OOgaugeJaf Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Hi, I have an 8F bought about 6 years back. Loco drive. First time on the layout Saturday due to not having a layout to run on until now. Has anyone had an issue with all the wheels locking up solid. No side play or anything. The grease seems to have dried solid. Help/ advice appreciated. Thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted June 27, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2017 Maybe unscrew the motor retainer so the motor cog doesn't mesh with the cog on the wheels and then try forcing the wheels round to see if that is the issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Back a couple of steps before doing anything. Did the model run when you first had it (whether tested in a shop or by yourself)? Can you hear the motor humming when power is applied? If you cannot there may well be no power to the motor. Test using a multimeter for conduction between the driving wheels.either side. I'd not disturb the motor mountings other than as a last resort, as it is the old design of less than wonderful integrity. (very easy to strip the thread in the block taking out and replacing the screw that retains the combined worm cover and motor front clamp.) Try turning the rear protruding shaft of the motor gripped with a pair of pliers to see is movement is possible, and if it is then again try it briefly on track power. If it runs slowly, put a couple of drops of light oil in the base of the model on the axle gear, and with the model still upside down apply power. If that improves the running speed, then you have confirmation that it is just gummed up with dried lubricant, It may be necessary to remove the keeper plates and clean out as much dried lubricant residue as possible from the axles before adding a suitable plastics compatible grease or oil - your choice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
OOgaugeJaf Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Daft as it sounds I have never tested it from new so it may never have run but I assume storing in a poorly insulated loft room at my old house would not have helped. Got quite hot. Do you think WD40 would free the axles. Currently solid Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
OOgaugeJaf Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 By a way of update. Tested WD40 on one axle set and we have movement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) Argh, not fish oil, WD40 and model railways don't mix. I regularly maintain my loco chassis by a complete strip down, and on all moving surfaces whether gears, bearings, axles, or any rubbing faces such as crank pins, I add a very thin film of this;- https://www.align-trex.co.uk/tri-flow-grease-with-teflon-3oz-tf23004.html Edited June 29, 2017 by bike2steam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwich station Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Link doesn't connect to a website. Says it can't be displayed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted June 29, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2017 Link doesn't connect to a website. Says it can't be displayed. It does for me - but it's out of stock. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireline Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 By a way of update. Tested WD40 on one axle set and we have movement Use 3 in 1 oil in preference to WD 40. There is a chance your loco might survive the experience then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Link doesn't connect to a website. Says it can't be displayed. Try this then, I have a 2oz/50gr small tub that's nearly all used up, it's lasted me over 20 years ( I have over 100 locos in my collection), and it's helped to keep them in superb running condition. https://www.triflowlubricants.com/product/synthetic-grease Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Another caution against WD40: from evidence of damaged models it is not good with some plastics used in models, and if it gets on DC motors rapidly softens the brush carbons leading to very swift failure. The stuff 'migrates' by design.Don't even have it in the railway room so there's no chance of an accident... Strongly seconded: the suggestion of plastic's compatible greases. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black 5 Bear Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Singer sewing machines oil is a good quality lubricant, it doesn't seem to harm loco mechanisms, wheels, valve gear or plastics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I only use grease never oil, just in case of any possible ingress along the motor shaft. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Brit70053 Posted June 29, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2017 Use 3 in 1 oil in preference to WD 40. There is a chance your loco might survive the experience then. I'd counsel against using either of these on Model railway locomotives, WD40 for the reasons clearly stated above and 3 in 1 for similar reasons, plus it is far too thick for use on locos. I speak from costly experience early in my modelling days when 3 in 1 was the only lubricant readily available (or that anyone had ever heard of) in my locality. Its really worth the effort to source a specially developed lubricant to use on your models. Regards, John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
OOgaugeJaf Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Thanks for all the advice gents. I stripped the chassis from the body so that is safe and using very cautiously. First placing the wd40 in a tub and a syringe to locate on the axles after removing the base plate. 2 out 4 axles are now free. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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