RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted January 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2018 I thought I'd put a picture up in this area as I know not everyone reads rambling blogs (like mine) I recently purchased a Wanhao duplicator 7 resin DLP printer and I printed out this 4mm yard crane I'd modeled up. It is only 64mm tall to the top of the jib and is a ridiculously fine structure. Who says 3D printers can't do detail. David 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 What is the origin of the crane? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted January 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2018 What is the origin of the crane? Gordon A A spool of plastic/resin? Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted January 7, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2018 The crane was made by the Chatteris Engineering company for the Great Eastern Railway. They were common in GER goods sheds and yards. There is on preserved in the station yard at Clare. This was printed using Wanhao clear resin on a D7 1.4 running nanodlp on a Raspberry Pi. So far I have been very pleased with the quality of the prints I have been getting off the machine. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) What set up is required when you first open the box? I have been interested in this printer for a while but my biggest issue is space as I'm so cramped. Although it doesn't take much up I gather I need a UV curer and a bucket for alcohol and this is an off put. Again for space. any info would be appreciated. Also if you have any experience with Shapeways FUD how comparable is it? Also does it use the same material for supports or a different one? I know these 20 questions can be annoying but if you can help I'd be appreciative. Crane looks good for sure. Edited March 18, 2018 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted March 18, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2018 What set up is required when you first open the box? I have been interested in this printer for a while but my biggest issue is space as I'm so cramped. Although it doesn't take much up I gather I need a UV curer and a bucket for alcohol and this is an off put. Again for space. any info would be appreciated. Also if you have any experience with Shapeways FUD how comparable is it? Also does it use the same material for supports or a different one? I know these 20 questions can be annoying but if you can help I'd be appreciative. Crane looks good for sure. Hi Knuckles The printer needed very little set up. Mechanically all you have to do is slide on the build platform and level it which is very straight-forward. I chose to run my Wanhao through a Raspberry Pi using NanoDLP rather than direct from my PC. It isn't too tricky to set up and there are some decent walk-throughs on the net. The printer itself is very small taking up only 20cmx20cm on the bench. I only have a space about 2x1 on my bench and that is big enough to clean up on. I just have a couple lunch boxes which I have a cm of IPA in the bottom of to clean the parts. I made myself a little UV curing box out of an ice-cream container and a 5m strip of UV LED lights off EBay. I've not used Shapeways myself but have seen the quality of the output from a couple of parts my friends have had printed by them. I'm not keen on the texture of FUD much prefering the resin output. The printer only uses a single material at a time, you just have a bottle of UV curing resin, Most users seem to just leave the resin in the printer between jobs, if you are printing something every few days it isn't a problem just to leave it in the printer. I recently produced a chimney and dome for a 4mm Irish narrow gauge loco for a friend. They came out ok but I had some trouble getting the detail of the rivets on the smokebox door. I tried a little test piece this morning ahead of a project I'm I working on. This was intended to be a guide of what I could do to make parts for a girder bridge. I think the little missing bits were caused because I let the resin run too low. No problem with the 20 questions, I know I wanted some reassurance before parting with the money! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) Ok many thanks. That helps a lot. Test print looks fine to me. How big is it? Edited March 19, 2018 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted March 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2018 Ok many thanks. That helps a lot. Test print looks fine to me. How big is it? that little test print is 22mmx20mm David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdr Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) looking to upgrade to a resin printer from my fla prusa clone, what is the largest print you can produce on your printer. Just found the spec 120, 68, 200. Edited March 20, 2018 by rdr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 that little test print is 22mmx20mm David In that case I'm going to consider buying one some point for sure. Does it come with software to get going after unboxing? I only have experience with the Automaker my Robox Dual uses as default. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted March 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2018 The software needed is all available free. The printer can either be connected direct to a PC where it effectively appears as 'another screen'. However this can cause issues if your PC hibernates or tries to do a windows update during a print. Wanhoa sell a control box which means that you can do it via that, but many people use Nanodlp which is free and runs on a Raspberry Pi. see https://www.nanodlp.com/ The Pi and a case will cost a lot less that the Wanhoa box and it is pretty easy to set up. The only bit of software I've used is flashprint http://www.flashforge.com/support-center/flashprint-support/ So you draw up you model in whatever CAD software you like, export an STL file which you can import into FrashPrint to generate and arrange the support structure for the printed version. Then you export a new STL file which you copy up to the website running nanodlp on a Pi selecting a 'resin profile' which determines things like the layer height and cure time. The you just set the printer going and you don't need to worry about what your PC does. The software side sounds scarier that it is, there is a preconfigured rasperry pi installation which just needs downloading onto the SD card in the Pi using a bit of free windows software. You have to temporarily hook up the wanhoa to the PC to put a slightly different firmware version on . There is a complete walk-through guide available at https://3dprinterwiki.info/d7/easy-nanodlp-install-option/ If you want a chat about it drop me an PM and I'll give you my number. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) Ok many thanks. I really appreciate all that a lot, the info and the 'phone offer. I will remember this for the future if I do buy one as I certainly am thinking of doing so. I'm a fan of my Robox Dual for what it does and am convinced I made the right choice. Could sing its praises all day, however... I want a resin printer for these higher detailed prints. Certainly based on the photographs I have seen on line and your test print above I would say it looks better than Shapeways FUD in some cases, and as the printer is less than £500 it would save me money in the long run if I wasn't always purchasing my own loco bodies. It would also provide for some items good quality to sell items direct. This isn't a case of comparing which printer is better. Rather they both good but designed for different things. The Replicator won't print Nylon12 or PETG or ABS for example so mine would be better there but mine won't print resin and what it does print won't be as fine as the Replicator. This interest of mine isn't about greed either. I have goals to achieve. Interested in the Stepcraft CNC machine too! Edited March 20, 2018 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y_Rail Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 David amazing prints and crane!!! Mind if i ask you a few specific questions on the D7? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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