and

A 0.22f 5.5v battery backup capacitor to the power pack side and it works extremely well

You can pick the coach up of the rails turn it over and put it back down on the rails and the lights still work

I did put two of these light units in a 2Hal unit look very effective

  • Informative/Useful 1
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  • 1 month later...

Having used these a few time now found them really good

But when I go to use the cut of elsewhere I cannot get them to light in anyway shape or form

Anybody had any luck getting the cutoff to work

 

Cut off? Can you explain what you mean, please?

 

John

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Cut off? Can you explain what you mean, please?

John

Depending on which coach you fit them to they are different lengths so you cut them to length which leaves 1 or 2 LEDs on the strip

On the instructions it says you can use these elsewhere

 

Link to manual

About cutting boards to length 1st page on left column

http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/interiour-lighting-sets/?no_cache=1&tx_esudownloads_pi1%5BdownloadItem%5D=60d98d04cdb73b4004a0e9a534df3b58

Edited by Shroomy
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Depending on which coach you fit them to they are different lengths so you cut them to length which leaves 1 or 2 LEDs on the strip

On the instructions it says you can use these elsewhere

Link to manual

About cutting boards to length 1st page on left column =60d98d04cdb73b4004a0e9a534df3b58]http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/interiour-lighting-sets/?no_cache=1&tx_esudownloads_pi1[downloadItem]=60d98d04cdb73b4004a0e9a534df3b58

Ah, now I understand . . . I think the offcut may be just the LEDs, so you probably would need resistors in the circuit.

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I have fitted one of these to a BEMO RhB Steurwagen and used the ability to add an extra LED to do the headlights in this "cab-car". I have a ESU programmer and have set it up as "fluorescent" with a "dodgy" strip in the parcels section. Quite interesting watching the strip lights flicker on. However for most of my coaches I just rectify the track voltage from DCC and use a buck converter and SMD strips as this casts a fraction of the price of the ESU unit (but isn't as flexible or controllable). 

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  • 2 months later...

Can anyone advise the best (safest) way to dismantle the porthole coaches to install the ESU lighting strips please??

 

 

You need to do the usual trick with four thin bits of plastic. Insert them between the chassis and the body side and with a bit of gentle persuasion, the body shell will slide upwards leaving the chassis and the seating exposed. These coaches already have power collectors on the bogies. I created a "bus" between the two bogies to ensure the best possible power pick-up.

 

John

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You need to do the usual trick with four thin bits of plastic. Insert them between the chassis and the body side and with a bit of gentle persuasion, the body shell will slide upwards leaving the chassis and the seating exposed. These coaches already have power collectors on the bogies. I created a "bus" between the two bogies to ensure the best possible power pick-up.

 

John

 

many Thanks - will give it a whirl.

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  • 7 months later...

Hi all,

 

I discovered these a few days ago after seeing one of the new Bachmann DBSO's with DCC lights, but got a bit scared by the price.

 

I'm currently fitting a digital one in a Bachmann NSE Mk2 Brake, complete with operating tail lamp.  Had to chop off one LED to get it to fit and juggle the board to make sure the LED's don't foul the bulkheads.  I used DCC concepts axle pick up springs on all 4 wheels and might fit an additional stay alive capacitor while I have it apart.

 

What did surprise me was the fact that all the lighting effects that I had programmed on DCC (strobe and fluorescent start effects) also remained working when I tried the coach on DC.

 

All in all, very impressed and not too bad a price for the functionality that you get.

 

Rich

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Depending on which coach you fit them to they are different lengths so you cut them to length which leaves 1 or 2 LEDs on the strip

On the instructions it says you can use these elsewhere

 

Link to manual

About cutting boards to length 1st page on left column

http://www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/interiour-lighting-sets/?no_cache=1&tx_esudownloads_pi1%5BdownloadItem%5D=60d98d04cdb73b4004a0e9a534df3b58

 

I've recently been fiddling with a couple of these 50708 strips.  Each LED has it's own resistor, to get any cut pieces to work, if it's a 2 LED piece, each LED needs a power feed - you can link one to the other via wires, but the feeds must be made to the pair of blank solder pads - (same size as the working LED's are fitted to) these are added/designed for extra LED's to be fitted ex factory if required.

I'm experimenting with making the strip longer, by adding a cut piece from another strip, to suit longer MK3 coaches.  Unfortunately, one of my strips has failed, it's getting replaced FOC. The strange thing is, using an 100ohm resistor across the Aux 1 output tabs, you can still read the address and CV's etc via the prog track, no error 2 -  and all the LED's bar one still work when powered via a battrey/resistor - but the decoder itself appears to have failed. An 8 into CV8 re-set  - made no difference.

Once I get a replacement, I'll add some photos.............

post-2215-0-71903000-1545499650_thumb.jpg

post-2215-0-71984400-1545499667_thumb.jpg

Edited by tractor_37260
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  • 2 weeks later...

Recently completed fitting interior lighting to my 1st MK3A coach using an extended ESU DCC 50708 lighting strip.  Very pleased with the result, the fluorescent flickering effect on switch on is impressive, you can either switch on the complete coach or individual groups of LED's . After testing, decided an extra SA cap was not required, the existing on-board buffer cap proving sufficient.  

I cut and shut the light strip to make it longer, by adding a cutting from another strip, fitted in reverse to get a LED in the vestibule area at one end. I also piggy - backed a further single LED to fill in a lighting gap.  

The rear toilet walls also had to be reduced in height, to allow the light to get in.

 

post-2215-0-60676600-1546267669_thumb.jpg

post-2215-0-06915700-1546267682_thumb.jpg

post-2215-0-98400200-1546267693_thumb.jpg

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post-2215-0-06958000-1546285782_thumb.jpg

post-2215-0-06055200-1546285795_thumb.jpg

Edited by tractor_37260
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been looking to install some led lights in a number of carriages and my attempts to date have not been entirely satisfactory.

 

Art's device is an elegant solution. And the instructions are very helpful for a novice such as I. Well done, Art

 

Cheers

Edited by Guest
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I bought a 12v motor for this very purpose out of an old farish dmu and attached crocodile clips for when i use decoders that are designed for motor control when programming, something to do with the back emf setting, the decoder prefers to see a motor over a resistor. You have to be so careful with these decoders, doesnt take much to tip them over the edge and destroy their power circuitry.

Edited by Graham Radish
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Recently completed fitting interior lighting to my 1st MK3A coach using an extended ESU DCC 50708 lighting strip.  Very pleased with the result, the fluorescent flickering effect on switch on is impressive, you can either switch on the complete coach or individual groups of LED's . After testing, decided an extra SA cap was not required, the existing on-board buffer cap proving sufficient.  

I cut and shut the light strip to make it longer, by adding a cutting from another strip, fitted in reverse to get a LED in the vestibule area at one end. I also piggy - backed a further single LED to fill in a lighting gap.  

The rear toilet walls also had to be reduced in height, to allow the light to get in.

 You've done the right thing by fitting the pickups to the sides of the wheels rather than the tops, that way they don't pickup grime from the track any where near as much. Gotta ask, where do you get your phosphur bronze pickups from?

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You've done the right thing by fitting the pickups to the sides of the wheels rather than the tops, that way they don't pickup grime from the track any where near as much. Gotta ask, where do you get your phosphur bronze pickups from?

The pick-ups are built into the bogies as supplied. The pin point axles run in cup shaped recesses in the strips.These coaches were originally designed to have interior lighting, but not fitted, possibly due to costs. The bogies and seated interior also come with holes for the wiring and mounting points for lighting boards that were omitted.

HTH

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