43078shildoncountydurham Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Chaps, Just having my first go at rewheeling (gibson wheels) a steam loco (Hornby k1) into em gauge, using a GW wheel press which is mint, quartered ok, glued some extra plastic on it so the wheel would sit flat but still getting a wobble on one side, or and tapered the axles.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I always thought that any system that pushed a steel axle into a basic plastic wheel other than as an industrial operation was beyond dumb .There we are I have said it ............May the Gods adjudicate and smite me with their bolts of justice ...but its still dumb. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
£1.38 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 One common problem is that the wheel boss sticks out from the face of the wheels, so the full wheel face does not come in contact with the press. Using plastic or card packing between the outside face of the wheel and the wheel press should improve matters considerably. That way the press should press evenly on the full diameter of the wheel. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I have never managed to get anything pressed on straight ever. Tapered axles, countersunk wheel bosses, nothing works for me, if they don't wobble sideways they don't run true diametrically. Luckily Romford / Markits wheels screw to the axles and that I can cope with. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete55 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I always make sure the chamfer on the axle ends is increased from that as supplied, and I also twist a 6mm drill in the axle hole on the rear of the wheel (just spin it round once with your fingers) to knock the square off the hole corner. As you say you have packed the wheel press face with plastic to press on the tyre face.....can't see what you are doing wrong. Alfsboy...as for pressing steel into plastic being dumb....have you any useful suggestion? It is what we have. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 ....Alfsboy...as for pressing steel into plastic being dumb....have you any useful suggestion? It is what we have. ^^ This. What method do you think Hornby China are using for their steel axles inserted into plastic-centred driving wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43078shildoncountydurham Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Thanks guys, going to have another go Tuesday evening after work I will report back how it's gone... Craig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decauville1126 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I always lick the end of the axle just before pressing into the wheel - it helps to ease entry. And as has already been said, make sure there is a bit of chamfer evenly round the end of the axle. The George Watts wheel press tool is very good but you do need to take a few precautions with regards to what part of the wheel is making contact. In fact all the tools manufactured by George are well designed, and very good value for money. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 ^^ This. What method do you think Hornby China are using for their steel axles inserted into plastic-centred driving wheels? Its an industrial operation so can be jigged for mass production .Like I said . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Its an industrial operation so can be jigged for mass production .Like I said . So what is your suggestion for our non- industrial purposes? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 So what is your suggestion for our non- industrial purposes? There's a little compendium of helpful techniques in this thread: Ensure wheel face fully supported. Increase chamfer on axle end. Slightly bevel wheel seat opening. Apply a little lubricant. The sum effect of these is ensuring that the axle is offered perpendicular to the wheel, and that there is no swarf arising from the action of the axle entering the wheel seat to disturb the seating in perpendicularity or concentricity. It's entirely as I was shown to do the same process on the 'Stephen Poole' (SP) wheelsets using a Hamblings wheel press. There was one further refinement with these: don't screw in a crankpin until the axle is fitted (the action of screwing in a crankpin with the axle seat unsupported could deform the moulding slightly) and that may apply too. (The SP sets went on true with no trouble handled this way. Sadly, and despite the lovely tyre profile, the aluminium alloy tyres were a pain in the proverbial in operation...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 I find that Gibson wheels tend to have a moulding pip on the plastic centre that interferes with the correct fit of the tyre. This must be removed and then make sure the tyre is fitted correctly. To fit to the axle first chamfer the inside of the axle bore slightly as previously stated and lubricate (spit works well I find). I then press the wheel on by hand using a turning motion. once mounted in the frame fit the other wheel. Adjust the quartering (line up the spokes by eye) and set the back to back* and then spin each axle which will show up any wobble. If present rotate the offending wheel to the point of maximum out of true an gently lever with a screwdriver or similar. (Gibson's own instructions specify this method. - I have found it always works, but may take some time.) Final adjustments may be required after fitting coupling rods - do one axle at a time. It may help to part fit the second wheel and then press home gently (finger pressure on the wheel centres) when the quartering is correct. *Gibson wheels have fine flanges and require a fraction more than the usual 14.5mm. Set the check gauge to 15mm and all will be well. (Dimensions for 'scale' 00 - other gauges will need other settings of course.) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UMinion Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 ^^ This. What method do you think Hornby China are using for their steel axles inserted into plastic-centred driving wheels? You conveniently edited out the 'other than as an industrial operation' bit which was the most relevant part of the statement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Oddly the GW wheel press is the only way I've ever managed to get Gibson wheels to mount squarely first time! But there's a fair bit of fettling to be done first: To begin with, mount the crank-pins, making sure that they're orthogonal to the wheel-face, that the screw-head doesn't protrude at the back of the wheel, and that they can't unwind themselves - because if they can, then they cerainly will! Loctite is your friend here. Next, check the tyres are on firmly; this used to be a major source of annoyance with Gibson wheels, but recent production seems to have got it all sorted out. Then check for any moulding pips anywhere and smooth them right down. Again, this isn't as much of a problem now as it used to be. Next, check the length of the axle material supplied to ensure the correct back-to-back. This often means shortening the axle appropriately. At the same time I 'pip' the axle centre and 'break' the angle at the axle-end. I have a faithful old Unimat that I use for this, but breaking the angle can be done with nothing more complicated than a file and a hand-drill mounted in a vice. And then - and this is very important with Gibson wheels, I find - never take them off the axle again, as they'll never make such a firm bond if you do. Obviously this has implications for chassis design which you will need to take into account long before you get round to fitting the wheels. Hope this helps! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 You conveniently edited out the 'other than as an industrial operation' bit which was the most relevant part of the statement. I thought that was taken as read, given that it's Hornby? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43078shildoncountydurham Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Chaps, Done a second wheel better but still a bit wonky, had a read up and I gather I need the 3mm stop on the GW press? Anyhow a big thanks for all your help :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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