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Mercontrol - Point Control


BobM
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Hi Bob.

The little brass etched thingy that you are going to try to solder to the control wire isn't meant for that. It is for connecting the single universal point lever to a point, not for the wire in the tube from a lever frame. You just need to drill a 0.5 mm hole either just inside of the "pip" on the tie bar or through the top of the "pip" it's self. You don't need to solder anything at all. 

Go here:

 http://lytchettmanor.co.uk.websitebuilder.prositehosting.co.uk/lytchett-manor/mercontrol---point-control

There is a link to their hits and tips page on that page mate.

Regards Lez.

 

Hi Lezz...

Thanks for the info as  always.....

If I trim down the pip, this exposes a hole in the tie bar into which the bent wire could be slipped....do you think that if this was glued into position it would suffice, and be strong enough not to tear thorough the tie bar....?

Regards always...

Bob

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Hi Bob.

You don't need to glue it in at all mate. It should stay there all by itself. If you make a 90o bend in the end of the wire of around 5-10 mill sticking up and put it through the tie bar from underneath you can then snip off the excess or bend it back towards the tube and that should be good enough. Personally I would just make the bend with 5 mm over and just insert it from below and leave it at that so you can remove it if you need to change the point at any time, they do fail after all. 

If you want to do a belt and braces job then drill a 0.5 mm hole in the tie bar right next to and on the inside of the pip then you can either force a bit of wire insulation over both the wire and the pip or loop another bit of wire around both the wire and the pip and put a couple of twists on it and it should lock it in place.

Regards Lez.   

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Hi Bob.

You don't need to glue it in at all mate. It should stay there all by itself. If you make a 90o bend in the end of the wire of around 5-10 mill sticking up and put it through the tie bar from underneath you can then snip off the excess or bend it back towards the tube and that should be good enough. Personally I would just make the bend with 5 mm over and just insert it from below and leave it at that so you can remove it if you need to change the point at any time, they do fail after all. 

If you want to do a belt and braces job then drill a 0.5 mm hole in the tie bar right next to and on the inside of the pip then you can either force a bit of wire insulation over both the wire and the pip or loop another bit of wire around both the wire and the pip and put a couple of twists on it and it should lock it in place.

Regards Lez.   

Hi Lezz.....Will look forward to your advice (and everyone's postings on this subject), for which I am  eternally grateful....

The tie bar on a Peco 100 (00) is a very thin 'rod'.....I think the 'N' gauge has a wider tie bar....I have tested cutting down the pip right back to the bar and this does open up a hole into which the bent wire can be slipped, but I am hesitant that the wire will pull through...?  Is there a halfway house method in that if I trim the top off could I drill carefully down the centre, if my eyesight is good enough,,,,this would give a 'stronger' remaining pip to take the strain of the wire push / pull....?

 

Regards always.....

Bob

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Would it be easier with the turnout upside down?

 

Regards

 

Ian

Hi Ian

Thanks, sadly my points are down and wired up.....hence my predicament and all the brilliant advice being directed my way by all you kind guys...

Regards always...

Bob

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Hi Bob.

How are you getting on with it all now??

Regards Lez.

Hi Lezz...

Thanks for the posting.......due to a family health issue have been a bit preoccupied with other things at the moment, so work on the layout has sadly slowed and at times halted, but I did have a look at your kind method suggested......the peco 100 point tie bar is very thin, as is the pip.. did do a test on an old point, taking the head of the pip down and drilled down, I promptly came through the side of the pip on the first attempt.....!

 

Will try again  and hopefully take the drill through the centreline of the hole.....perhaps I am finding out that my eyesight is not as good as it should be for close work....

 

Hoping to have a day travelling the cushions on the SVR tomorrow and go into Footplate model shop for some sleeper grime or similar colour paint to begin the process of ballasting...

 

Regards always,

Bob

 

Thanks again,,,,,hope you are okay.....will keep all updated

Edited by BobM
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Hmm.

What were you using to drill it with Bob? I suggest that you file a flat on the top and use a pin vice with the drill bit as short as you can get it.

Regards Lez. 

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Hmm.

What were you using to drill it with Bob? I suggest that you file a flat on the top and use a pin vice with the drill bit as short as you can get it.

Regards Lez. 

HiLez...

 

I do have a pin vice and will try with this, when I recommence layout work, I was using an Archimedes drill, which probably was too strong for the job hence the problem...

Thanks as always for the advice.....

Regards always...

Bob

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Hi Guys.....

Please don't think ill of me or I've been ignoring you, as work has had to be placed on the backburner recently, I hope to recommence work on Cambrian Street combining the superb advice on here regarding the tube in wire point control soon.....things remain a bit fluid at the moment though....

 

Regards always...

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi Guys.....

Just to say that I hope to start the business on installing the tube in wire during the next couple of days (depends upon whether we get the predicted snowfall here at Bobbert towers) which'll precluded pressing outdoor work during the day.....

The postings on progress will be made on my Cambrian Street thread......

 

Regards always....

Bob

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Hi Guys.....

Just to say that I hope to start the business on installing the tube in wire during the next couple of days (depends upon whether we get the predicted snowfall here at Bobbert towers) which'll precluded pressing outdoor work during the day.....

The postings on progress will be made on my Cambrian Street thread......

 

Regards always....

Bob

 

I am looking forward to seeing this.

 

Most put the wiire in the tube, but I am sure that you haver your reasons :)

 

Regards

 

Ian :smile_mini:

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My mistake reminds me of a tale that an uncle used to recount to me....

working at Accles and Pollock way back in the dim and distant...(a tube company in the West Mids)......the Americans boasted that made the US made finer and smaller bore tubes than the UK....sending a sample to the UK to prove it ...Accles responded by sending a much finer bore tube back inserted within the US sample.....they never heard from the Americans again.....!

Happy days!

 

Bob

Edited by BobM
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Hi Guys....


 


As the next stage of work will be the installation of the cranks to get the wire to the lever frame, I have also taken a look at the pack of bits supplied......


therefore I make the following observations.....


 


1. Although it has been some time since I had any experience of the Mercontrol system and even then it was limited....I cannot recall the pieces being so fiddly to assemble and flimsy.. ....


2. I cannot recall the system requiring so much adapting and tidying....


3. There is no way that the wire that is supplied with the system will go through the drilled hole on the crank......the thinner gauge piano wire I've used as an alternative wouldn't go through any of the crank end holes without opening out........


4. I cannot recall the pieces of the system carrying so much sprue that requires removal prior to assembly.....


5. The central boss and pin requires so much cleaning up to make this look presentable and useable.......


 


I have preliminarily assembled one crank housing to see how it goes together and looks....first impressions were not 100% confident it'll do the business....if this proves to be too fiddly to install and not user friendly then I may ditch the system completely......concentrate on the modelling and throw the points by hand on this layout....we'll see....


 


Regards always...


Bob


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