RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted December 10, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 10, 2020 14 minutes ago, St Enodoc said: H A Blunt & Sons was , of course, my local model shop when I was growing up in Mill Hill. Peter and Alan (the "Sons") were running it by then and two nicer gentlemen you could not have wished to meet. None of the grandchildren wanted to take the business on. (I was at university with one of them who went into accountancy.) 2 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted December 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2020 (edited) Please, sir, can I show a deliberately old fashioned tool, ere you revert to trains. This featured in the song “dashing away with the smoothing iron” before they invented electrickery. Either grandad or maybe dad removed the handle, since when it’s been used as a small anvil. I find it’s good for holding behind a sheet of unsupported ply when banging in nails. As you can see, it’s having fair wear and tear. Edited December 11, 2020 by Northroader 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 On 02/12/2020 at 23:21, Nearholmer said: The flippant answer to that has to be: electric. Both steam, of the sort you are pursuing, and clockwork, are IMO for people who have fallen in love with them for what they are, and they build-up skills in fettling and fixing over time. I'm not aware of anyone these days operating a proper railway service, in the way that they did in olden tymes, with either - both seem to run round simple circuits for the sheer fun of it nowadays (I hope to be corrected on this). Which of the two moves you most? The live steam 16mm layout at Peterborough last year certainly had stations, with trains stopping at them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Had a half-day off from domestic tasks and paying work this morning, and managed both a short spell of shunting (as below) and the first decent bike ride for a fortnight (which was muddy). And (small, very distant fanfare please), the paint for the old clockers finally arrived, so there is hope that I can return to them later in the week. Also, a PS on the hand drill saga: having secured the NOS drill, I unearthed the original one after a bit of a hunt, and decided to make one last attempt to get the chuck working again before binning it. Well, miracles do happen. I succeeded! So now I have a perfectly working 45yo drill, the rubbish one I bought to replace it, and the BNIB 45yo drill I bought to replace that. I still can't work out what was actually wrong with the chuck, which was utterly stuck solid until I dismantled and reassembled it. Edited December 15, 2020 by Nearholmer 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) A drill Chuck comprises an assembly of sliding inclined planes, regulated by a rotating collar on a usually, quite fine thread and constructed so that the whole assembly can only be subjected to quite small amounts of force. It is a special case of the principle of fitting sprockets onto tapered shafts, by which the whole surface acts as a friction clamp, but by dislodging the sprocket slightly the grip is completely lost. I should think that there was some minor corrosion and/or misalignment causing a jam, which was cleared by dismantling leaving no visible sign. I assume you aren't talking about the spring-loaded ball type Chuck, given the type of tool? Edited December 16, 2020 by rockershovel 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Keyed, rather than keyless, but otherwise much as shown. It didn’t start as corrosion to the best of my knowledge, because it originally actually jammed solid while I was using it. My best diagnosis is that I somehow wound it too far open. Of course, over c5 years on the naughty step in the unheated shed since then it has acquired some minor surface corrosion. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 57 minutes ago, Nearholmer said: Keyed, rather than keyless, but otherwise much as shown. It didn’t start as corrosion to the best of my knowledge, because it originally actually jammed solid while I was using it. My best diagnosis is that I somehow wound it too far open. Of course, over c5 years on the naughty step in the unheated shed since then it has acquired some minor surface corrosion. Could be over-winding, that would have the same effect as using a second nut as a locknut on a threaded bar. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldfish Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 4 hours ago, Nearholmer said: Keyed, rather than keyless, but otherwise much as shown. It didn’t start as corrosion to the best of my knowledge, because it originally actually jammed solid while I was using it. My best diagnosis is that I somehow wound it too far open. Of course, over c5 years on the naughty step in the unheated shed since then it has acquired some minor surface corrosion. Tightened the chick closed in hot weather, and then leaving it to cold soak in the shed would cause the chuck to contract and tighten further. Bringing it into the warmth of the house would cause the chuck to expand and loosen? A variation on putting a coil-bound clockwork motor in the oven or a pan of hot water? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 9 minutes ago, goldfish said: Tightened the chick closed in hot weather, Except that it jammed-solid in the wide-open, not the closed, position. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldfish Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Nearholmer said: Except that it jammed-solid in the wide-open, not the closed, position. The usual solution to that was a sharp blow on the open end of the chuck with a soft faced hammer. Or, if fitted to a pillar drill, bringing the chuck down firmly against the vice of work-piece. Taking the chuck off the threaded spindle and banging the closed end on the bench also works. These chucks survive a surprising amount of misuse. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Yep, I tried all that! None of it worked, except dismantling. