GForce2010 Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I bought an old Lima HST and decided to give the motor a service.I recon this train is as old as I am and the Brushes crumbled when I took them out.On googling for some replacements I found several people replaces the motor core with a DC motor from a CD drive.These isn't much information about what motors are used so I had a search and found these.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-RC300-6000RPM-DC-1-5-9V-Micro-Motor-for-CD-DVD-Player-PK/332261451371?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649These were listed on the Hornby forum as being used by some people.The size seems good but I am concerned about the voltage rating. Its says it's up to 9V.I don't know what speed these run at compared to the old pancake motor and I believe I an limit the speed using the correct CV.What do people think?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Wasn't there an Australian company made a conversion kit which included a motor, first motion gear, back plate and securing screws along with an instruction sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mezzoman253 Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2018 Wasn't there an Australian company made a conversion kit which included a motor, first motion gear, back plate and securing screws along with an instruction sheet. Yes there was, called model torque or something similar. But it went out of business. There are threads on this and DVD motors somewhere on RMweb. But finding them may not be easy as the search facility isn't the best. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2018 Yes there was, called model torque or something similar. But it went out of business. There are threads on this and DVD motors somewhere on RMweb. But finding them may not be easy as the search facility isn't the best. Rob Yes it was called Model Torque, but the company went out of business, due to the death of the owner. So that avenue has gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GForce2010 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 I've found a different motor that would fit even better. Ordered all the bits I need so will see how things work out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest theonlydt Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I've found a different motor that would fit even better. Ordered all the bits I need so will see how things work out. Can you share what you intend to use, and where you're sourcing it from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I bought a couple from Susumotor in Finland. They were fairly cheap and posted to me very quickly. Their slimline motor went into a Lima King tender drive and transformed the running. My only comment is that, when fitting the motor, Susu's instructions suggest setting its position (and hence the mesh of the gears) by trial and error. This is because the shaft of the CD drawer motor is smaller than that on the Lima unit and so the outer bearing which positively locates the original doesn't work on the Susu. I reckoned I was too hamfisted to get this right whilst trying to position the motor on a blob of rapidly hardening superglue. I'm fortunate in having a lathe and turning up a new bearing from a scrap of brass was a 5 minute job. However, I've seen at least one article on the 'net where a couple of lengths of suitable tube from the K&S Metals rack at the local model shop did the job just as well. With the end of the shaft positively located the fitting is pretty much foolproof. Whilst you've got the drive apart it's probably worth having a look at the Lima gears through a magnifying glass and removing any moulding flash etc. from the teeth, and scraping/sanding/polishing off the moulding marks on the gear faces. Be very careful not to actually damage the teeth though. As for the voltage rating, don't forget that a model motor only sees 12V when the wick is turned up full. How many of us run our trains at full chat for more than a few seconds at a time, if at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Yes it was called Model Torque, but the company went out of business, due to the death of the owner. So that avenue has gone. Yeah, Inconsiderate people dying will do that. Also for those interested there is quite a bit on Youtube about retrofitting those CD motors to loco's. Khris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted January 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2018 www.diesel-trains.co.uk may have what you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andi4x4 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 This same conversion can be done to the Hornby Ringfield motors too. I have done a class 29 with some success. Finding a pinion which fits both the motor shaft and is a match for the Hornby gear teeth was a challenge. The motor I used was acquired from ebay and was rated at 9v, but, as I use DCC, I just adjusted the start-up and max voltage CV settings on the loco decoder. Plenty on YouTube showing this conversion to both Hornby and Lima motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 (edited) I have several Lima diesels converted with diesel-trains motor kits and so far they work very well with a much smoother slow speed performance than the original pancakes. They have better and smoother starting than the Hornby can motors in their single bogie drive versions of Lima models. It is also a good idea to service the gear train of the Lima drive to give smoother and quieter running. I am currently fitting a CD motor scavenged from an old drive to a Hornby Class 25 using the original pinion gear from the Hornby pancake motor. the shaft of the CD motor is smaller diameter but I got round that by putting a heat shrink tube over the shaft. see https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&qpvt=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&view=detail&mid=4D20ACD6E32F295868464D20ACD6E32F29586846&FORM=VRDGAR Edited January 4, 2018 by davetheroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium mezzoman253 Posted January 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2018 A good place to start. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81E Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) I am developing a motor mounting ring to hold a CD type re-motoring kit I bought of ebay The initial test pring showed that the motor was held firmly enough not to need glue. Since then I have added the two securing lugs and ordered a print. Hopefully the holes will line up so the replacement motor will be a simple screw down fit using the original motor back-plate screws I will post more if it works! Also can anyone tell me what CV settings I will need to reduce the voltage on my DCC chip? Edited September 21, 2018 by 81E 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) I tried a Susimotor in a Hornby ringfield housing and it fouled the intermediate gear shaft which intruded into the housing, so it was binned as a project and a new ringfield sourced in lieu. Be aware some of these DVD motors can be as low as 3-6v rated. @81E just reduce CV5 matching pro-rata CV6 (V-max and V-mid). It doesn’t reduce the voltage, just limits what the decoder can apply to the motor. Rob Edited September 22, 2018 by RAFHAAA96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81E Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) I am developing a motor mounting ring to hold a CD type re-motoring kit I bought of ebay The initial test pring showed that the motor was held firmly enough not to need glue. Since then I have added the two securing lugs and ordered a print. Hopefully the holes will line up so the replacement motor will be a simple screw down fit using the original motor back-plate screws I will post more if it works! Also can anyone tell me what CV settings I will need to reduce the voltage on my DCC chip? The 3D print arrived yesterday and it works perfectly in the 94XX so I've put it up for sale thought I've yet to try one in any other LIMA loco https://www.shapeways.com/product/MZ9XRHSGD/motor-mounting-ring-lima Edited October 4, 2018 by 81E 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Not having your excellent 3-D printed adaptor to hand I had to use a bit of cardboard tube from Lidl grocery department to mount the motor in my Hornby Ringfield HST. Words and pictures here http://myweb.cytanet.com.cy/honnor/page19.html Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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