Deleted Thread!

[RossE]

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[bertiedog]

Can you reiterate the problem as you seem to be saying that pressing on the frog (crossing) is somehow connected with the blades at the other end of the point. The frog is totally independent of the blades, unless you are very over enthusiastic and soldered the joints solid.

 

For normal uses the springs are perfect for the job, but are removed entirely on some slow motion drives.

 

But normally the spring should not need a more powerful push. Are you sure the points are laid on a level underlay, and only very lightly held on to the trackbed, by the ballast.

 

Make sure the blades are not glued accidentally to the ballast, or the tie bar is being stopped having a free light movement. Peco points are designed to be laid carefully, no big nails or screws, all pre drilled holes and a general light touch to the whole installation.

 

Also make sure all paint is kept away from the blades and the tie bar moving parts, you can paint them but with extreme care.

 

Stephen

[RossE]

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[richard.h]

Not sure that I understand your problem but if you are using Electrofrogs straight out of the packet i.e. you haven't modified them into live switchable frogs then the power to them comes only from the switchblade.

 

In that case poor running is usually due to poor contact between the switchblade and the main rail. Firstly check that the internal spring is still intact, you can buy spares to replace them if broken. if the springs are still operating and throwing the point then check for dirt between the switchblade and main rail as this is usually the cause of poor running. You can clean between them with a nail file or small file but support the other side of the switchblade with something like flat screwdriver so that you don't damage or distort it.

[Pete the Elaner]

I had a similar problem with my last layout. I removed the springs because I was using Tortoise motors. There worked perfectly until I ballasted then I found the wire which throws the point was not quite stiff enough to hold the blade over. Cleaning & lubricating part of the point helped a little but I still found that I needed stiffer wire.

 

If you plan to motorise the points anyway then tortoises is 1 way to go. I found their size an issue.

Seep do a motor with a spring. I am not sure how this compares with the point's own one though.

Both of these are just really ways around the issue. It sounds like your glue is making the point blades stickier than they should be, so ideally you need to clean this away. Since your glue is water based, maybe you can scrape it away & clean the area with a little hot soapy water.

As usual, the more patient you are with this, the better your end result is likely to be.

[newbryford]

 

If you plan to motorise the points anyway then tortoises is 1 way to go. I found their size an issue.

 

 

DCCconcepts Cobalt motors are smaller than a Tortoise. (edit: about 80% the size of a Tortoise)

 

Like a Tortoise, they have built in switches that are suitable for frog switching.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[DCB]

Some blades don't have little tags which bear on the underside of the stock rails.  They seem to be points with plastic springs instead of spring wire and I found them to be entirely useless. Peco said the tags are un necessary when we rang them, but thats not what I found. They seemed to have  deleted a few years ago but they may well be back. I hope so as I won't be buying any without them.

The little tags sometimes need bending up if they are present but I have been using electrofrog points as supplied straight out of the box for 30 odd years and almost all the 30 year old ones are still in use, it's the later ones I had to replace.

[BR60103]

If you have just ballasted there is probably some stuff on the sides of the rails or in the place where the tiebar moves or in ...

 

You need to take a pointed tool and poke away anything that is between the point and the rail. It may help to scrape the touching sides of the rails; I use a long wooden sleeper for this. It may also help to take a microbrush (small minuscule cotton ball on plastic stick) with a mild solvent (water, alcohol) to the rail sides.

I used a new brand of ballast the last time and found a lot of it on the sides of the rails. I also found a rail joiner that has worked for years no longer making contact.

[RFS]

DCCconcepts Cobalt motors are smaller than a Tortoise. (about 80% smaller)

 

 

I think you mean Cobalt motors are 80% the size of Tortoises, not 80% smaller ...

 

If you do not modify the points to use a polarity switch you are still reliant on good contact between blade and stock rail.  But if you ballast and liberally spread diluted PVA then the glue can seep up into the blade pivot and prevent current passing through that to the frog. So the recommendation to use a polarity switch with Electrofrogs is especially important if you are ballasting and painting.

[newbryford]

I think you mean Cobalt motors are 80% the size of Tortoises, not 80% smaller ...

 

If you do not modify the points to use a polarity switch you are still reliant on good contact between blade and stock rail.  But if you ballast and liberally spread diluted PVA then the glue can seep up into the blade pivot and prevent current passing through that to the frog. So the recommendation to use a polarity switch with Electrofrogs is especially important if you are ballasting and painting.

 

Yes, thank you.

I realised the error of my wording later. Duly edited.

 

Cheers,

Mick