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) Ah, but did you sacrifice the goldfish at the crossroads, at a quarter past ten? didn’t think so, well, now you know... Edited December 16, 2020 by Simond 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 (edited) I’ve been messing about with paint, attempting to touch-up the worst of the damage on the GWR 4-4-4T and King George The Fifth. Mark is right that the Precision Black is a good match for Bing, but quite a bit of experiment was needed with the green for the GWR one, which is nothing like any colour the GWR painted engines with. I’m trying not to cover any existing paint, so it’s fiddly, and the result is still what it is, a tatty old loco, but I’ve dealt with the great patches of soldering damage committed by a previous owner, and the usual key-hole problems. I will probably leave it at that, and try to find some transfers to fill-in the worst of the missing bits. BTW, does anyone else find that precision paint dries too quickly? For oil enamel it behaves more like acrylic. Edited December 17, 2020 by Nearholmer 2 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Keith Addenbrooke Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2020 56 minutes ago, Nearholmer said: I’ve been messing about with paint, attempting to touch-up the worst of the damage on the GWR 4-4-4T and King George The Fifth. Mark is right that the Precision Black is a good match for Bing, but quite a bit of experiment was needed with the green for the GWR one, which is nothing like any colour the GWR painted engines with. I’m trying not to cover any existing paint, so it’s fiddly, and the result is still what it is, a tatty old loco, but I’ve dealt with the great patches of soldering damage committed by a previous owner, and the usual key-hole problems. I will probably leave it at that, and try to find some transfers to fill-in the worst of the missing bits. BTW, does anyone else find that precision paint dries too quickly? For oil enamel it behaves more like acrylic. Forgive me if this has already been mentioned, but I only just noticed that GWR 2243 on the big railway would have been a 4-4-2 tank engine (the class which was effectively a variant of the original County Class 4-4-0 Tender engines). In other words, not far out at all. (I’m slightly colour blind, so not qualified to comment on paint comparison questions - it all looks OK to me). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2020 I think Precision Paints and oil base parted company some time ago. If you’re enjoying using the black, mix a bit of yellow into it, and you may find the green you’re after that way. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 (edited) Yes, the horrible No.2 Special Tank had a County Tank number as well I think. It had the right number of wheels in the right order for a County Tank too, but there the resemblance ended. I suppose a very rich, brave and skilled person could make a good Hornby County Tank using the County 4-4-0 as a basis. The green I got to actually matches very closely. It’s GWR (28-45) loco green, with a dob of carriage brown, plus a dash of a deep buff that I happened to have. Getting the amount of brown and buff right was the arty bit - it needed a surprising amount of each. Edited December 17, 2020 by Nearholmer 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 17, 2020 The country tank had a taper boiler, belpaire firebox, ponhy truck at the rear, outside cyclinders so pretty good match then Don 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 To the boy of 1928 for whom that loco was first bought, it was almost certainly a glorious thing, and as green. gleaming and dashing, and as much a County Tank, as he wanted it to be. This is a toy, from the age when toy trains were for boys with imaginations, not for detail-obsessed "sad old blokes" (to quote James may describing himself). 4 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2020 (edited) It has more the look of a Barry Railway 'Sharpie' tank engine than anything else, but I do agree that with a little imagination it could be anything a child wanted it to be. Edited December 17, 2020 by Annie can't spell for toffee 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Keith Addenbrooke Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Nearholmer said: To the boy of 1928 for whom that loco was first bought, it was almost certainly a glorious thing, and as green. gleaming and dashing, and as much a County Tank, as he wanted it to be. This is a toy, from the age when toy trains were for boys with imaginations, not for detail-obsessed "sad old blokes" (to quote James may describing himself). It was also contemporary - if said child had happened to see ‘the real’ 2243 then, “Wow! That’s my train...” 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianusa Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 Always had a soft spot for these engines as it was my first real Hornby after an MO set. Looking back, it was probably from a Christmas present with the usual goods train set. Didn't last that long as it was traded in on a Dublo SNG set which was presented on another Christmas morning before the war. This too was sold on, this time for a Hercules bike after the war ended. Brian. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 One of the few advantages of being a grown-up: I now have a train-set and a bike! 8 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted December 17, 2020 Author Share Posted December 17, 2020 I should have shown you this before: the rather excellent homemade wooden box that the GWR loco came in. Way back in the 1930s, someone took a lot of care of this loco. And, here’s its brother from the LMS. I like this one because it’s totally untouched, no repairs, no paint touch-ups, nothing, and it goes like an engine possessed! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted December 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2020 7 minutes ago, Nearholmer said: And, here’s its brother from the LMS. From this angle it definitely has something of the Precursor Tank about it - especially the shape of the cab spectacles - see here. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 17, 2020 Share Posted December 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Nearholmer said: One of the few advantages of being a grown-up: I now have a train-set and a bike! I suspect at 249 kg, 1250cc and 136 bhp, we’re not talking about the same kind of bike... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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